November 26, 2024
BANGOR DAILY NEWS (BANGOR, MAINE

Agamenticus Adventure> York peak offers mountain bikers ocean views, trails for all abilities and a brush with sainthood

Dana Wright came out of a rugged, rocky trail along Mt. Agamenticus Road in Ogunquit, waved to a fellow biker and stopped to make adjustments to his bike.

The trails around Mount Agamenticus are among Wright’s favorite places to ride. The chance to team up with fellow stump jumpers who have discovered the mountain biking mecca is just one of the reasons why.

The woods around the steep, looming mountain add the kind of wilderness calm found in other East Coast escapes such as Baxter State Park, the Catskills or Shenandoah National Park. But Mount Agamenticus has its own unnatural charm.

Let’s start with the shrine.

At the top of the 691-foot mountain — the highest on the Atlantic coast between Florida and Bar Harbor — there is an American Indian burial site, the tomb of an unusual nobleman.

Aspinquid, a Pawtucket Indian medicine man, was converted to the Christian faith and became known thereafter as St. Aspinquid. When he died in 1682, St. Aspinquid was buried on the mountain in a ceremony that gathered Indians from hundreds of miles around.

If you accept that saints are kindhearted guardians, you can believe St. Aspinquid watches over Mount Agamenticus still. He’s there to guide you to scenic vistas and peaceful trails. The spirit of the land serves as proof a guardian exists.

The wooded area dotted with ponds, streams and stone walls is unique and inviting in both its topography and its history. Northern and southern plant species grow in unison here the way mountain bikers from all around Maine converge to share their sport.

When Wright came from Saco to the mountain region two weeks ago for one last ride, he navigated his way alone through the fallen leaves. The rare hot fall days would soon be replaced by colder days and, worse, hunting season. But even on his last ride, Wright happened upon a first-time visitor to the mountain.

The two riders discussed the treacherous trails and technical paths they each had traveled. The ones that wind around the shady Folly Pond are beautiful, but steep in places, and dangerous if you go when the visibility is poor.

Wright has ridden on the trails for years, but said his wife, Lori, who is a beginner rider, wouldn’t enjoy them. Beginner trails are what the other rider hoped to find.

St. Aspinquid must have heard the conversation.

As the two riders explored together they happened upon an entrance to a trail on the west side of the mountain where the base of an old ski resort used to be.

Tall pillars told of a resort that died sometime in the 1970s. But the pine-covered tracks there now are alive with promise. The rolling, soft trails here let conversation replace concentration and you can enjoy the scenery as you ride. Even Lori would like these trails.

After the riders’ hourlong trek, memories of climbing over rocky paths and through streams were forgotten.

While mountain bike season is all but ending, the trails around Mount Agamenticus offer pleasant rides no matter what the season. And the roads leading away from the mountain down to the ocean offer refreshing solace.

On a weekday it’s just a half-hour ride along Shore Road from Perkins Cove in Ogunquit to an empty York Beach. Here, the benches provide a tranquil place to rest. Nothing like the sound of a tide to wash away your problems.

On the ride back, you’re sure to build an appetite. It’s a tight, windy road in places, and while you’re enjoying vistas of rocky inlets, you need to be alert for the occasional car or odd truck. But it’s pleasant to linger along this road of old homes and sea air.

When you’re done, Perkins Cove is the ideal place for a snack. Nestled among rocks, it’s romantic and rugged all at once. And if you’re ravenous, you can cap the trek with a meal at Cafe Amore’s.

The sandwiches here are worthy of a mountain biker’s appetite. The homemade soups are just as thick. Plus, you can look all you want like a tourist, but you’ll be treated like a local. The warm 1950s decor and sounds of Louis Armstrong’s sweet voice will slow you down. The owners will make you laugh — and their homemade muffins will fill you up.

You’ll wish the place were open past 3 p.m. — and between December and March.

Of course, there are a host of other eateries open year round that look enchanting. Many offer perfect ocean views while others promise live entertainment. Those between Perkins Cove and Ogunquit are within walking distance of the many B&Bs in the area.

One thing is certain of Ogunquit — the town doesn’t ever shut down. And between the ocean air, the brilliant starry sky and the far-awayness of the forest-lined roads, Mount Agamenticus and Ogunquit provide a relaxing place for a mountain bike adventure.

If you head there for a rare day of warm winter riding, you won’t be disappointed.

St. Aspinquid will see to it.

Deirdre Fleming has mountain biked all over Maine, including in races. When she’s not riding her Rockhopper, she’s running, or covering sports for the NEWS.

When You Go:

Ogunquit B&Bs open year-round:

The Admiral’s Inn, U.S. Route 1 South, 646-7093

The Beachmere Inn, Beachmere Place, 646-2021

Beauport Inn, 102 Shore Road, 646-8680

Blue Shutters, 6 Beachmere Place, 646-2163

Hartwell House, 118 Shore Road, 646-7210

Moon Over Maine, Berwick Road, 646-Moon

The Morning Dove, 30 Bourne Lane, 646-3891

Rockmere Lodge, 40 Stearns Road, 646-2985

The Trellis House, 646-7909

The White Rose Inn, 89 U.S. Route 1, 646-3432

Restaurants

Clay Hill Farm, Clay Hill Road, 361-2272

The Grey Gull, 475 Webhannet Drive, 646-7501

Hurricane Restaurant, Perkins Cove, 646-6348

Jonathans, 2 Bourne Lane, 646-4777

Roberto’s Restaurant, Shore Road, 646-8130

For more information on bike riding around Mount Agamenticus, call the base lodge at 363-1040 or the Ogunquit information center at 646-5533.


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