The Ultimate High> The ballooning world’s premier event celebrates its 25th birthday this October in Albuquerque

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If you’ve ever tried hot-air ballooning, chances are you’re hooked. And, if you’re hooked, chances are you won’t be satisfied until you experience hot-air ballooning’s ultimate high.

Known simply as “Albuquerque” to the ballooning community, the Kodak Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta is the premier ballooning event in the world. What began 25 years ago with 13 balloons in the parking lot of an Albuquerque shopping center, now draws more participants and spectators than any other ballooning event in the world. Already 850 balloons (a whopping 20 percent of the total number of balloons known worldwide) and 1,200 pilots representing 16 foreign countries have signed up for the 1996 version, set to run Oct. 5-13 at the 77-acre Fiesta Park northwest of town. Throw in at least 1.3 million spectators, and you have to admit that the Albuquerque’s promoters are not just full of hot air.

Estimating that more than 25 million snapshots were made at last year’s event, Kodak has declared Albuquerque the world’s most photographed event, surpassing the previous title holder, the Rose Bowl Parade. No wonder the American film maker has served as the event’s major sponsor since 1992.

What’s the secret of Albuquerque’s success? Ballooning is an immensely popular sport in this central New Mexico city which bills itself as the “Balloon Capital of the World.” The city boasts the largest and most active balooning society in the world, the Albuquerque Aerostat Ascension Association, and is home to numerous pilots who have achieved ballooning’s highest honors and flown their way into its record books.

Perhaps Albuquerque’s special draw is due to a unique geographical condition that allows pilots to navigate precisely in all directions in the skies above this city of almost half a million. Since hot-air balloons are simply floated, and not propelled, under ordinary circumstances elsewhere pilots are at the mercy of one general prevailing wind direction. However, thanks to mountains that encircle Albuquerque and a unique system of wind currents, the city brags of the unusual “Albuquerque Box Effect.”

When the Box Effect is at its peak, pilots can take advantage of a variety of wind directions prevailing at various altitudes by merely ascending or descending. Unlike other ballooning sites, Albuquerque provides conditions that allow an experienced pilot to fly out of the field in one direction, reverse direction by catching other currents, and return to the original launch site.

While the Box Effect is the key to making Albuquerque pilot-friendly, it is the vivid colors, grand scale and accessibility that combine to make the nine-day event spectator-friendly.

On five mornings of the weekend-to-weekend event, up to 850 balloons are launched in rapid succession in the Mass Ascension. Though strictly controlled – more than five dozen walkie-talkie toting, zebra-striped launch directors make sure that everyone gets airborne without a hitch – there’s also a relaxed atmosphere not found at all ballooning events. Spectators are invited to roam the lauch field and mingle among balloonists; those who think to bring along a pair of work gloves might even be enlisted to grab a rope as the balloons are readied for launch.

In the hour and a half that begins at sunrise the New Mexico sky is dotted with brightly colored vessels floating softly on the wind. Cheers from the crowd combine with the sound of clicking shutters and roaring propane burners.

Albuquerque’s visual treats continue with nighttime balloon glows and the afternoon Special Shapes Rodeo. During the evening glows, fully inflated and tethered balloons line Fiesta Park. As the sky darkens, an annuncer lead spectators in the countdown: 10-9-8-7-6-5-4-3-2-1-GLOW! At GLOW!, propane burners roar, lighting up the towering envelopes.

At the Special Shapes Rodeo, spectators are likely to see a giant cow that just might be able to jump over the moon, a pink and purple dragon, Noah’s ark complete with animals, and a 190-foot space shuttle. Although the close to 100 special shape balloons are certainly welcome to participate in the other events of the week – and many do – the Special Shapes Rodeo is the exclusive domain of the towering airborne whiskey bottle, Canadian Maple Leaf, Indy and Audi cars, pink house, tennis shoe, and maybe even a bigger-than-life bald eagle.

For the competitive balloonist, Albuquerque stages precision flying events that test the pilots’ skills. Taking advantage of the Box Effect, pilots compete in a series of events and earn cash and other prizes. One of the most popular competitions is the Key Grab, in which a set of keys to a new automobile is perched atop a 30-foot pole in the center of Fiesta Park. Pilots pick launch sites at least one mile from the field and take turns flying in and trying to grab the keys. The first to do so takes home bragging rights and the new vehicle. New this year is the House Grab. Pilots will try to drop a weighted bean bag into a chimney to win a new house.

Spectators not content to stay firmly planted on the ground can join in the aerial action through Albuquerque’s official balloon ride concessionaire. For $160 to $190, World Balloon Corp. offers a four-hour adventure that peaks with a breathtaking 45-minute ride on the wind. The 300 to 400 people a day who splurge on the treat get a bird’s-eye view of the Fiesta Park and an unforgettable experience topped off with ballooning’s traditional champagne toast ceremony and a Certificate of First Flight.

Those eager to mix up ballooning with sightseeing, shopping and other vacation activities will find themselves in a perfect place to do so. Situated on the banks of the Rio Grande, New Mexico’s largest city offers a variety of distractions. For those with more time to roam, Santa Fe and Taos beckon to the north.

In the heart of Albuquerque’s Old Town – the city’s original downtown was settled in 1706 – adobe buildings and the San Felipe de Neri church guard the four sides of the old central plaza. In dozens of shops that fill the earthen buildings, tourists will discover perhaps the most complete offering of balloon-related goodies in the world. More than just balloon t-shirts, there are balloon earrings, ties, caps, and purses, balloon music boxes, Christmas tree ornaments, mobiles, and stained glass and even balloon puzzles, cookie cutters, candles, and neon lights.

There are also, nonballoon souvenirs, dried chili powder, traditional Southwest clothing and American Indian crafts. Braver folk can peak into the American International Rattlesnake Museum, where two dollars earns you the right to view 31 rare and not-so-rare species of the deadly viper and if you do so without passing out, a Certificate of Bravery.

Two miles to the east, Albuquerque’s newer downtown is bisected by John Steinbeck’s Mother Road, the legendary Route 66. Traveling the highway, tourists can get their kicks from nostalgic neon signs, old diners and truck stops or contemporary shops, fine restaurants, and galleries. In the restaurants, what has jokingly been referred to as the official state question – “red or green?” refers to what color chiles the eater wants with a meal.

To the east, Albuquerque boasts the world’s longest tramway. The 3-mile ride up to the 10,678-foot peak of the Sandia Mountains on the outskirts of town is not for the faint of heart, but it rewards the daring with a spectacular view of the city below. By early October, the aspens that top the peak are already a rich yellow.

For the tourist with a little more time to explore, Santa Fe is 59 miles to the north, Taos another 70. Each merits at least a day’s excursion.

Chic Santa Fe, rated the top travel destination by readers in a 1992 Conde Nast Traveler magazine poll, is a mecca for artist and celebs, and the recent rise in the area’s popularity is sending real estate prices out of reach for locals. Its Canyon Road is jammed with art galleries, and its downtown plaza runs the gamut from cheap, hackneyed souvenirs to pricey art, native potter, baskets and other collectibles. On one side of the plaza Indian women stretch out their blankets in the shade to display hand-made silver jewelry.

Smaller, but just as charming, Taos also draws its share of artist and photographers, the most famous of whom was Georgia O’Keeffe, who immortalizaed the bleached cow skulls, wildflowers and adobe missions of the area. On the northern outskirts of Taos is the must-see Taos Pueblo, wher a pair of multi-level mud-and-straw structures are believed to date back to at least 1540. About 1,500 Taos Indians occupy the adobe condos today. Although residents open the area to visitors they are reluctant to allow photographs, and like other Indians in the area, expect that permission will be asked (and perhaps a small fee paid) before a photograph is taken or a picture painted.

In early October, the ride back from Santa Fe and Taos can be a relaxing end to the day’s outing. The lonely Turquoise Trail, which in part tracks the winding Rio Grande, takes the rider alongside massive, shrub-dotted mountains and past ghost towns and weedcovered graveyards with weathered wooden crosses. The season’s produce is displayed at roadside stands, where visitors can pick up a chile ristra (wreath or spray) for under $10 and a bleached cow skull for about $75. The setting sun cast surreal, yet soothing, shadows upon the pinkish mountains as wispy clouds provide texture for the light’s last play across the vast Southwest sky. It’s an intoxicating end to an enjoyable day.

For More Information

Kodak Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta: 1-505-821-1000.

For balloon rides, World Balloon Corporation: 1-505-293-6800.

Albuquerque Convention & Visitors Bureau:1-800-284-2282.

Santa Fe Convention & Visitors Bureau: 1-800-777-2489.

Taos Chamber of Commerce: 1-800-732-8267.

To obtain the 1996 New Mexico Vacation Guide: 1-800-545-2040.