Q: I plant shrubs on my lawn and they do not grow. They don’t die, but they just stay the same height that they were when planted. According to instructions, they should grow about 1 foot per year. What can I do to help them? I use Miracle-Gro and potting soil to start with, and Miracle-Gro weekly. I had the soil tested and it is good. – M.B.

A: Hmm. This is an interesting question. You were wise to test your soil first – many problems with plant growth arise as a result of poor soil. If fertility isn’t an issue because of your feeding efforts with Miracle-Gro, then the retention of nutrients in the soil around the roots of your shrubs could be a problem. However, if your test indicated that there is compatible soil mixture and adequate organic matter in the soil, then that probably isn’t the case – the soil probably is holding nutrients as potential food for your shrubs.

Check the light requirements for your shrubs. Are they planted in an environment that is agreeable with their needs? Plants that require full sun should be planted in a site that receives sunlight throughout the day. Plants that require partial shade should be planted in a place that received morning or afternoon sun. Full-shade plants shouldn’t receive direct sun – rather, they should be planted in an area that is exposed to filtered or dappled shade.

One problem could be that your plant’s roots are bound. Did you purchase the shrub potted? Were the roots tightly wound around the pot? If the roots aren’t loosened during transplanting they can continue their pattern of growth in a tight mat, never reaching out into the soil around the root ball. This lack of growth into the soil may prevent the shrub from growing.

Curiosity would get the better of me and I’d dig a shrub up to see what’s going on underground. If the shrubs don’t take off with some succulent new growth in spring, I’d recommend you do the same. Check to see if the roots of the plant are healthy and lush. If they appear discolored and damaged, they may be afflicted with disease. In general, diseased roots have a poor ability to acquire and transport nutrients, and this surely would impair growth of the plant’s shoots.

In any gardening situation it is prudent to use a simple rule in selecting plants: Choose a plant that suits the environment rather than manipulating the environment to suit the plant. In the case of your plants, it could be that they simply aren’t suited to the environment in which they have been placed. Do a environmental rundown, considering sunlight, soil type, moisture level and other environmental factors that seem appropriate, and question whether or not the shrubs are suited to the site. You might need to move them to another area of the yard.

Q: Should you cut the vines of clematis back to the ground or leave them in place for next year’s vines to grow upon? – D.B., Machiasport

A: It is recommended that the vines of clematis be cut back to about 6 inches.

Q: I have had extensive rodent damage to my fruit trees in winter. This year has been mild so far, but with the snow sure to come soon, I know my trees will be in danger again. How do I protect their trunks from the mice? – K.E., St. Albans

A: Mice tend to be led to the trunk of trees while feasting on fruit that have fallen from the branches. If your trees are mulched with bark, in autumn rake the mulch away from the tree trunk so that an 8- to 10-inch radius around each trunk is free from debris.

As snow falls throughout winter, compact the area around the tree trunk by stamping down on the snow. This will go far in preventing mice from reaching the tender trunks of young trees and munching on that vital bark.

Diana George Chapin is the NEWS garden columnist. Send horticulture questions to Gardening Questions, RR1, Box 2120, Montville 04941, or e-mail them to dianagc@ctel.net. Selected questions will be answered in future columns. Include name, address and telephone number.