ENOTECA: SIMPLE, DELICIOUS RECIPES IN THE ITALIAN WINE BAR TRADITION, by Joyce Goldstein, Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 2001, 196 pages, $24.95.

I scrape myself up onto the stool next to you.

“Don’t mind if I sit here do you?” I ask, dropping my last, crushed $5 bill onto the sticky counter and twitching a finger at the surly barman, hovering in the gloom.

You don’t reply, except by dropping your eyes to your shrinking drink.

“Hey, let me tell you a story,” I say.

Just the other day, the better half and I swung into a likely looking parking lot, fronting a bar and a smattering of painted garden tables. The shade of a tree fell across the flaking paint of one table, and it looked the perfect spot for a small lemonade or some such. A chat in the easy breeze of a Maine summer.

We made our way into the air-con of the bar, a place lighted only with red neon and the swirl of a huge television tuned to a game. Leaning against the bar, I ordered a couple of the aforementioned cold ones and was met with a loosely hostile stare from the immobile barman. “I need to see some I.D.,” he growled.

With our cards produced and a grudging shrug, our drinks appeared. We swept them up, and went to vacate the bored stares and the babbling tube, for our table in the shade, but were pulled up short yet again by the barman. “No drinking outside.”

“But, the tables,” I sputter.

“Only open for parties.”

We slumped in a dismal corner.

This is the problem with American bars, and I blame the Puritans myself. The shame of consuming alcohol was long ago allowed to crush the pleasures that are taken for granted in mainland European nations.

In America, drinking is done in swift shots or guzzled beers. It’s done in darkened, uninviting rooms, hidden from the respectable world. It’s done to the background of raging televisions, or nagging, looping jukeboxes.

In Europe, drinking is done in lazy sips of a local wine, or swigs of bottled lagers. It’s done on terraces and under awnings, watching the world drift by. It’s done to the background of laughter, conversation and friendly argument.

All right, I’m being unfair here to all American drinking establishments, of which there are many fine ones. I’m also being far too fair to some of the worse European drinking establishments, of which there are also many. But reading through “Enoteca: Simple, delicious recipes in the Italian wine bar tradition,” by Joyce Goldstein certainly solidifies prejudices, with its lyrical history of the tradition of Italian enoteca.

From the days of the Romans to the impossible bustle of modern Rome, the enoteca has provided an oasis from the grind of the day and a home to dozens of great local wines and equally fine regional snacks to lubricate and fortify an easy atmosphere that epitomizes la dolce vita. With this book, a little culinary skill and a visit to a well-stocked wine merchant, we can now re-create the joys of such establishments in our own homes.

There is little doubt that the recipes in this book are authentic. Many of the recipes were collected personally by Goldstein on her travels throughout Italy, and her many accompanying stops at local enoteca to sample some of the local fare. Many more were the result of a request she made by mail to 180 enoteca across Italy.

What we end up with is a marvelous collection of what would often be defined as “finger foods,” with breads, pastries, pastas, fritters and cheeses all jostling to catch our eye.

And we should pay attention. After all, what better accompaniment could there be for a medium-bodied red, such as a Pinot Noir, than a small bowl of Little Pork Meatballs from Bari, and a still-warm hunk of Harvest Grape Focaccia? The meatballs, simply flavored with pecorino and parsley, soak away their crisp coat in a spinach and tomato sauce, which in turn is whisked up by the sweet, crusty Tuscan bread.

And you’ll never consider white Zin and peanuts a decent enough night out after picking through a chewy pile of Baked Clams with Oregano, sipping Prosecco or Vinho Verde.

While authenticity is certainly one of the goals in this book, practicality is another. Goldstein has done her best to ensure that most ingredients are easily tracked down in the local supermarket, and preparations are often kept minimal.

But while the food takes center stage in this book, equally important, if not more so, to the tradition of the enoteca is the wine.

Luckily, Goldstein is the mother of a master sommelier, Evan Goldstein, and takes full advantage of this, having Evan offer his choices for the best wines to accompany each recipe, and further offering “matching pointers” for those who prefer just a little guidance as to what might complement the dish.

Add to this the mouth-watering photos (by Angela Wyant) scattered through the book’s crisp, square pages, and “Enoteca” is a book that is perfect for coffee table or kitchen, and should be seriously considered by those with a serious interest in Italian wine, or the country’s simple regional snacks.

I, for one, like the book, and love its blueprint for a brighter way of socializing.

“I mean, doesn’t that sound like the way things should be?” I say to you, backhanding away the bowl of stale pretzels that looms on the bar.

You squint through the gloom, deep into the last finger of bourbon in your glass, tighten your lips and nod, almost imperceptibly.

I shrug myself off the stool, and am about to leave, when you turn to me and smile for the first time. Then you turn to the barman, who’s been lurking just around the edge of earshot, and speak. “Mr Barman,” you say. “Tear down these dark drapes.”

Little Pork Meatballs from Bari

1 cup ground meat, part veal and part pork, or all pork

1 cup fresh breadcrumbs, soaked in broth, milk, or water, then squeezed dry

? cup grated pecorino cheese

6 tablespoons chopped, fresh, flat-leaf parsley

2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced

1 or 2 eggs, lightly beaten

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil for frying

Optional greens:

2 pounds spinach or Swiss chard, large stems removed

2 tablespoons olive oil

11/2 cups chopped onion

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup tomato sauce (recipe below)

1 cup meat stock

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the meatballs, combine the meat, breadcrumbs, cheese, parsley and garlic in a bowl. Mix in one egg. If the mixture seems dry, add the second egg. Season with salt and pepper. Fry a nugget of the mixture to test the seasoning. When you are happy with the flavors, form the mixture into walnut-sized balls.

Pour olive oil to the depth of 1/4 inch into a large saute pan and place over high heat. When the olive oil is hot, add the meatballs and fry, turning as necessary, until golden on the outside. If you are serving them plain, continue frying them until cooked through, about 10 minutes. If you are combining them with the greens, remove from the heat.

If serving with the greens, rinse the greens well, then place in a large saute pan with only the rinsing water still clinging to the leaves. Place over a medium heat and cook, turning as needed, until wilted, three to five minutes. Transfer to a colander and drain well, pressing with the back of a spoon. Chop coarsely, squeeze dry, and set aside.

Warm the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and saute until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the tomato sauce, stock, and lemon zest and bring to a simmer. Add the browned meatballs and simmer for several minutes until cooked through. Add the cooked greens and simmer for a minute or two longer until heated through. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve hot or warm.

(Serves 6)

Tomato Sauce

1 can (28 ounces) plum tomatoes with their juice

1/2 cup tomato puree

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces (optional)

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (optional)

Pinch of sugar

6 fresh basil leaves, chopped (optional)

1/2 to 3/4 cup heavy cream (optional)

Place the tomatoes and their juices in a food processor and process until finely chopped but not liquefied. Transfer to a heavy saucepan. Stir in the tomato puree and place over low heat. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring often, until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. If desired, stir in the butter or olive oil for a smoother finish, and the sugar and basil if needed to balance the flavors. For a richer, sweeter, thinner sauce, stir in the cream.

Harvest Grape Focaccia

Sponge:

2 teaspoons active dry yeast

1/2 cup warm water

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 cup all purpose flour

Dough:

3/4 cup of water

3 tablespoons walnut oil

1 teaspoon salt

3 ? cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary (optional)

Topping:

Walnut oil for brushing

1 cup coarsely chopped toasted walnuts or hazelnuts

2 cups seedless red grapes, halved lengthwise

1/4 cup of sugar

To make the sponge, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water in a large bowl and let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add the sugar and flour and stir to combine. Cover and let stand at room temperature until bubbly, about 30 minutes.

To make the dough, add the water, walnut oil, salt, flour, and the rosemary, if using, to the sponge and stir until the dough comes together. Turn out onto a floured work surface and knead until soft and smooth, about 10 minutes. Form into a ball, place in an oiled bowl, cover the bowl with a towel, and let the dough rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about an hour.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, punch down, and form into an 11-by-18-inch rectangle. Transfer to an oiled baking sheet. Cover the dough with a towel and let rise until doubled in bulk, 15 to 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

To top the dough, brush it with a little walnut oil and dimple the surface with your fingers at regular intervals, forming shallow indentations. Top with the nuts and grapes, pushing the grape halves into the dough and spacing them evenly. Sprinkle with the sugar.

Bake until golden and the sugar is slightly caramelized, 12 to 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into squares.

Baked Clams with Oregano

2 cups diced coarse country bread (crusts removed)

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, or olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus pepper to taste

24 medium-sized or large soft-shell clams, well scrubbed

1/2 cup dry white wine or water

4 cloves garlic, finely minced

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 teaspoons dried oregano

Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

Lemon wedges

First make the toasted breadcrumbs: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Pulse the bread cubes in a food processor until you have fine crumbs. Spread the breadcrumbs on a baking sheet. Drizzle evenly with the butter or oil, and sprinkle with the salt and half teaspoon of pepper. Toss well to coat. Bake, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and measure out about one cup of the crumbs. Reserve any leftover crumbs for another use. Raise the oven temperature to 450 degrees F., or preheat the broiler.

Combine the clams and wine or water in a large saute pan. Cover, place over high heat and steam, shaking the pan a few times until the clams open, just a few minutes. They should barely crack open. Do not overcook. Using a slotted utensil, transfer the clams, draining them well over the pan, to a large platter or tray. Discard any that failed to open.

Pour the liquid in the pan through a cheesecloth-lined sieve placed over a bowl. Discard the top shell from each clam and, using a small knife, detach the clam from the bottom shell, leaving it resting in the shell. Divide the clams among four gratin dishes, overlapping them a bit to keep them from tipping over. (Use flameproof dishes if broiling.) Drizzle evenly with the strained clam liquid.

In a small bowl, stir together the 1 cup of breadcrumbs, garlic, parsley, and oregano. Sprinkle an equal amount of the crumb mixture over each clam. Top each clam with a few grindings of pepper and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil.

Bake or broil until the crumbs are golden, 3 or 4 minutes. Serve immediately with the lemon wedges.

(Serves 4)