Anyone who’s been to Baxter State Park’s South Branch Campground can appreciate the feeling of remoteness and grandeur you get gazing across Lower South Branch Pond, flanked on the east by Traveler Mountain with its three impressive peaks, and on the west by Black Cat Mountain.
I gained a new appreciation for remoteness this past weekend when I tagged along with five friends on an 111/2-mile ski trek into the park to enjoy the park in its awe-inspiring winter finery. What a trip!
We each dragged our own customized children’s plastic sled piled with food, equipment and clothing, enough seemingly for a week’s stay.
Most of us had met during a sea kayak guide’s class we took last winter at United Technologies Center, but our paths had since taken us in different directions. So, I enthusiastically signed on when our instructor and friend, Karen Francoeur, asked if I’d be up for a winter visit to the park. (Enthusiastically, until the reality of the trip set in. I reasoned that 9 miles was a long way for me to ski – even longer when you add 50-60 pounds of gear.)
My outlook softened a bit when I learned we’d be staying in a log cabin heated by a wood stove. I reasoned that with some moderate exercise beforehand and resolve at the beginning of the trip, I could do it.
Fortunately, I could spend a couple of days before the trip getting my food and gear organized and reinforcing a plastic sled so it would survive the towing and gear lashing. Each of us would take what we needed, according to a gear checklist we shared by e-mail. Francoeur supplied our itinerary and we all managed to meet close to the appointed hour at the Medway Irving station on Friday morning, where we gathered in the diner for a hearty breakfast.
From there, we redistributed our gear into two vehicles for the trip north on Interstate 95 to Sherman and on to Patten via Route 11. Flurries made the 25-mile drive on the Shin Pond Road slow going, but our anticipation for the trek ahead made the time pass quickly, at least for me. Mild shock struck when we pulled into a parking area more than two miles from the Matagamon gate to the park. In all my pretrip thinking I had figured on a 91/2-mile ski. This added another 2-plus miles!
We packed our sleds, wrapped our gear burrito-style with a piece of tarp, fastened bungees around the whole mess, hooked up our harnesses and we were off. The tugging at my waist wouldn’t be all that noticeable after a while, I thought. I’d get used to it. Not so! For the next six hours (except during our several rest stops) that tugging was a constant reminder that there are always more uphills than down.
Light flurries provided a nice touch as we rounded Horse Mountain on our way to the Matagamon gate. After a brief rest stop, we trudged onward to Trout Brook Farm, about 4.6 miles from our starting point and a good place to have lunch. There’s a cabin there that sleeps six and is open for winter use. We would use it on Sunday during our return trip to warm up.
Our trail speed was averaging around 2 mph up to this point, so we figured it would be dark by the time we slid into South Branch Pond campground. I hunkered down for the next leg of 4.6 miles to Trout Brook Crossing. Figuring I would be the slowest, I started out ahead of the rest. I was soon passed by Ryan Mahan, the youngest member of our band of six, whose smiling face greeted me when I slogged into the picnic area. Only 2.3 miles to go! The sun was setting and, indeed, darkness would surround us as we made it to camp.
A fire in the wood stove took away the post-ski chill as we settled into camp and a candle lantern-lit dinner made all the work worthwhile. The moonless night’s sky proved awe-inspiring as millions of jewels decorated the heavens. It was a perfect ending to a long, adventuresome day.
Saturday’s sunny weather and brisk breezes provided the perfect companions for exploring the area. Three of us tromped on snowshoes up into the Howe Falls Brook Trail while the other three took on part of the North Traveler Trail. Francoeur and I walked on to Upper South Branch Pond to take in the view of Center and Pinnacle Ridge and the northern side of Mount Katahdin in the distance.
Gathering and boiling water to drink occupied a chunk of camp time, but there was plenty of time for good conversation, cocktails and hearty meals (mostly dehydrated). A sunset jaunt up to the ledges behind camp proved rejuvenating for many in our band.
After a sauna like night in camp (that stove throws off heat!), we rose bright and early to pack and begin our return trek. Snow, heavy at times, and aching muscles supplied the day’s challenges. The return, counting rest stops, took us six hours.
Jeff Strout’s column is published on Thursdays. He can be reached at 990-8202 or by e-mail at jstrout@bangordailynews.net.
Dry socks and perseverance
While this was my first winter outdoor expedition, I didn’t really know what to expect. I read through gear lists and tip sheets and also visited lots of Web sites to get better acquainted with packing and preparing for winter adventures, but nothing in this world beats experience.
My biggest concern going into this trip was the physical stamina it would require to ski into the South Branch Pond. I kept thinking that if I could keep myself moving at a steady pace I would be fine.
Moving wasn’t the problem. My freezing, cold feet were! Regardless of how many socks I put on or took off, I had trouble keeping them dry and warm. Cold, wet feet lead to real chills and potential hypothermia.
And the trail was long – so long. The ski out was the biggest challenge for me. The snow and wind began to pick up and quickly elevate from just kissing my face to beating and whipping me. I began to shiver. Had to keep moving. I don’t know if I was ever in any real danger. I kept up a positive attitude and a steady pace. Those things, in addition to an extremely supportive and prepared group (who kept me in dry socks), made the weekend a success. On this trip I gained some valuable experience and the all-important realization that dry socks and a positive attitude will take you far in any adventure!
-Angela S. Cole
Assistant director for medical studies and the sciences, Bates College
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