Prague> Czech City has blossomed since its fall from communism a decade ago

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We arrive at Newark Airport only to face our worst nightmare: We have no seat reservations.

Knowing that Czech Air operates just one flight a day, and glancing around at the long line of passengers waiting to board the plane, our prospects seem grim.

Patience pays off and we are “forced” to accept an upgrade to business class. What begins as a former “Eastern bloc” experience magically turns into a first-class adventure.

When I picture the old communist public airplanes, visions of outdated Russian Tupelovs or Ilyushins come to mind. But today’s post-communist airplane — at least at Czech Air — is a modern European Airbus. After a rare treat of champagne and caviar, we settle in for a short seven-hour flight, still expecting an Iron Curtain welcome in a city whose architectural beauty is legendary.

Much to our surprise, Prague has bloomed since its fall from communism in November 1989. Known as “the city of a hundred spires,” Prague has never lost its Baroque charm and musical influence, and today there is a barrage of Western cuisine and commerce to boot.

Like Paris

Although the city’s history under Nazi and Soviet control is disturbing, it is hard to imagine the power struggles that once occurred. I prefer to compare this bustling European city to Paris, perhaps during the Roaring ’20s. The streets are alive with musicians and dancing, political discussions, and vendors selling everything from antiques to knickknacks.

The Slavia Kavarna (cafe) must serve one of the best cafe au laits this side of France. Also known as the “dissidents cafe,” Slavia is an Art Deco edifice, opposite the National Theatre, which attracts a performing arts crowd, businesspeople, a few tourists and a loyal bohemian following from its old days.

Prague’s foremost attraction: You can have a classic European experience without the high price tag attached to more developed cities such as Paris.

The one exception to cheap prices is that hotel accommodation is somewhat expensive relative to what you actually get. Still, this should not deter those seeking the slower-paced lifestyle of Europe’s glory days.

We stay at the Hotel Kampa in the medieval district of Mala Strana (Little Quarter), just across the Moldau (also known as Vltava) River from Stare Mesto (Old Town). The hotel is on a quiet, cobblestone street near the Prague Castle area, only a short walk from the 14th century Charles Bridge.

Originally a marketplace, and for roughly 500 years the only bridge in Prague (there are at least 17 today), this remarkable work of art is now a centerpiece for tourists, backpackers and locals, filled with musicians and artsy vendors who mingle well into the night. Intricately carved 18th and 19th century Baroque statues of saints line the bridge, and the view of Prague Castle on the hill above is especially breathtaking at dusk during the summer months.

Communist relics

In spite of the headlong rush to embrace capitalism, a few relics of the communist era remain. On our first night we attend the Prague Ballet’s performance of “Coppelia” and have a stunning view for only $1.25 a ticket. The neo-Renaissance National Theatre is designed in grandiose style, with lush red seats, gilded railing and a ceiling painted in royal blues and yellows and gold inlay. The ballet is worth far more than we pay; the magnificence of the theater merits a visit on its own.

On most nights there is an array of church concerts where opera, baroque, and jazz music are performed. Although slightly more expensive ($10-12 a ticket) than the State Ballet, tickets are still very reasonable by Western standards. One evening, we attend a Vivaldi Baroque organ and trumpet concert held at St. Nicholas Church, a quintessential example of Baroque architecture that dominates the center of Mala Strana. Elegant frescoes adorn the church walls.

The concert is finished by 9 p.m., and during the summer it doesn’t get dark until after 11 p.m. We decide to be lazy and wander along the riverbank, where there are numerous cafes, outdoor bars, and ethnic restaurants ranging from Tex-Mex to traditional Czech beer gardens offering goulash and potato dumplings. We watch the sun set over Prague’s medieval castle nestled among the red-roofed buildings on the hilltop. The golden sky blossoms into a brilliant array of pinkish-red, purple and blue.

We meander over the Charles Bridge, our favorite haunt, and make our way to the Kampa, a quiet park near our hotel. There are still numerous people out enjoying the cool night air. Young couples smooch in the moonlight and several musicians play their guitars. The ambience has such a calming effect; it is almost surreal. Again, we wonder whether we are in Prague, or could it be Paris?

Walking tours help

One of the best ways to see the city and gain a historical perspective is to take one of the walking tours of Stare Mesto, the oldest quarter in Prague. We sign up for the “Velvet Revolution” walk to learn the history of the fall of communism in the former Czechoslovakia. Our meeting place is the 15th century Old Town Hall Astronomical Clock, which is far too complex for me to figure out. Still, it’s worth watching the parade of 12 Apostles, a skeleton, a figure of Jesus, and a rooster “cock-a-doodle-dooing,” a daily occurrence usually between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m.

Our guide, Horst, is a pensioner — a retired teacher of language, gymnastics and geography. He is a real eccentric. Horst’s arms fly dramatically and his voice constantly changes from a low to a high pitch as he tells us that his teachings never had to be altered under the communist doctrine. All of a sudden, he becomes engrossed in the activities of a nearby “pickpocket,” whom the police are on top of immediately. Unfortunately, the price of freedom today often brings petty scams.

We begin our walk around Old Town Square and other areas where the student protests took place in November 1989. Horst explains that the Velvet Revolution was a peaceful uprising, because this country was one of the last communist systems to fall. Hence, by that time there was no help available from Moscow.

He points out the balcony where Vaclav Havel, now the nation’s president, gave his speech renouncing communism and declaring democracy forever. We walk along Bartolomejska Street and stop at a popular budget hostel, the Pension Unitas.

The building was once the old communist secret police headquarters, where Havel and other dissidents were interrogated and tortured. It’s possible to rent Havel’s old cell, No. 6, for about $15 a person. For most locals, however, it’s too close to the past for comfort.

As a final tidbit on our tour, Horst tells us the story of his son, who was one of only several injured among the student protesters. Today his son is an engineer for a local car manufacturer, and his daughter-in-law recently had a test-tube baby named Anthony. Then Horst quietly asks for any extra U.S. dollars or British pounds, as he’s off to the United Kingdom soon to study English. Such entertainment absolutely warrants a tip!

Exploring the countryside

On a bright sunny morning we decide to explore the Czech countryside and make our way to the 17th century Troja Chateau and nearby zoo. We catch a boat that cruises slowly along the Moldau River. As we move out of the heart of Prague, the architecture drastically changes from Baroque, Romanesque and Gothic styles to unattractive white concrete structures, reminiscent of the old communist days — a unique perspective.

After an hour and a half, we arrive at the Baroque Troja Chateau. We put on funny little slippers to walk in the extensively restored palace. It is filled with exquisite frescoes from the 18th and 19th centuries. Many of the Czech artists studied in France. The influence shows. Beautifully manicured gardens surround the palace with big green hedges. One can just imagine the afternoon walks that took place among the Bohemian royals.

Near the palace is the Troja Zoo, which is a bit rundown, but nevertheless houses big cats, birds and hippos among other wildlife. We catch a bus to a nearby subway station with the help of a young Czech woman and are back in Old Town Square within 30 minutes.

We stroll over to Josefov, the old Jewish ghetto. As early as the 10th century, this was the center of the Jewish community in Prague. Today the area is a memorial to the city’s Jews who were killed by the Nazis during World War II. It houses museums, synagogues and an old cemetery dating between 1439 and 1787. The Old Jewish Cemetery is an unusual sight. Over the years, as space became scarce, tombstones were laid upon tombstones. It is said that thousands of tombs are piled in as many as 12 layers, resembling a small plateau.

A moving experience

One of the most moving experiences we have is our visit to a branch of the nearby State Jewish Museum that contains children’s drawings and poetry, depicting impressions of life in the concentration camp Terezin — used by the Nazis as a “show camp.” Because this camp was on display for organizations such as the Red Cross, the Nazis permitted theater, music, art, poetry and other forms of learning to take place, albeit under a watchful eye.

Some of the paintings are of everyday things, such as animals and flowers, while others portray life in Terezin (for obvious reasons, these were hidden from the Nazi guards). One drawing catches my attention: a princess trapped inside a box is fighting off an evil dragon showering her with fire. Sadly, most of the children, whose art can be seen today, were killed in the notorious gas chambers of Auschwitz in nearby Poland.

There are many things to see and do in Prague, but a visit is not complete without a short hike to Hradcany, the Castle District. Located on the hillside overlooking the Moldau River and the city’s medieval core, Prague Castle is surrounded by museums, old churches and monuments. A somewhat daunting guard stands at the entrance to the complex on Castle Square. We attempt to get him to smile, but fail.

The air is filled with the light-hearted music of Mozart, performed by a string quartet in the square. It’s fun to meander through the three courtyards within the complex and gaze at the elegant Royal Palace — the seat of Czech political power since the 9th century. We make our way to Golden Lane, a street that originally housed goldsmiths. Today, there are cafes and shops galore. We end up at No. 22, the former home of the famous Czech writer Franz Kafka.

We wander over to the Grand Hotel Europa on Wenceslas Square (Vaclavske namesti), a long, broad boulevard in Nove Mesto (New Town) that is filled with history. In 1968, Soviet tanks crushed the student-led “Prague Spring” democracy movement. Ironically, this was also the center of the peaceful “Velvet Revolution.” Inside the Grand Hotel, we find a taste of Prague’s Old World elegance. The restaurant-cafe is impressive, with live piano music and large crystal chandeliers dangling from high ceilings, all enveloped in a smoke-filled ambience.

It is our final morning in Prague. We stop by the Bohemia Bagel shop, where we eat toasted bagels with cream cheese. These aren’t exactly New York bagels, but considering what was on the menu even 10 years ago, Prague has come a long way. We join the locals walking to work in the cool morning air and cross the Charles Bridge. We are suddenly entertained by a group of three men working on the tram lines. They seem too old to be lifting the huge iron hammers. But as my husband points out, they’ve probably been lifting them all of their lives.

Every few minutes a tram comes along. The men pack up their little tools and other antiquated equipment, and move off the tracks to allow the tram to pass. Aside from these small remnants of the communist past, Prague feels very Western. My ear catches the sound of George Gershwin’s “An American in Paris” being performed along the riverbank. If I didn’t know better, I would expect to see Gene Kelly come leaping through the air in grand Parisian style.

Savvy tourists plan ahead

Best weather to travel

The best time to visit Prague is in the summer and autumn when the weather is warm. For those who want to take advantage of off-season rates (does not include Christmas, Dec. 24-26) and fewer tourists, the city is beautiful covered in snow. Prague is known for its omnipresent music and theater, from street puppeteers to sophisticated opera and dance. It is one of nine European cities designated as a “European City of Culture” for the year 2000.

Getting there

Czech Airlines has daily nonstop flights (May-October) from Newark Airport to Prague for roughly $1,100. During the autumn (midseason), fares run about $900. For the off-season period of Nov. 1-15, fares drop to $526. British Airways has a daily flight from New York’s Kennedy Airport via London and is offering a summer fare of $634, subject to availability and restrictions. Delta runs a daily service from JFK by way of Zurich for about $1,100 with a 21-day advance purchase. Note: Americans do not need a visa for the Czech Republic.

Places to stay

Prague has numerous hotels, ranging from luxury to hostels. We stayed at the comfortable Hotel Kampa (011-420-2-5732-0508) in Mala Strana, doubles $100, includes breakfast. The 5-star Palace Hotel (011-420-2-2409-3111), just off Wenceslas Square, is a 1906 Viennese Art Nouveau-style hotel, doubles $270-$330 (July-October), includes breakfast. The Cloister Inn (shared with the Pension Unitas) (011-420-2-232-7700) at Bartolomejska 9 offers budget double rooms with private baths for about $100; or stay in the hostel wing (Pension Unitas), which includes Vaclav Havel’s old cell, $15 per person for a bunk bed.

Transport around Prague

Prague is a city for walking. There is also a good metro and tram system. Use only registered taxis that have a black “TAXI” sign marked on the roof. The main train station with domestic and international transportation is Hlavni nadrazi. The local boat to Troja Chateau and Zoo runs twice daily from the Palackeho Bridge.

Places to eat

For a real Czech experience, try the Novomestsky Pivovar (Vodickova 20; 011-420-2-2423-3533), a cheap traditional Czech beer garden offering goulash and the world-famous Czech beer. The restored Art Nouveau building, Obecni dum (Municipal House) (Namesti Republiky 5; 011-420-2-2200-2777), contains two grand cafes, a French restaurant, and a theater, all decorated in a Royal atmosphere. The Roxy Kuskuserie (Dlouha 33) is a funky cafe that was once a former grand movie house of the 1920s; today it is decorated with Middle Eastern motifs and Persian rugs. The Slavia Kavarna (dissidents cafe) (opposite the National Theater; 011-420-2-2422-0957) is definitely worth a visit. If you need a bagel fix, try the Bohemia Bagel shop (Ujezd 16, 011-420-2-530-921).