City Slickers the corral for big appetites

When we reached the top of the stairs at City Slickers, a new Tex-Mex restaurant on Broad Street in the former Greenhouse Restaurant in Bangor, we knew we had dressed all wrong for the occasion. The image of a big red yahooing chili-waving a cowboy hat was the tipoff. In short, we forgot our spurs.

But we didn’t forget our appetites. No, sir. We went to City Slickers hungry, and got full up real quick. City Slickers is the place to load up on beans and rice, rice and beans, and a whole lotta cheese, cheese, cheese.

Don’t let that discourage you, however. It’s true, you may not get out of there without some combination of rice and beans topped with volcanos of cheese. But there’s plenty of meat — chicken tenderloin, chorizo, pepperoni, beef, even baby back ribs. And you want it hot? Well, you’re in the right place, partner.

City Slickers, which opened two months ago without fanfare, is about as opposite of the Greenhouse as possible. The chairs and tables (minus the pink cloths) are the same. And there’s still that lovely view of the KeyBank building.

These days, there are also neon beer signs, beer mirrors and plastic balloons with beer insignias. A Mexican tapestry and scattered Mexican gewgaws, such as a clay cactus or a mistletoelike strand of chili peppers, truly set the mood.

But not quite as well as the TVs in each of the two dining rooms and the bar. If you’re looking for a place to go with the kids, go early (and ask for crayons). Otherwise, we predict City Slickers probably will draw more of an adult crowd that likes to drop a few bucks on beer and follow it up with hot wings (regular or gringo killer), beer-battered cheese sticks, Mexican firecrackers (chicken strips with sauce) or Mexi skins (potato skins rolling in cheese and toppings).

For the brave, armadillo eggs are a courageous move. These are jalapenos stuffed with Monterey cheese or cream cheese and shrimp, and then thickly breaded. And we mean stuffed and we mean thickly.

The food has two major distinctions in terms of flavor: hot and not hot (your choice). And the portions are big. Whether you order a steaming enchilada or a burrito with chicken, beef, sausage, cheese, veggies or some combination thereof, expect bulk. This is big Western food for all you big Eastern appetites. Kind of like Dysart’s but South of the Border.

The final test, of course, is always the salsa and nachos. City Slickers salsa is, indeed, nicely piquant and was my favorite addition to the meal, which was otherwise the down-home American version of Mexican food. The nachos were at their best when combined with a margarita — served in Ball jars.

City Slickers is still working out kinks. We predict it will be a favorite spot for cowboys and cowgirls and other fun-loving, big-eating people. Snacks begin at around $4. At $19.95, the ribs are the most expensive item. Most selections are under $10. Margaritas are $4.50. Desserts such as Gold Tequila lime pie are more fun to look at than to eat — unless you’re a kid cruising for cavities.

A final warning: The Tex-Mex style pizza is not only hot; it’s insurmountably salty. When we sent it back in favor of a cheese burrito, we were shocked when the extraordinarily nice waitress brought the bill and an apology for charging us for both orders. A disclaimer in the menu warns that “gringo killer style” dishes are seriously hot and nonrefundable. The pizza didn’t fall into that category, and, frankly, was too salty, not too hot. So much for the customer always being right, muchacho.