The gray of January stands out in sharp contrast to the colorful pictures adorning the seed catalogs that will land in mailboxes this month.

Now is the time gardeners all over Maine begin poring through the pages of those catalogs, making selections, totaling orders, paring down lists, totaling again, and finally calling or mailing in the order only to wait expectantly for the seeds — and spring — to arrive.

While some gardeners are loyal to certain seed companies, many buy from here and there and are open to trying new selections or whatever seems appealing this season. By the time the orders are totaled, shipping and handling tagged on, the bottom line can sometimes be a bit breathtaking. That’s one reason many gardeners save at least some seed from their gardens to use next season.

Saving our own seeds certainly is an economical technique that expands our horticultural experience, but it also provides an important link to our history. After all, one time not so long ago, saving seed and trading with others was the primary means of dispersing desirable seed.

Nowadays there are more seed companies than we know, specializing in the common to exotic, modern to heirloom, yet saving seed is the most tried, true and economical means of perpetuating the garden.

Storing seed properly throughout the winter is vital for ensuring the viability of next season’s seed. Although some will retain viability through a surprisingly wide range of storage conditions, most seed must be kept at a relatively constant level of moisture and within a moderate temperature range.

Storing seed, whether saved from the garden or left over from last year’s purchased supply, is relatively easy. Retain the seed in a paper envelope or in its original paper or foil packet. Mark the envelope clearly, noting species and cultivar, date and place of origin. Place the envelope in a glass jar and store the jar in a dry, dark, cool place. Be sure the jar is sealed tightly and that the storage room is not too humid.

The main idea is that seed should not be exposed to a range of moisture and temperature. For example, it should not be kept in the unheated garden shed in an open jar. This environment allows the seed to be exposed to virtually the outdoor weather conditions: moisture, drought, heat and cold.

Seed exposed to varying degrees of humidity and temperature may be cued to germinate prematurely. Once seed germinates and emerges from dormancy, it is rendered inviable; that is, it will not germinate again.

Sometimes it is obvious the germination process has begun: We see a root or a shoot. Other times, germination has begun inside the seed, and since we cannot see through the seed coat, we may not know otherwise.

Germination may begin under favorable conditions (if inside the storage envelope the seed’s moisture and temperature requirements were met and germination initiated), yet germination was suddenly halted, (perhaps an extreme drop in temperature stopped germination). Although we cannot see these subtle changes within the seed, the seed is effectively killed. If we have stored it improperly, we’ll only know this when we attempt — unsuccessfully — to germinate the seed.

Your questions

Q: What is the best way to sow seeds so that everything is ready to go in the ground at the right time? — M.F., Freedom

A: Basically, what we need to do is count backward. Start at the date you want to see the vegetables or flowers brought to fruition. Then, using the “days to maturity” indicator on the seed package or in the catalog, count back on the calendar to figure out the date you should sow the seeds.

For example, one tomato variety takes 80 days to mature. For tomatoes by mid-July, count back from then to find your sowing date of mid- to late April.

Of course, not all plants grow by the book. Our 80-day tomato will bear fruits by the anticipated date only under the best conditions. Treatment as a seedling, ease of transplantation, culture in the garden, use of season extenders and weather all play an important role in the success of the plant.

Timing the sowing of seed is a fine science in greenhouses across Maine and the country. While a few flowering species must be germinated as early as this month, some seeding — especially of short-season vegetable hybrids — can be done as late as the end of April.

Diana George Chapin is the NEWS garden columnist. Send horticulture questions to Gardening Questions, c/o MaineWeekend, Bangor Daily News, P.O. Box 1329, Bangor 04402-1329. Selected questions will be answered in future columns. Include name, address and telephone number.