Cold temperatures shouldn’t harm recently seen tulips

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Q. With the warm weather we had over the past few weeks, the leaves of my tulips came up about 6 inches. For several days, the temperature then dropped and the ground became frozen hard again. With this kill the tulips? – M.D., Searsmont A.
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Q. With the warm weather we had over the past few weeks, the leaves of my tulips came up about 6 inches. For several days, the temperature then dropped and the ground became frozen hard again. With this kill the tulips? – M.D., Searsmont

A. The thick, waxy leaves of tulips are made to endure the unpredictable elements of spring. Chances are they will pull through the variable weather just fine. If only leaves have emerged from the newly warmed soil, the flower buds of the plants are still tucked deep within those thick layers of leaves. Be hopeful that the showy blooms will soon poke through, no worse for the wear.

Q. Is it possible to grow lavender in Maine? – P.W., Burnham

A. Yes, it is. Lavender can survive the winter at least in Zone 4 and possibly in colder zones, depending on the level of protection it receives during the winter months. Plant lavender on the south or southeast side of your home for the best chances of survival.

Alternatively, in difficult areas ‘Lady’ lavender can be grown and treated like an annual, because it produces flowers in the first year when grown from seed. This characteristic allows the gardener to reap the perfumed flowers and leaves in the first year without the worry of winter mortality.

Q. What’s the difference between English sweet peas, snow peas and snap peas? What’s the best way to support peas? – M.V., Steuben

A. Snap and snow peas have edible pods and seeds, English sweet peas do not. Snap peas are sweet and crunchy. They may be harvested when the pods are plump with ripe, juicy peas or may be eaten unshelled. Snow peas are often used in Oriental cuisine and are harvested and eaten when the pod is flat and without mature peas inside.

An excellent way to support peas is to form a trellis with 2-inch-by-2-inch stakes and chicken wire. Simply anchor 4- to 5-foot-tall stakes in the ground at each end of the row of peas. Cut a length of chicken wire that measures the distance between the stakes. Staple one end of the wire to one stake and the other end of the wire to the second stake.

Netting is sold for supporting peas, but chicken wire is a readily available, inexpensive alternative. Twine may be used in place of chicken wire. The twine should be strung horizontally from the top of one stake to the top of the other, and from the bottom of one stake to the bottom of the other. Vertical lengths of twine should be knotted to and strung between the two horizontal twines at 6-inch intervals.

Q. I recently moved into a home with a lot of old roses around the foundation. Should I remove all the old fruits from the tops of the stems before the leaves come out this spring? There are very large clusters of fruits hanging from the stems. – A.N., Lincoln

A. Removing the fruits – or hips, as they are called on roses – is a good idea. Although most roses won’t suffer from problems, there is a chance that the decaying fruits harbor fungal diseases that could spread to the leaves. Sanitation through removal of the potentially hazardous decaying hips is the best way to minimize chances of a fungal infection on the leaves.

Diana George Chapin is the NEWS garden columnist. Send horticulture questions to Gardening Questions, RR1, Box 2120, Montville 04941, or e-mail them to dianagc@midcoast.com. Selected questions will be answered in future columns. Include name, address and telephone number.


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