Something’s fishy in the American diet these days. And according to nutritionists, it’s a good thing. Fish is low in calories, sodium and cholesterol, and high in vitamins, minerals and proteins. It comes in a variety of shapes, sizes and flavors, and may be prepared as an appetizer, salad, entree or soup. It can be served chilled, baked, fried, grilled, stewed or microwaved. Versatile, nutritious, delicious, fish is undoubtably the food of the 1990s.

So suggests award-winning author Carol Cutler in her newest cookbook “Catch of the Day,” a collection of more than 100 fish recipes, many of which were developed for this Consumer Reports publication. Whether using shrimp, whitefish, smelts, oysters, squid, or flatfish, Cutler has created recipes that are practical and unusual. She also considers the limited amount of time most people have to prepare meals after a busy work day, so nearly all of the dishes are quick and easy to make.

For those who are less-experienced in the preparation of fish, Cutler offers an introductory section on general information about buying, storing, cleaning, and preparing fish. Particularly useful are the graphics that depict proper dressing and filleting of whole fish.

“Catch of the Day” presents some fairly basic approaches to cooking and flavoring fish. Some taste combinations such as ginger and shrimp, jalapeno and smelts, grapefruit and bluefish may strike readers as enticing. But the real treats of Cutler’s culinary collection are the unusual recipes, ones that challenge our sense of the limitations of fish.

For instance, we might think of making a pasta dish with a tomato sauce and mussels, but how many of us would think of Mussel Pizza? For those who have a daring palate, other innovative recipes include Bluefish Pie, Monkfish and Sprouts on Pita, and Fruity Flounder Salad.

Cutler’s final chapter is devoted to microwave cooking. “Seafood and the microwave were made for each other,” she writes, but then only includes six easy-to-prepare (but rather unspectacular) recipes in the section.

The information and recipes that Cutler has collected are sound and basic, making this cookbook a worthwhile purchase, especially for newcomers to the fish market.

The attractive appearance and the fragrant taste of this dish belies its ease of preparation. The fennel sauce can be prepared the day before and refrigerated.

Serve with couscous or brown rice. Either grain is a nice contrast to the pungency of the sauce.

Salmon in Fennel Sauce

1 fennel bulb (1 to 1 1/4 pounds) 3 tablespoons of milk 1 tablespoon of heavy cream or half-and-half

1/2 to 1 teaspoon orange liquer, preferably Grand Marnier 6 salmon steaks, each 4 to 5 ounces Oil Salt and pepper 6 parsley sprigs (optional)

Remove the stalks from the fennel bulb and cut off and reserve the small feathery leaves. Slice the bulb into quarters and in a pot of boiling water cook until very tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain well, then place in the food processor. (If using a blender, chop parboiled fennel by hand and puree it with liquid ingredients.) Pulse processor for a few seconds to coarsely chop fennel. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then, with the motor running, add the milk, cream, and 1/2 teaspoon of the orange liquer, if desired. Pour the sauce (about 2 cups) into a small pot.

Select one or two heavy skillets, preferably nonstick, that hold salmon steaks snugly. Put the skillet over high heat and rub a drop of oil over its surface with a paper towel. Once the skillet is quite hot, put in the salmon and immediately reduce the heat to medium, and cover. Cook the fish for about 10 minutes, depending on its thickness. To make sure it is done, insert the tip of a small sharp knife into the flesh near the bone — it should be flaky and have a fairly uniform color. Transfer the steaks to a warm dish and remove the skin.

Reheat the sauce, spoon about 3 tablespoons of it into the center of warm serving dishes, then place a salmon steak on top of the sauce. Decorate the center of each steak with the reserved fennel leaves or parsley sprigs.