Autumn brings harvest of larger veggies

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Budding mums and roadside asters signal the onset of fall. For some gardeners, of course, autumn marks the harvest of some of the larger vegetables: all manner of the cucurbit family – gorgeous green, blue and yellow squashes and bright orange pumpkins, both large and small.
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Budding mums and roadside asters signal the onset of fall. For some gardeners, of course, autumn marks the harvest of some of the larger vegetables: all manner of the cucurbit family – gorgeous green, blue and yellow squashes and bright orange pumpkins, both large and small.

Gardening just doesn’t get any easier than planting a hill of squashes or pumpkins. Simply plant the seeds, water them thoroughly, and let nature do its work. This group of plants needs little care, and that makes them satisfying for nearly any gardener, new or experienced. The large leaves on vining stems quickly cover ground, squelching out the growth of weeds along the way.

In general, members of the squash family aren’t too finicky about fertility or moisture and perform better than many other garden plants in soil conditions that offer low fertility and less-than-ideal water. Unfortunately, the relative ease with which cucurbits are grown is not a complete guarantee that their production will be risk-free. Some insects, namely the voracious and prolific pest known simply as the “squash bug”, will easily destroy the leaves and stems of otherwise lush plantings.

One Surry reader asked this week why his zucchini plants are flowering, but not producing any fruit. Typically, this results from poor pollination and cool or wet weather. In some years, pollinators are simply less abundant. We notice the effects of a weak pollinator population with low fruit production in our garden. In other years, cool weather limits the activity of insect pollinators.

Hand pollinating the flowers with a paint brush is a sound alternative to natural pollination. Wet weather can also force pollinators to stay away from the vegetable garden, and can be the catalyst for another destructive problem: blossom end rot. In immature zucchini, blossom end rot may appear as an off-colored developing fruit only a half inch long, which turns to brown and, in a short time, falls away from the mother plant.

Blossom end rot can be a serious problem for all cucurbits. The rot of developing squashes and pumpkins (yes indeed, those fleshy plant parts of pumpkins and squashes that we eat are technically called fruits) can be a significant problem as well. In wet years, fruits resting on the ground may rot from the bottom up. Allowing air movement around the fruits by elevating them on boards or a tin cans, or on straw or plastic mulch can be an effective means of increasing the chances of bringing the vegetable to proper maturity.

For those vegetables that reach maturity in a sound state, a careful harvesting process will ensure that they endure well into winter. Use a sharp knife when harvesting to make a clean cut on the short stem that attaches the fruit to the vine. Breaking the “handle” of the squash or pumpkin will effectively lay out the red carpet for fungal and insect infestations, so handle each piece by the fruit itself.

Harvest summer squashes (zucchini, yellow squash, etc.) and can, freeze, dry or pickle them within a day or two. Winter squashes (Hubbard squash, acorn squash, pumpkins, butternut, etc.) should be harvested when the shell of the fruit is in full color, yet doesn’t break or dent under the pressure of your thumbnail. Be sure to harvest before the first hard frost. Some people believe that pumpkins and squashes exposed to a light frost will be more flavorful, but those same fruits are more likely to not endure a prolonged storage.

Use a soft cloth to rid the rind of any soil. Do not wash the harvest in a water or diluted bleach solution: this process rids the rind of its natural compounds that resist decay. If the fruits are bruised or without a stem, use them immediately. Cure only healthy, intact cucurbits in the sun or in a well-ventilated area kept at room temperature for 10 days. After that, store the fruits for up to 5 months at a dry 50-55 degrees F.

Diana George Chapin is the NEWS garden columnist. Send horticulture questions to Gardening Questons, RR1, Box 2120, Montville 04941, or e-mail them to dianagc@ctel.net. Selected questions will be answered in future columns. Include name, address and telephone number.


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