Step by step, machine by machine, sportsmen have become more dependent over the last 30 years on technology to support outdoor ventures. Four-wheel-drive trucks, snowmobiles, bigger outboard motors, fancy beeping LCD fish finders, motorized ice augers, four-wheelers, elaborate boats and global positioning systems (GPS are just a handful of the modern machines the outdoorsmen of the new millennium use.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not ready to give up my 4×4 truck for a standard two-wheel-drive when I venture into the backwoods on rough roads. Nor am I anxious to resort to drilling ice fishing holes with a hand auger again, but I firmly hold fast to certain outdoor traditions.

I have been snowshoeing since I was in grade school. Anyplace in the U.S. with a winter will also have snowshoeing.

Centuries ago in Maine it was a necessity and a way of life for woodsmen, but now it’s more of a pastime, a form of exercise, a unique style of recreational travel and a sport for the few who still race on this unwieldy footwear. The art of building and using snowshoes is part of our ancestry, and the state of Maine’s heritage, and should not be forgotten or ignored.

In this era of modern marvels, snowshoes can still be a crucial tool to sportsmen as well, as a recent incident demonstrates. Five of us ventured out to Cochran Lake in New Limerick three weeks ago to enjoy a day of ice fishing. One pair unloaded a snowmobile from their pickup and set out to make a trail across the ice to a smelt hut. Not 25 yards from the shoreline the sled bogged down. Our trio went to help get the snowmobile unstuck only to discover that under the 8- to 12-inch snow cover lay at least four inches of water on the ice surface. Fortunately, we all had high, waterproof boots, but it was hard going in the deep, wet slush.

After a couple more starts, stops and bog-downs it was obvious the snowmobile wasn’t going anywhere but back to the truck. We were sweaty, snowy, irritated and very thankful when it was finally back on the pickup. A couple of us had thrown in a pair of snowshoes, more out of habit than truly thinking we might use them. They were a blessing for breaking trails for the tote sleds loaded with gear, and traveling on top of the snow was so much easier on our legs.

The guys who had to wade in the wet slush – and it got worse around the tip-ups where trails were worn – toughed it out but had a fairly unpleasant day. The conclusion was that everyone would own a pair of snowshoes before the week was out. It’s so much better to have them and not need them, than vice versa. The question is, how does a newcomer to snowshoeing know what size, style and design to purchase?

Styles and sizes

Buying a pair of snowshoes is like purchasing art. First you have to decide if you’re a traditionalist or modernist. Traditional snowshoes are constructed of wooden frames, generally white ash, rawhide lacing and leather bindings, and are available in several sizes. Although most traditional snowshoes are manufactured in bulk in factories, quite a few artisans across the U.S. still custom-build traditional snowshoes, and Maine has a number of experienced craftsmen.

For simplicity, wood and leather traditional snowshoes are built in four basic categories: Yukon, Ojibwa, beavertail and bearpaw. The Yukon has a 10- to 12-inch width and a 42- to 62-inch length, with a very high, 6- to 8-inch toe turn-up. Best in open country and deep snow, their narrow width is good for traversing or descending steep slopes and the high toe curve rarely catches in crust or deep snow. Also known as Alaskan or cross-country, these shoes are heavy for small-bodied people and maneuver poorly in close quarters.

The Ojibwa is long and narrow like the Yukon, except it is pointed at both ends. The pointy front end pushes through the brush better that the rounded styles and less snow piles up on the tips. Due to the pointed tip and tail, construction isn’t as solid as rounded models, nor are they as stable when walking. Ojibwas are generally only built by regional craftsmen and native Americans, and aren’t often seen out on the trail.

Bearpaws are short and wide, with rounded tails – kind of like a very flat egg. They are 12 to 14 inches wide and about 30 inches long, with no upward bend at the toe or tail. Built for easy travel in thick woods or brush, these are favorites of hunters and trappers. Compact size allows easy storage and backpacking when not in use, but the flat styling requires attention when walking and a good bit of practice to prevent the toe from catching under the snow with each stride.

The pair of snowshoes I own and have used for more than 30 years are called beavertail. They are the most popular of the traditional styles. Also known as the Maine, Michigan or Huron model, they are 16 to 20 inches wide and 38 to 48 inches long, with a toe rise of about four inches. These are great shoes for large people or those who pack heavy loads on their backs, like trappers or winter campers might. Their configuration allows easy travel up and down steep slopes, and offers a very stable walking platform, even in light, soft snow.

High-tech travel

Gaining popularity with the new generation of novice recreational snowshoer are the Western models. Made of tubular aircraft aluminum frames and a thin, solid, synthetic polyurethane type decking that is riveted or laced directly to the frame, they are smaller and lighter than most wooden snowshoes. Sizes range from 8×22 to 12×36 and they have a high toe turn-up (4-plus inches), and a short toe section. The short toe and longer tail section configuration on any snowshoe causes the front to automatically tip up with each step and make it less likely to catch a toe and take a tumble. Unlike traditional wooden snowshoes, most Western style shoes have a claw or cleat attached under the foot support to increase traction and deter slipping on ice, crusty snow and steep slopes.

Snowshoe sizes are selected according to the height and weight of the wearer, as well as the terrain where hiking is to be done. Snow conditions must also be considered. In the end, the style will be a matter of personal preference, and price to a certain extent. Plan on spending a minimum of $75 for youth models and small sizes and up to $300 for the very top-of-the-line modern, high tech varieties.

Buckle up

The harness or binding is what attaches the foot to the snowshoe and its configuration and fit are essential to comfort and ease of walking. Almost all Western models have factory equipped bindings bolted or riveted to the frame and crosspieces and are not changeable. A good harness will hinge freely, allowing the heel to rise as the boot toe pivots downward with the toe hole with each step.

The binding will strictly limit lateral motion or slippage of the foot, such that any way the foot turns the snowshoe will also turn precisely with less than an inch of leeway. No forward or backward foot slippage can be tolerated, either, as this makes going down slopes dangerous and moving up slopes too much work.

On wooden-framed snowshoes, there can be no slack in the harness around the boot or where it attaches to the crosspiece of the snowshoe. Strap on the snowshoe and take out any slack and make adjustments before starting the hike. Harnesses do stretch and wear, so check it again after the first few hundred yards and readjust as needed. After a few outings you will be able to tell if the fit is correct after only a few steps.

No matter what kind of bindings you use, it’s imperative to know the basis of quick, easy adjustment of all buckles and straps. Because of the multitude of different harnesses available, carefully read and practice the manufacturer’s instructions or have the personnel where you buy the snowshoes explain and demonstrate proper attachment before you hit the trail. Once adjusted, some harnesses have a single heel snap for easy placement and removal of the binding and these are a great advantage.

Care & repair

Snowshoe care is minimal. Modern styles require maintenance only in the rare event that something breaks, and the repair is best accomplished at the factory or by a trained technician with the right parts and tools. Wood and rawhide models require little special treatment either, other than checks for wear and a bit of varnish to reseal such spots. Waxed bindings will generally outlast the owner. They may be stored inside or out, as long as they’re out of the rain and direct sunlight, and keep the shoes away from mice, rats, squirrels and chipmunks which like to nibble on the rawhide.

Walk the walk

Walking on snowshoes simply requires practice and acclimation to the new footwear and snow conditions. Wear lightweight insulated boots with rubber soles and don’t tuck trouser bottoms into boots or snow will fall in, melt and leave feet wet and cold. Some companies make high special high-top moccasins especially for snowshoeing.

Snowshoes are heavy and more tiring than walking in hiking boots, so begin with short outings on level ground. Regular strides are fine with narrow snowshoes but wider models require the wearer to swing the foot outward a bit with each step so the edges don’t overlap and catch. It’s a side-to-side ambling gait that becomes quite comfortable after a few weeks. Once the stepping is conquered on flat ground it’s time to try hills and uneven terrain. Beginners and older snowshoes find a set of ski poles work well to maintain balance.

Snowshoeing is excellent winter exercise and on a decent day the sun and fresh air invigorates the body and refreshes the soul. Each winter month has a few good days for outdoor ventures, and March offers longer days and more sun. Recreational snowshoers can get into the woods and bird-watch or visit game trails to see deer, moose and other wild animals where they live. Ice anglers, hunters, campers and snowmobilers should have at hand, and be comfortable with, snowshoes for day to day ease of travel, and just in case of a breakdown of the normal means of travel.

Snowshoeing isn’t just a mode of winter travel, it’s a Maine tradition.

Outdoor feature writer Bill Graves can be reached at graves@polarisumpi.maine.edu