Schussing in paradise > Extinct volcano a skier’s dream

Beautiful Hawaii, land of sun, warm breezes, palm trees, sand, surf, hula dancers and skiing. What? Skiing?

For an exotic skiing experience, how about schussing on Mauna Kea, an extinct volcano on the Big Island of Hawaii? Now that’s something to write home about.

The world’s tallest mountain, Mauna Kea rises 19,000 feet from the ocean floor to sea level, and an additional 13,796 feet above ground.

With almost 100 square miles of skiable terrain, the “White Mountain” offers springlike conditions that the locals call sugar corn or “pineapple powder.” This is some of the world’s highest level skiing.

Volcanic cones called puus, five-mile-plus runs with between 2,500 and 4,500 feet of vertical drop, are just the start of the delights you can experience. The mountaintop moonscape panorama is unforgettable, and the view of the lush tropical forests below, the majestic ocean and Haleakala volcano on neighboring Maui island are unrivaled anywhere.

Mauna Kea is not, however, maintained as a ski area; it is a national science reserve, and for that reason, skiers might encounter obstacles such as unmarked and exposed rocks. Access to the area is by four-wheel drive vehicles. After reaching the top of the run, you are led down the slopes by ski patrol guides. When you finish the run, there’s another drive to the top. There are portable toilets, but no warming huts.

Typical of Hawaii’s mountainous areas, fast-moving and unexpected weather changes often occur. This skiing is for intermediates and experts only. The faint of heart would do well to head for a nearby beach instead.

The high altitude of Mauna Kea means that there is 38 percent less oxygen in the air. Before tackling this alien environment, make sure to check with your physician. If your doctor is a skier, expect him or her to volunteer to accompany you — for your health’s sake only, of course.

In a good snow year, ski season runs from November to July. Mauna Kea Ski Corp. spokesman Chris Langan says that February and March are predictably snowy, with other months more variable.

The Mauna Kea Ski Meet in mid-February; the Hawaii Ski Cup Open, Pele’s Cup and Hawaii Ski Cup in March; the Paniolo Ski Meet in April; the Pele Cup in May; the King Kamehameha Ski Meet in June; and the Pole and Run ski race in July attest to an active season. In big snow years, the King Kamehameha Holua Ski, held in June, features holua sleds and snow boards. Pele’s Cup (named for the fiery-tempered volcano goddess, Pele) is the world’s highest cross-country ski race.

The average midday temperature on Mauna Kea is 45 degrees, but it can dip as low as -10 degrees, so be sure to dress warmly. Most skiers wear jeans over long underwear, or sweats. Dark sunglasses and good sunscreen are essential.

There’s no need to haul your skis halfway across the world; equipment rentals as well as jackets, gloves and hats are available. New skis are purchased every year.

And you can’t just rent a vehicle and drive up the mountain alone. Rugged conditions mean that only supervised skiing is allowed.

Day tours for skiers 14 years and older are available for $150 or $250 per person, depending on the course. Lunch is included, ski rentals are extra. For information or group tour reservations, contact the Mauna Kea Ski Corp., P.O. Box 1954, Kamuela, Hawaii 96743, telephone (808) 885-4188.

Paula Hastings, a sometimes publisher, is a business consultant and photojournalist who loves coming home to Cape Cod, Mass.