Right amount of water important for holiday plants

Your Maine Garden

In all but the most modern super-insulated homes, where high humidity can actually be a problem in winter, most of us live in a veritable desert of dry air during the cold months. And that includes our house plants and such greenery as we might drag in for the holidays. Here are some suggestions for helping your plants make the most of a difficult situation.

Beginning with the Christmas tree, you might consider cutting 1/2-inch off the butt just before inserting it in the stand. This will expose fresh vascular tissue which is better able to take up water. Try to minimize the time between making the cut and filling the stand’s water reservoir.

With Maine’s traditional balsam fir, I have found that daily water checks are necessary to keep up with this thirsty tree’s demands. Even with the most diligent watering regime, however, your Christmas tree is on a one-way trip to dessication. Needle drop is one annoying manifestation of this and a tree in flames is the most drastic possible outcome. If you keep your tree up for more than two weeks, be especially careful not to leave it lit and unattended or to otherwise expose it to the risk of fire.

Evergreen boughs used for centerpieces and garlands should be given a water supply if at all possible. If your arrangement begins to dry out, revive it by misting or sprinkling with water, placing it in a plastic bag and removing it to some place cool for a few hours. At night you might consider putting a piece of plastic (a dry cleaner bag works nicely) over any arrangement or plant that needs a break from the dry air. Incidentally, this little trick often makes the difference between successful blooming and disappointing bud drop in such touchy house plants as gardenias.

Poinsettias have come a long way in terms of their adaptability to the home. Modern varieties have much longer blooming periods and remain short and compact, as we would like them to. Still, there are limits to what a plant can endure. Don’t leave your poinsettia in the middle of a dark, dining room table throughout the holidays. Give it a sunny window sill as often as possible. Turn the plant frequently to expose all sides to the much needed sunlight.

Poinsettias are fairly susceptible to root problems induced by overwatering. To prevent this, let the soil go a little dry on top between waterings. Avoid frequent light waterings in favor of occasional irrigation to the leach point (water coming out the bottom of the pot.)

Feed poinsettias lightly after a week or so. Use any houseplant fertilizer at half strength, and repeat ever 10-14 days while the plants are in bloom.

If your poinsettia begins to look stressed, drops its lower leaves or droops, try reviving it with a little humidity break using the mist and plastic bag trick. This is often especially successful if practiced overnight.

If you plan on keeping your poinsettia over for another year, cut it back to a few main branches after bloom. Put the plant in a cool room with good light and water sparingly. When new growth is seen, repot and grow on at room temperature, pinching to promote bushiness. Remember that poinsettias need short days in September and October to induce flowering. Artificial light in the evenings has spelled failure for many would be home poinsettia growers.

With all indoor plants, be especially aware of where the hot spots are in your home. Radiators, hot air registers and woodstoves are plant killers for the most part.

Have a safe and colorful holiday season. If you’re like me, you’ll start thinking about seed catalogs and getting your hands dirty shortly thereafter. That should make winter a little easier to live through.

Michael Zuck of Bangor is a horticulturist and the NEWS garden columnist. Send inquiries to him at 2106 Essex St., Bangor, Maine, 04401.