Orono cook has taste for hasenpfeffer

It may be an image of a cunning, pink-nosed little Easter bunny or the memory of Bugs asking, “What’s up, doc?” but whatever the reason, rabbit is not a particularly popular dish in America. It is quite a different thing in Germany, where rabbit is the main ingredient in the old German entree hasenpfeffer.

Rainer Suletzki of Orono often ate the spicy rabbit dish while he was growing up in the north German town of Flensburg, located 100 miles north of Hamburg near the Danish border.

“It would be like pot roast for Americans,” said Suletzki, the regional manager for a German airline. “Today, it’s a delicacy for Germans, except for those who raise their own rabbits, for whom it’s a staple.”

Rabbit is a lean, white meat, Suletzki explained.

“It’s a little drier than chicken,” he said. “But you can compensate with gravy, dumplings and red cabbage.”

Suletzki said that many Germans in villages and the countryside raise rabbits. That’s because the animals take up little space, reproduce rapidly and eat carrots, lettuce leaves and clover from the garden. Those in cities must go to supermarkets for rabbit.

Rabbit has become more accessible to the American chef as well.

“Not too long ago, rabbit was difficult to find,” Suletzki said. “Now local rabbit growers are allowed to sell rabbits to local supermarkets, who stock them in the frozen food section.”

Suletzki’s work takes him to areas as far-flung as Toronto, New York City, Miami and the Caribbean. When he’s home, he likes to cook, although he said his wife, Heidemarie, is a far better cook.

“I like to experiment with certain recipes I read, and improve them to my family’s taste,” he said.

Suletzki has gotten positive reactions from Americans to whom he has served hasenpfeffer.

“They’ve been very surprised to find that rabbit can be a very tasty and very satisfying meal,” he said. “Presented correctly, it can be a very elegant meal too.”

Hasenpfeffer 4 hind rabbit legs (about 2.2 pounds) 1 1/2 ounces flour 5 1/2 ounces lean bacon (European style) 5 1/2 ounces small onions Fresh garlic 8 ounces beef bouillion 4 ounces red wine 1 ounce brandy 1 dash of dried rosemary leaves (ground) 1 dash of ground thyme 1 small bay leaf 2 teaspoons red currant jelly 2 tablespoons lemon juice Salt Black pepper

Rinse meat thoroughly and wipe off with paper towel. Season with salt and preferably freshly ground black pepper. Turn the meat in flour, so that it is covered with flour evenly.

Cut the bacon in long, thin strips and roast in pot. Take out bacon and set aside, leaving extracted hot fat in pot. Place meat in hot fat and brown evenly over medium heat.

Peel onions and garlic and cut in small pieces. Add to meat and glaze golden brown while stirring.

After that, add beef broth (bouillion) and red wine. Stir thoroughly and add brandy.

In addition, mix the rosemary leaves, thyme and the bay leaf as well as 1/2 teaspoon of pepper and pour into pot. Add the red currant jelly and mix sauce thoroughly. Close lid and simmer over low heat about one hour.

Return the bacon and round off the taste with pepper and lemon juice. In case the sauce has evaporated somewhat, beef broth and red wine may be added.

Hasenpfeffer should be served with red cabbage and potato dumplings. A hearty red burgundy will enhance the meal.

Note: Lean double-smoked bacon can be bought at smokehouses. Beef jerky can be substituted to supply a smoky flavor.