Candy land Lost in a peppermint forest? Recycle those canes

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Peppermint-flavored candy canes have long been a holiday treat. Adults and children seem to relish their sweet and minty flavors. Our family decks the Christmas tree, decorates presents and stuffs stockings with some form of the red-and-white, gaily striped candy. My culinary dilemma at the end of the…
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Peppermint-flavored candy canes have long been a holiday treat. Adults and children seem to relish their sweet and minty flavors. Our family decks the Christmas tree, decorates presents and stuffs stockings with some form of the red-and-white, gaily striped candy. My culinary dilemma at the end of the season has been finding ways to use what my frugal Maine sensibilities just won’t let me throw out.

As a young bride, when I first pondered the problem of what to do with the leftover candy canes, my husband’s nostalgic response was, “Make cookies, just like my mother always did.” Graciously my mother-in-law shared the recipe for Candy Chippers with me, and for the past 25 years, our family has enjoyed her version of a peppermint-packed chocolate chip cookie.

When I opened my restaurant, my repertoire expanded to include Candy Cane Mousse. This refreshingly delicate and light dessert is pretty spooned into a crystal wine glass, and would be the perfect ending to an elegant dinner party. For those who prefer their doses of peppermint cold, there is always Peppermint Stick Ice Cream.

Our recent family favorite is Candy Cane Bark, a three-layered confection of bittersweet chocolate and white chocolate topped with crushed candy canes. Packed in a pretty tin, it makes a lovely gift. Candy Cane Bark keeps well for several weeks, but I guarantee that it won’t last that long, as the combination of flavors is addictive.

Candy Cane Mousse

4 tablespoons butter

5 eggs

1 cup sugar

11/2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin

3/4 cup crushed candy canes

1/2 teaspoon peppermint extract

11/2 cups heavy cream, chilled

Melt butter in a double boiler over simmering water. In a separate bowl, beat eggs with sugar and then add gelatin. Add egg mixture to melted butter, and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened, about 6 to 8 minutes. Remove the mixture from heat. Add half-teaspoon peppermint extract and stir well. Cool mixture for a few minutes, then refrigerate until the mixture just starts to set. While the mixture is in the refrigerator, whip the cream. Gently fold cream into the set-up egg mixture, then fold in the crushed candy canes. Chill until completely set, at least four hours.

Spoon the mousse into individual serving glasses. You may sprinkle the tops with a little shaved chocolate.

Makes 8 servings.

This is really a good, old-fashioned cookie with the crisp, spicy snap of peppermint teamed with semisweet chocolate.

Munsie’s Candy Chippers

1/2 cup butter

1/4 cup brown sugar

1/2 cup white sugar

1 egg

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup sifted flour

1/2 cup crushed candy canes

1 cup chocolate chips (one 6-ounce package)

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

Cream butter and sugar. Beat in egg and vanilla. Stir in baking soda, chocolate chips, flour, walnuts and candy canes. Drop by teaspoon onto cookie sheet and bake in preheated 375 degree oven for 8-10 minutes. Let cool on rack and store in a tin.

Makes about 4 dozen.

Who can resist peppermint stick ice cream? This custard-style ice cream can be enjoyed in the winter as well as the summer.

Peppermint Stick Ice Cream

11/2 cups milk

1 tablespoon corn starch

3/4 cup crushed candy canes

1/2 cup cold milk

2 egg yolks, slightly beaten

2 cups cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 teaspoon peppermint extract

Heat 11/2 cups milk in double boiler on top of stove. Stir in crushed candy canes. Whisk the corn starch into the cold milk, then slowly add to the hot milk. Cook and stir over the hot water for 10 minutes, then whisk in the egg yolks. Cook for 2 minutes. Remove from double boiler, let cool slightly, then add cream and flavorings. Refrigerate mixture until cool, then freeze in an ice cream freezer according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Makes about 3 pints.

Water and high humidity are not good friends of chocolate, so don’t make this candy on a rainy or snowy day. The preparation of Candy Cane Bark involves tempering chocolate. Chocolate tempering, although not extremely difficult, is an exact process that requires a good candy thermometer. (My preference would be a digital one.)

By tempering the chocolate, rather than just melting it, you facilitate the production of beta chocolate crystals. These beta crystals give the chocolate its shiny appearance and characteristic snap. Several contemporary authors, including Julia Child in her book on baking and Rose Levy Beranbaum in “The Cake Bible,” describe the tempering process. My favorite scientific explanation is by Shirley O. Corriher, in her book “Cook Wise.”

If you enjoy candy-making and intend to do it often, I recommend investing in a chocolate tempering machine (Santa suggests Cakes by Jan or through Williams-Sonoma catalogs). Candy Cane Bark also may be prepared with semisweet or milk chocolate on the bottom layer, though I personally prefer the contrast of the bittersweet with the white chocolate and peppermint flavors.

Candy Cane Bark

11/2 pounds bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, melted and tempered

1 pound white chocolate, melted and tempered

12 candy canes (6 ounces net weight), crushed

Line an 11-inch-by-17-inch cookie pan with waxed paper or parchment paper.

Unwrap candy canes, place in a plastic bag and crush with a hammer.

To melt and temper the chocolate:

Using a double boiler on top of the stove, melt approximately 1 pound of the bittersweet chocolate, stirring constantly. Bring the dark chocolate to 118 to 120 degrees F, being careful not to get it over 120 degrees. Remove the bowl from the double boiler, wipe the water from the bowl. Cool the chocolate to 80 degrees F, by adding the remaining half-pound piece of chocolate and stirring constantly. For the tempering process to be effective, there can be no remaining pieces of unmelted chocolate. If you add the chocolate in one or two large lumps, they are easier to remove as the chocolate gets close to 80 degrees. This process of cooling the chocolate will take some time, at least 15 minutes. If the chocolate cools below 77 degrees, you will need to bring it back to 118 degrees and start over.

Once the chocolate has been cooled to 80 degrees, return it to the double boiler and reheat it to 91 degrees F. Remove the bowl from the double boiler and wipe all water from the bowl. Spread the chocolate evenly in the cookie pan.

Using a double boiler on top of the stove, melt approximately two-thirds pound of the white chocolate and bring it to 116 to 118 degrees F. Remove from the double boiler, wipe the bottom of the bowl, and cool the chocolate to 80 degrees F by stirring in the remaining one-third pound of white chocolate. Return the bowl to the double boiler and bring the white chocolate up to 85 to 87 degrees F. Remove the bowl from the double boiler and wipe all the moisture from the bowl.

Using the tines of a fork, gently rough up the surface of the dark chocolate. Use a pastry brush to carefully brush away the dark chocolate crumbs. Spread the white chocolate evenly over the bittersweet layer. Sprinkle the crushed candy canes evenly over the surface, and, using clean hands or a spatula, press the candy canes into the white chocolate.

Although the bark will appear ready to eat within a few hours, the ideal state for chocolate is reached after the bark has set up for 18-24 hours. Break the candy cane bark into pieces, and store in a dry tin.


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