Cheese provides new frontier

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In her new book, “The New American Cheese, Profiles of America’s Great Cheesemakers and Recipes for Cooking with Cheese,” author Laura Werlin relates that she has always loved cheese: so much so, that she even dreams about cheese.

Over the past 10 years, the United States has been experiencing a “cheese revolution,” moving beyond Velveeta and individually wrapped plastic slices. Cheese has become the next great culinary frontier.

In “The New American Cheese,” published by Stewart, Tabori & Chang, Werlin’s passion takes us from the beginnings of cheese making, in New York right after the Pilgrims landed, to more than 50 individual farms that prepare cheese with “flavor, depth, complexity, and pure artistry.” She gives us an in-depth look at this revolution, including the effects of mechanization, sustainable agriculture and organic farming. We learn about not just dairy (cow) cheese, but sheep’s milk and goat cheese as well.

Werlin provides chapters on how to buy, store and taste cheese, nutritional and health information, pairing wine and cheese (my favorite), and an extensive glossary. Educating both our palates and our culinary souls, Werlin concludes her American cheese exploration with 80 recipes. Both armchair and kitchen chefs will enjoy mouthwatering delights such as Peppered Goat Cheese Crackers, Linguine with Pesto, Potatoes, Green Beans, and Cheese, or Green Garlic Risotto with Cauliflower, Pancetta and Fromage Blanc.

Werlin’s “The New American Cheese” is both fascinating and thorough, and just my kind of revolution.

This is a very soul-satisfying and comforting dish. Try it some leisurely Sunday afternoon.

Grilled Pork Chops with Cheddar-Corn Spoon Bread and Apple-Sage Chutney

For the pork chops:

4 bone-in loin pork chops (8 to 12 ounces each)

21/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

11/2 tablespoons Calvados (apple brandy) or apple juice

2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

For the chutney:

11/4 cups cider vinegar

5 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

11/4 pounds Granny Smith apples (about 2 1/2 apples) peeled, cored and chopped into 3/4 inch cubes

juice from one lemon (about 1/4 cup)

grated zest from one lemon (about 1 1/2 tablespoons)

heaping teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

cup golden raisins

1 yellow onion chopped (about 1 cup)

2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage leaves

For the spoon bread:

3/4 cup corn kernels (fresh or frozen)

3/4 cup yellow corn meal

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

11/2 teaspoons sugar

freshly ground pepper

2 cups milk

1 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted

3 large eggs, separated, yolks lightly beaten

2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage leaves

4 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, such as Bass Lake cheddar, coarsely grated (about 1 cup)

To marinate the pork chops: In a nonreactive dish, arrange the chops in one layer. In a small bowl, mix together the Calvados, mustard, vinegar, olive oil, sage and pepper to taste. Pour over the chops, coating both sides with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate at least 6 hours or overnight.

To make the chutney: In a medium-size heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the vinegar and brown sugar and bring to a boil. Cook until the mixture is reduced by one-third, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the apples, lemon juice and zest, red pepper flakes, mustard seeds, raisins and onions. Stir the ingredients together, turn the heat to a low simmer, partially cover, and cook for 30 minutes. Stir occasionally – gently, so as not to break apart the apples.

Add the chopped sage and cook until the apples are very soft and the vinegar has mellowed, 30 to 40 minutes. You may need to add a little extra brown sugar. The mixture should be thick. If you will be serving the chutney the same day, let it sit at room temperature for 2 hours before serving. Otherwise, refrigerate it and bring it to room temperature before serving.

To make the spoon bread: About an hour before serving time, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 2-quart casserole or souffle dish. Place the cornmeal in a large heatproof bowl. In another bowl, mix the salt, baking powder, sugar and pepper together and set aside.

In a 1-quart saucepan, bring the milk to a low boil over medium heat (watch to be sure it doesn’t boil over). Pour over the cornmeal, stirring until all the lumps are gone and the cornmeal has thickened slightly, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the buttermilk, melted butter, egg yolks, corn and sage. Mix well. Stir in the reserved dry ingredients.

In a mixing bowl, beat 2 egg whites until stiff peaks form (save the third egg white for another use). Gently fold into the cornmeal mixture along with half the cheese. Mix just enough to incorporate the egg whites, but try not to overmix. Pour into the prepared casserole. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 cup cheese.

Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the cheese is brown and the center is still somewhat loose, jiggling slightly when touched. Let cool for 5 minutes before serving.

To cook the pork chops: While the spoon bread is baking, prepare a grill or preheat the broiler. Remove the pork chops from the marinade and grill or broil on one side for 6 to 7 minutes. Turn and cook on the other side until the meat feels firm but still gives slightly, 5 to 7 minutes more. The meat should be light pink on the inside.

To assemble: Place one chop on each plate. Spoon some chutney over it. Dollop a generous portion of the spoon bread next to pork chop, and serve with some sauteed greens.

This salad would be perfect for a potluck supper, or even Thanksgiving dinner. Be sure to buy the tomatoes in time to let them ripen on the counter. If you can’t find fresh tarragon, basil would work just as well.

Herbed Sugar Snap Peas with Goat Cheese

2 pounds fresh sugar snap peas, stems and strings removed

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil

3 medium shallots, finely chopped

3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves

salt and freshly ground pepper

12 ounces cherry tomatoes cut in half lengthwise

1/2 pound fresh goat cheese, cut into small pieces

Bring a pot of salted water to boil. Add the peas and cook until crisp-tender, about 2 to 3 minutes. Drain, run under cold water and set aside.

In a large saute pan, heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are limp but not brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil and heat for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and add the chopped tarragon and peas, stirring to coat the peas with the oil, shallots and tarragon. Add plenty of salt and pepper. Let cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes. Arrange the pea mixture, tomatoes and cheese on a serving plate; garnish with additional tarragon. Do not mix. Serves 8 to 10.

I’ve adapted this recipe slightly, and have served it as both a dessert or an appetizer. Instead of lavender honey, my family enjoys wildflower honey that my sister and her husband harvest from their farm in Troy. The complexities of the honey is key. Don’t use a mass-produced one, but seek out your own local Maine honey.

Fresh Goat Cheese, Pears, and Toasted Walnuts with Lavender Honey

12 small rounds fresh goat cheese (about 1 ounce each)

cup lavender honey (or any Maine-produced honey)

1/2 cup walnuts (roasted in 350-degree oven)

3 fresh pears, cored and cut into thick slices, then dipped in lemon juice

Place 2 goat cheese rounds on each plate. Pour 1 tablespoon honey over each round. Scatter 5 or 6 nuts over each round, and arrange several pear slices on each plate.

Serves 6.