STURBRIDGE, Mass. — “There’ll be no milk until spring,” the woman said. Young Johnny and his family were nonplused; such a possibility seemed unthinkable.

“But what about the cows outside?” Johnny asked, challenging the verdict.

The woman, dressed in a floor-length, flowered dress and starched white cap, said simply, “The cows are dry at this time of year.”

“I thought cows always give milk,” said Johnny’s mother.

“Oh, no,” said the woman, an interpreter speaking from the era 150 years ago. “Cows give milk after they give birth, just like people. They are bred in summer, and we dry them off in winter for the last couple of months of their pregnancy.

“Usually, a village farmer keeps a cow milking all the time by breeding his animals at different times. So if we really need milk, we can get some from him. But we don’t use much milk. We don’t drink it. We use it in cooking mostly,” the woman said.

“In spring and fall,” she continued, “we make butter from the milk, and in the hot summer we make cheese.” Asked why things were done that way, she said, “To make butter, we have to let the milk sit for two days for the cream to rise to the top. In hot weather, the milk spoils too quickly for that, so we make cheese right away.”

“If there’s no milk to drink in the winter, what do kids drink?” Johnny asked.

“Water, hard cider and beer,” the woman answered.

“Beer?” Johnny said in shock.

Johnny’s family left the Freeman Farmhouse, walked through the barn, past the pig sty and cow and sheep pastures, and the now-dormant gardens.

Earlier they had stopped at the Knight Store and had seen goods typical for an 1830s farming village. Barrels of smoked herring, molasses, paint pigments, rum and gin were cause for many questions for Johnny and his parents. The interpreter playing the shopkeeper’s wife asked if they had brought any feathers, rags or ashes to trade. She showed them a selection of shoes, all made “straight” with no right or left foot. “They’re in fashion now,” she said. “They’re very comfortable, too. Your foot will shape the leather quickly. And over here is leather you can buy to repair your shoes yourself.”

“Ugh,” uttered Johnny’s mother.

Old Sturbridge Village, with its 200 acres of farmland, ponds and buildings, draws hundreds of thousands of families every year from all over this country and other nations. And while it’s certainly not the only game in this small but thriving New England town, it’s the well-oiled machine that keeps the area busy with visitors.

Although it represents a somewhat unsophisticated old burg, Old Sturbridge Village is no country bumpkin. There are fine exhibits (including one of period clocks) and a knockout gift shop.

The 1830s may have been a simpler era, but they were in many respects hard times. Knowledge of modern medicine was in the distant future. Cleanliness was not yet considered essential for health. Wet nappies were hung to dry, but not washed unless soiled. Townsfolk frequently died from infections which today would be cured with a few antibiotic pills. Baths were rare: One typical villager said he’d gone 38 years without ever getting the whole of himself wet at the same time. Soap was homemade from waste lard and lye.

At the schoolhouse, an interpreter addressing young visitors feigned ignorance. “You mean you go to school in October and November? What about April and May? You do? Strange people.

“There’s planting to do in the spring and harvesting in the fall. The children have to be at home helping out. No time for school then,” he stated flatly.

Visits to the village in winter give Mom, Dad and the urchins a whole new way to look at the past. Unlike today, the lives of the early 19th century townspeople were heavily controlled by the change of seasons.

Housewives in the 1830s were catching up on their sewing: A dozen shirts for Pa, hemming diaper material used for tablecloths, towels, and, yes, nappies. The carding mill continues to process wool shorn last spring, returning ready-to-spin rolls to the women who make shawls, mittens and coverlets.

Farmers are busy making fenceposts and threshing grain. Oxen have finished their plowing chores for the year and pull logs from the woods to the sawmill or the barnyard. The cider mill has already produced its yearly quota and stands idle. Horse-drawn wagon and sleigh rides are popular with visitors.

Special-event programs, often carrying extra fees and requiring registration, are held all year. In winter, adults can try their hands at blacksmithing, tinsmithing and spinning on Saturdays from January through March. People age 14 and older can feast on a hearth-cooked meal they helped prepare, most Saturdays November through March.

Sturbridge makes a fine family weekend outing. While it is possible to spend just a day there, families can, and frequently do, enjoy a second half- or full-day’s visit to experience the village in more depth. A Friday evening arrival allows a good night’s sleep, all day Saturday and Sunday morning at the village, and Sunday afternoon exploring the rest of the town.

There is a wide variety of fine shops in Sturbridge. Most cater to the country style: furniture, candles, baskets and textiles. But there are also factory outlets, charming shops for children’s clothing, gifts, Christmas ornaments, antiques, pottery, brass items, rare books, art, crafts and collectibles.

Among the other sights in the area, St. Anne’s Shrine is an inspiring one, with its votive sanctuaries, Way (Stations) of the Cross, devotional works of sculpture and a mighty crucifix accessed by holy stairs on which the approaching faithful say prayers. A gift shop also houses displays.

Accommodations and dining: You’ll want to start the day with a family-friendly, get-up-and-go breakfast. At The Sunburst, there are kids’ books, newspapers for the parents and rib-sticking food including homemade muffins.

While at Old Sturbridge Village, have lunch at the Bullard Tavern, where traditional beans, hot dogs and brown bread, clam chowder and chicken pie are supplemented by more contemporary victuals, served cafeteria and buffet style.

Although there are several excellent newer restaurants in town, family dinners are great at two vintage establishments, which continue to capture the feeling of antiquity to be experienced all weekend. Founded in 1771, The Publick House oozes charm, with menus and placemates printed with fascinating tidbits of history, and the kitchen serving up historic and contemporary dishes. The bread baskets are extraordinary, and guests can stop by the bake shop on the way out to purchase some of the many loaves sampled earlier.

The Salem Cross Inn in nearby West Brookfield dates back to 1705 and serves hearty traditional fare. Every Friday night January through mid-April, the Salem Cross offers a 1700 Fireplace Roast featuring prime rib cooked at a huge open fieldstone hearth with the country’s only known operating (circa 1700) roasting jack. Sleigh and hayrides are part of the festivities.

There are any number of inns, bed and breakfasts and motor lodges in Sturbridge. Many, such as the village’s 18th century Oliver Wight House, offer uncommon historic atmosphere, to the delight of Mom and Dad. But for the enjoyment of the whole family, the 241 Sturbridge Host Hotel has an indoor atrium pool with jacuzzi, health and fitness center cum sauna, video game room, VCR and video rentals, working fireplaces in rooms and restaurants. Granted, it isn’t antique, but it sure is fun.

Directions: Take the Massachusetts Turnpike to exit 9, follow the signs for Sturbridge. About one hour from Boston, Providence and Hartford.

Old Sturbridge Village: Winter hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Summer hours: daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tickets are $15 for adults, $7 for children to 15 years, under 6 free. Second consecutive day free. Free parking. For information about special programs contact Special Events Office, (508) 347-3362.

Lodging costs: Sturbridge Host Hotel’s king-size rooms for two adults, up to two children, $130 and up per night. Phone (508) 582-3232.

Dining: Salem Cross Inn (508) 867-2345. 1700 Fireplace Roast reservations $38.95 each, including tax and gratuities, hay/sleigh ride and historical tour of the inn’s antiquities. Publick House 1-800-PUBLICK.

For more information: Contact the Worcester County Convention & Visitors Bureau, 33 Waldo St., Worcester, Mass. 01608, telephone (508) 753-2920.

Paula Hastings, a sometimes publisher, is a business consultant and photojournalist who loves to come home to Cape Cod.