A 40-year veteran of the plant business in Maine once told me that only one type of horticulture had been consistently profitable for him, unaffected by changes in people’s tastes or in the local economy. Herbs, I learned, have a perennial appeal to almost every gardener whether they keep just a few pots on the windowsill, or have an elaborate herb garden full of paths and beds, edged in lavender and wormwood. It seems that most plant lovers are in the market for at least one more herb.

To confirm this piece of wisdom, my wife and I paid a visit to what is surely the herb mecca of New England, the venerable estate of Connecticut’s lifelong herbalist, Adelma Simmons. Caprilands is the name Simmons chose for her early 18th century farmstead, now transformed into a fascinating series of herb gardens.

I have found that it is best not to know too much about any tourist attraction, horticultural or otherwise, when visiting it for the first time. So, all I knew of Caprilands was that they grew a lot of herbs there, and that it was best to make reservations in advance (203-742-7244). Without meaning to spoil the experience for future visitors, here are some of my lasting impressions of last October’s herbal encounter.

One parks at the roadside and leaves the 20th century behind almost immediately, crunching along a gravel path towards the gardens which are laid out behind the imposing two-story farmhouse. The first familiar plant I noticed was an enormous potted lemon verbena, 20 years old if it was a day, trunk as thick as a man’s arm and twisted with age.

All visitors to the garden are greeted by a welcoming committee of several dozen fancy-plumed pigeons which perch and flutter in and around their multileveled domicile. The birds are most unconcerned with humanity, and their dove-like manners give an air of tranquility to what is surely a very tranquil piece of earth.

Past the pigeons one is confronted with a number of choices, as the grounds are divided into 31 different gardens, each with its own theme more or less related to herbalism. It is fascinating to see how an open field can be transformed into many individual “rooms,” simply by altering the plant material and garden design.

Largest and newest of the plantings is the Identification Garden, and it is a good place to start, since most of the common and many uncommon herbs are plainly displayed and labeled. I must confess that few of the 30 additional garden beds have stuck in my mind, although I remember thinking very appreciative thoughts about the theme of each, when it was presented to me. It is the overall effect of the gardens that remains in my mind, a rather ancient feeling, pervaded with a southern New England atmosphere not unlike the feeling at Old Sturbridge Village.

Eighteen dollars is the price per person for the complete Caprilands experience (gardens and shops can be visited for free) which includes a one hour lecture/demonstration (now infrequently given by Simmons herself, age 90-plus) and a sumptuous herbal luncheon. Approximately 30 people were at Caprilands on the misty, gray October Tuesday of our visit, and we were regaled with a thorough demonstration of dried flower wreath making. Lunch consisted of an excellent bean soup, herb bread, seasoned salmon puff (loaf), and an elegantly garnished salad with herb dressing. Water pitchers each containing a sprig of lemon verbena graced each table.

Gift shops, a book shop, and greenhouse complete the offerings at Caprilands, which is located at 534 Silver St., Coventry, Conn. 06238. Call or write for their descriptive brochure, which includes map and directions. Caprilands is open every day except New Year’s, Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Michael Zuck of Bangor is a horticulturist and the NEWS garden columnist. Send inquiries to him at 2106 Essex St., Bangor, Maine, 04401.