PERFECT VINAIGRETTES: APPETIZERS TO DESSERTS, by Linda Dannenberg, Stewart, Tabori & Chang, New York, 1999, 112 pages, $19.95.

“A great vinaigrette is a simple yet sublime component of countless appetizers, salads, and main course dishes,” says Linda Dannenberg in the introduction of her new book. She likens learning to prepare a fine, well-balanced vinaigrette to mastering the art of a perfect martini or a great cup of coffee. It is all in the understanding of the components and how they work in synthesis.

Step by step, Dannenberg introduces us to these components, and we read how to stock our pantry with assertive oils, savory vinegars and flavorful mustards.

In her straightforward style, she takes us beyond the classically defined sauce with a tart edge to vinaigrettes prepared with fruit juices, cream and pan drippings in a wonderful culinary adventure from appetizers to desserts. The adventure includes purist vinaigrettes for simple green salads, unusual sauces from the restaurants of luxury hotels, unique dressings for fruit salads, and bright vinaigrettes for grilled fish.

Dannenberg’s collection is contemporary and very much in tune with today, and the photographs by Zeva Oelbaum are lovely.

In the short time I’ve cooked with Linda Dannenberg, my salads have become more tangy, my food more interesting. “Perfect Vinaigrettes” has earned a permanent spot on my kitchen cookbook shelf.

Although Dannenberg denotes this recipe as Vermont Maple Dressing, I stayed true to my roots and used Maine maple syrup. Regardless of the syrup’s origin, this delicate, sweet-and-sour vinaigrette is delicious on a salad of mesclun mixed with shredded carrots, sliced European cucumbers, thinly sliced radishes and cherry tomatoes. I chose to use the ketchup, as it added a nice rosy glow to the dressing.

Vermont Maple Dressing Serves 6

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar or cider vinegar

1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 small clove garlic, minced Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons maple syrup 1 tablespoon ketchup (optional) 6 tablespoons olive oil

In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, salt, lemon juice, garlic and several turns of pepper. Stir until the salt is dissolved. Add the maple syrup and ketchup and whisk to blend thoroughly. Add the olive oil and whisk until the ingredients are emulsified. Pour over a salad and toss to coat thoroughly, or spoon over individual servings of salad and serve immediately.

Avocado-Herb Dressing makes a great little dip for vegetables. Dannenberg recommends mashing the avocado and passing it through a sieve. I had satisfactory results by just preparing the entire dressing in the bowl of my food processor.

Avocado-Herb Dressing Serves 6

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 4 tablespoon peanut or canola oil 3 tablespoons chopped fresh aromatic herbs (choose three from: chervil, chives, tarragon, parsley, celery leaves) 1 ripe avocado, peeled and mashed through a sieve

In a bowl combine the vinegar, salt and pepper. Stir until the salt dissolves. Whisk in the mustard, then add the oil and whisk to bind the ingredients. Stir in the herbs, add the avocado, and beat until the dressing is thoroughly blended and almost smooth. Even when well-beaten, there will still be a bit of texture from the avocado. Spoon over individual servings of salad.

My eldest daughter requested a salad with asparagus for her graduation brunch, so I steamed and blanched asparagus, arranged them on a platter, and served them with Chevre-Chervil Vinaigrette. The soft goat cheese was the perfect foil for tender, young Haight Farm asparagus. The chervil in my herb garden is slow to come this spring, so I used chives instead, and garnished the plate with the purple blossoms.

Chevre-Chervil Vinaigrette For A Steamed Asparagus Platter serves 4-6

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon finely minced shallots 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chervil (I substituted chives) 6 ounces fresh chevre (goat cheese) crumbled

In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper. Add the oil, shallots, and half the chervil (or chives) and whisk until the ingredients are emulsified. Sprinkle the chevre over a platter of steamed asparagus, drizzle with some of the vinaigrette, then sprinkle with the remaining tablespoon of chervil (or chives). Serve immediately, passing the remaining vinaigrette in a sauceboat.

Because I cook for a fit and healthful lifestyle, fresh fruit is often the dessert at our supper table. Creamy Orange-Sesame Dressing was delicious on a salad combining two kinds of melon balls, and I’d like to try it next on fresh strawberries when they come in season. I substituted no-fat yogurt for the creme fraiche, and used only 1 tablespoon of orange liqueur.

Creamy Orange-Sesame Dressing For Fruit Salad serves 4

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice 2 tablespoons Cointreau or other orange liqueur (optional)

1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon grated orange zest 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 2 tablespoons orange blossom or mixed flower honey 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

1/2 cup creme fraiche

In a medium mixing bowl, combine the orange juice, Cointreau, salt and sugar. Stir until the salt and sugar are dissolved. Add the orange and lemon zests and the honey and stir to blend. Then add the sesame seeds and the creme fraiche. Whisk until the dressing is smooth and creamy. Pour over mixed fruits, toss to combine thoroughly and serve immediately.

Editor’s Note: Cheryl Wixson served as the chef of Bangor’s former Tarratine Club and currently runs Cheryl Wixson’s Kitchen, a