Contemporary comfort Couple’s ‘hub of the universe’ Blue Hill restaurant

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Tom and Jaci Hancock left high-stress jobs in Baltimore and moved to coastal Maine two years ago in search of a “more quiet, subdued lifestyle.”

But that’s not exactly how one would describe their frenetic lives as resident-owners, chefs, waiters and dishwashers at their restaurant, Hancock’s of Blue Hill.

“We wanted to be our own bosses – now we find out that we have the toughest, most demanding bosses that we’ve ever had in our lives,” Tom said with a smile.

The couple spends most mornings in their kitchen, slicing vegetables and seasoning sauces so Jaci can prepare each meal to order when the lunch rush begins. When the evening dinner cleanup is completed, the Hancocks head to their upstairs apartment to get some sleep, so they can bring the kitchen to life again the next day.

“This is the hub of the universe,” Jaci said of her kitchen, its white walls decorated with photographs of the family’s two West Highland terriers, Asta and Hamish. “Some days at lunch, this place is like a zoo. The only thing that’s predictable [about the restaurant business] is how unpredictable it is.”

Just surviving the first year is a battle for first-time restaurateurs in the competitive coastal market. But Hancock’s will celebrate its second anniversary this week at a time of the year when many eating establishments have long since shut for the season.

The cozy restaurant in the electric-blue house has found its niche.

Hancock’s isn’t a white-tablecloth kind of place, but it’s a far cry from the corner diner. Frying is not permitted, and fresh produce comes directly from local farmers. Every dish is made from scratch, seasoned and garnished before it leaves the kitchen. And, the restaurant has a diverse selection of wine and beer.

It’s gourmet food without a gourmet attitude.

With a good selection of local seafood, as well as sinful desserts and a nicely balanced wine list, dinner at Hancock’s is special, but two can dine well for far below three figures.

“It’s what we like as customers – good service but not fussy service,” Tom said.

Jaci’s blue-plate specials include such steadfast favorites as macaroni and cheese or meatloaf with garlic mashed potatoes. Local farm-raised salmon is given an Asian twist with a ginger soy glaze, or mixed into a dill-seasoned cake served with hot tomato chutney.

During the busy lunch period, Jaci offers a selection of salads, sandwiches and soups with the same flair of creative seasonings that keeps her ever-evolving dinner menu interesting.

“We like to do traditional New England food, then tweak it a little bit,” Jaci said. “Tom calls it contemporary comfort food.”

The sunken dining room, too, is comforting, with braided wool rugs warming the floor and a wood stove burning in the corner. Local artists’ works line the walls, and a baby grand dominates the room, waiting for jazz pianist Allen Clayton’s regular Sunday brunch performances. Guitarist Chris Poulin often plays the first Sunday of each month.

“We really wanted people to be able to relax and feel comfortable,” Jaci said.

Regular customers travel from throughout Hancock County, and from as far away as Bangor and Camden. A couple from Alaska even writes to the Hancocks between visits to Blue Hill.

Lifelong Blue Hill resident and weekly Hancock’s diner Norma Ricker likes the atmosphere so much that she brings her large family to dine whenever they visit. Her daughter’s fiance proposed in Hancock’s dining room.

“It’s nice and quiet, with the music in the background,” Ricker said. “The tomato soup is out of this world – it’s definitely my favorite place.”

The Hancocks have sent out roots into the community, dealing with local businesses such as Nervous Nellie’s Jams and Jellies in Deer Isle, Rackliffe Pottery in Blue Hill and organic farmers Eliot Coleman and Barbara Damrosch in Brooksville.

Local artists and craftspeople are invited to show their work in the small gallery that fills Hancock’s entrance, or to perform their music in the dining room. And Jaci’s takeout baked goods – everything from her mother’s cheesecake to fudgey brownies and special holiday gingerbread people – draw passers-by who become customers, then regulars, then friends.

And with friends by their side, the Hancocks intend to keep their bright-red doors open for a long time to come.

“We made a life change, and this business is part of how we wanted to live our life here,” Tom said. “We’re here for the long haul.”

Hancock’s of Blue Hill is open for lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. every day but Tuesday. Sunday brunch with live music runs from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner is served Thursday, Friday and Saturday night from 4:30 with a last seating at 6:30 p.m. Dinner and brunch reservations are recommended. For information call 374-3272.

Gingered Carrot-Orange Soup

(Inspired by the “Moosewood Restaurant Cookbook”)

2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

4 cups water

1 tablespoon oil or butter

11/2 cups chopped onion

2 teaspoons fresh minced garlic

1 tablespoon and 2 teaspoons dry ginger

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon (heaping) each; allspice, cinnamon, cumin, fennel seed

21 ounces orange juice

1 tablespoon and 1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/4 cup chopped unsalted peanuts, lightly toasted

chopped peanuts and sour cream for garnish

Bring carrots in water to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer 15-20 minutes. Heat oil or butter in a skillet and saute onions on medium heat for 5 minutes then add garlic, ginger, salt and spices. Saute on low until onions are soft. Stir in lemon juice. Add contents of skillet to carrots and water, add orange juice. Bring to a boil, simmer briefly, then cool. Puree soup in food processor. Puree peanuts with a bit of soup, and add. Reheat to serve, adding water to thin if necessary, garnish with chopped peanuts and sour cream.

Cranberry Peppercorn Dressing

11/2 ounces peppercorn melange (mix of black, white, pink and green peppercorns)

6 cups water

2 ounces red wine vinegar

7 ounces sugar

2 tablespoons lemon juice

12 ounces frozen cranberries

zest of 1 orange

6 ounces balsamic vinegar

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 ounces safflower oil

Cook peppercorns and water in a skillet over medium heat until soft. Add all remaining ingredients but oil to skillet. Cook until cranberries soften and split. Cool mixture, then blend in food processor, slowly adding oil until emulsified.

Homestyle Meatloaf

4 ounces diced yellow onion

2 ounces diced celery

11/2 teaspoons chopped garlic

1/2 ounce oil

11/2 ounces bread crumbs

3 ounces tomato juice or V-8

1 pound 80 percent lean ground beef

1 pound ground pork

11/2 large eggs, beaten

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

11/2 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley

Saute vegetables in oil until soft. Cool, then combine with remaining ingredients. Pack into greased loaf pan. Bake at 350 degrees until internal temperature reaches 160 degrees (about an hour to 90 minutes). Let rest before slicing.

Hancock’s Brownies

11/4 pounds unsalted butter

softened (5 sticks)

5 cups sugar

11/4 teaspoon salt

8 large eggs

11/4 teaspoon vanilla

21/2 cups flour

2 cups unsweetened cocoa

powder (not Dutch process)

Cream butter and sugar. Add eggs a couple at a time, mix. Add vanilla. Sift flour and cocoa together, add, mix until incorporated. Smooth onto greased, wax or parchment paper-lined sheet pan. Add nuts to top if desired. Bake 40 minutes at 350 degrees. Cool before cutting. Leftovers can be frozen.