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WILLIAMSBURG, Va. — The search for adventure, wealth and new opportunity has been an American tradition since the English settled in the colonies. One of the most prosperous territories of the British Empire was Williamsburg, Va., which 300 years later is unchanged enough to serve as a virtual history book as well as a source of adventure.
While most of the former colonies are speeding into the 21st century, in Williamsburg one still can lag behind a horse-drawn wagon on the main street. One also can witness a public auction, or the perpetrators of unknown crimes serving time in the stocks on the square.
Overlooking the center of town is the stately Governor’s Palace; the residence of the royally appointed official of the day which Thomas Jefferson and George Washington eventually called home. The red brick mansion is surrounded by meticulously trimmed hedges, and the seal of England gleams above the doorway of the wrought-iron fence.
Even in the late spring warmth, a visitor to the palace is greeted by a woman dressed in a long-sleeved dress, her hair pulled back under a bonnet. The gentleman next to her is dressed in a long-sleeved coat and shirt, vest and knickers. He wears thick stockings.
While walking through the mansion, guests are constantly reminded that they are in the home of a nobleman who is also a warrior. Lining the walls of the foyer are hundreds of interlocked swords. Muskets are mounted in a circular formation on the ceiling. Weapons are placed prominently throughout the house. Even in times of peace, the decor suggests that at any given moment the colonists were prepared to fight.
To the left of the foyer is the butler’s storage room, which holds the silver- and gold-rimmed dinnerware to be used for company. Across the hall is the assistant to the governor’s office. There, guests wait to meet with the governor and the first lady holds the occasional tea.
The bedrooms are upstairs. The chambers, with low ceilings and tight walking space, can barely hold a canopied double bed, a side table with a water basin and a fireplace.
A palace wouldn’t be complete without grand entertaining facilities. The great room and ballroom are where high society gathered. The great room is wallpapered in leather.
The ballroom is richly carpeted, and chandeliers hang from the high ceilings. It is the only carpeted room in the mansion. Lining the shelves on the wall are silver candlesticks and the portraits of Kings Charles and George and Queens Catherine and Charlotte. The harpsichord, piano and bureau organ provide music for the minuet. Although all the rooms in the palace have fireplaces, the ballroom has a Dutch oven to keep guests warm.
Guests, while taking a stroll in the west courtyard of the governor’s estate, can watch as the slaves prepare part of the dinner meal in the smokehouse. Hops are soaked for brewing the governor’s beer in the scullery. In the pantry, one finds the cooking and baking supplies and a woman checking meat in the rotisserie. In the governor’s coach house, an apprentice learns how to build wagon wheels.
Leaving the mansion and continuing down the lane toward town, a visitor can find shade under the beech trees and sit on benches while sampling homemade rock candy, chocolate-covered almonds or dried fruit sold at McKenzie’s Apothecary.
Colonists with errands to run could drop their shoes at the shoemaker, then check in on the saddle maker to see if the saddle is ready. If there were time to spare, a colonist could chat with any of the town’s craftsmen practicing their trade. On the way home, a colonist could glance at the Colonial Garden and Nursery, where staples such as cabbage, corn and potatoes are grown for future sale. Surrounding shops carry homemade goods, replicas of what were considered necessities.
It’s a busy day in Williamsburg. People are buying goods at the morning auction, young men are learning how to shoot rifles in preparation to defend the colony, and two men convicted of public drunkenness sit in the stocks, heckled by youngsters.
Of course, gossip is contagious in the colony, and today’s speculation is focused on Virginia declaring independence from mother England. Inside the Capitol Building, discussion is focused on how the potential new government will be formed. Later in the afternoon, Patrick Henry is going to announce what the Virginia Convention decided about breaking away from the British Empire.
Even though a majority of the exhibits take you back 300 years, one exhibit mixes modern-day storytelling with ancient artifacts. Commemorating the 300-year anniversary of Williamsburg in 21st century style is the exhibit “1699 When Virginia Was the Wild West.”
Vibrant colors in a comic strip tell the tale of how the new frontier was settled. The exhibit is on display at the De Witt Wallace Gallery, whose displays include musical instruments, furniture and weapons.
As the animated story progresses, societal classes become more evident as the town flourishes. The harsh reality of all people not being created equal is clearly depicted. The animosity between indentured servants and the elite is clearly shown in the cartoon drawings. Tobacco is grown as the cash crop of the South and the classes become more evident. Fancy balls are held at the governor’s mansion, and while the ladies worry about fancy dresses the men start to talk of breaking away from their mother country.
The modern-day exhibit perhaps teaches us the most important lesson of all — that even with modern technology and societal advancements, we still face the same challenges as those who settled in Williamsburg 300 years ago.
If you go
Before stepping back in time in colonial Williamsburg, Va., prepare for the journey by stopping at the visitors center. Pick up a map and daily schedule that tells you what day in history you’re reliving and, most importantly, the museum passes that allow you into a majority of the exhibits such as the Governor’s Palace, De Witt Wallace Gallery and Capitol Building.
A pass is not needed to enter the shops, taverns or downtown area. There are several passes from which to choose, depending on how long you’re going to be in the area.
The Patriot’s Pass provides entrance to all of the exhibits, including 18th century homes open to the public. It also provides discounts to special programs, restaurants and stores. This pass is good for a full year. Cost is $35 for adults, $20 for children ages 6 to 12.
The Colonist’s Pass offers entrance to most of the exhibits that the Patriot’s Pass provides, with not as many discounts offered and the pass is good for only two days. Cost is $31 for adults, $18 for children 6 to 12. The difference in price is just a few dollars, so if you plan to stay in the Williamsburg area for a longer period of time to enjoy the other attractions, The Patriot’s Pass would be more economical.
The Basic Pass provides access to a majority of the exhibits, but there are no discounts and this pass is only good for a day and a half. Cost is $27 for adults, $16 for children ages 6 to 12.
Many of the hotels in the Williamsburg area offer packages that include these passes.
Living and eating as if one were a colonist is possible due to the inns and taverns that are decorated in colonial motif. Located on the main street, many of these establishments actually existed back in the day of Patrick Henry and George Washington.
For additional information about all of Williamsburg and a complimentary vacation information package, call 1-800-HISTORY.
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