Ferry ride prelude to weekend’s work Trip to study harlequin ducks brings opportunity to see other birds in action

The weekend started out perfectly for our trip to Isle au Haut. We were going to assist biologist Glen Mittelhauser in his study of harlequin ducks on the island’s coast, and the journey there was a tantalizing hint of what was to come.

The 30- to 45-minute ferry ride from Stonington could not have been more enjoyable; the water was calm and filled with wildlife. Scores of common loons lounged on the ocean’s surface or dove for food, appearing and disappearing in a flash. It was interesting to see each in different stages of their winter molt; some had completely changed over, while others looked as if they had just started.

Black guillemots were the next most common bird we saw. These small water birds are in the Alcid family, which includes puffins, auks, murres, and dovekies. In summer they are all black except for an elongated white patch on their wings; in winter, they fade to a more uniform gray and white. In both plumages, their white wing patches are easily seen, as are their shockingly red feet. The latter become visible when the bird flies or dives; if one is lucky enough to get close, they are just visible beneath the surface. They always remind me of big clown shoes.

As we drew near to Isle au Haut, rafts of common eider ducks appeared near the numerous, small islands in the bay. Some of the birds busied themselves by preening, while others rested with their heads tucked into their feathers. They seemed as if they were strung along invisible lines attached to the rocky tips of the islands; swaying gently with the swells and stirred by the tide, they nonetheless managed to remain loosely connected to one another.

A small flock of female red-breasted mergansers took flight as we passed by them; they didn’t much like our proximity. Surf scoters appeared, some in small groups and others mixed in with the eiders, as if they were hiding out. They weren’t quite able to blend in, though. Their bodies, entirely black except for two white patches on their heads, as well as bulbous bills, were easy to spot among the eiders.

Marine mammals also made an appearance. Harbor seals and an occasional gray seal watched us curiously as we motored by, and harbor porpoises surfaced and dove, turning like wheels in the sea.

As much as we looked forward to the rest of the weekend, we were sorry when the ferry nosed against the dock at Isle au Haut. Our regrets were short-lived, though, for as soon as we left the dock, we saw some immature white-crowned sparrows foraging alongside the road. Then, during our ride to our lodgings, we spotted many wild turkeys on the road. The birds were everywhere!

Our short ride ended as we drew up to the home of Debra Schrader and Dave Hiltz, friends of Glen’s and brave enough to open their home to a group of strangers. Deb would feed us delicious, nourishing meals throughout our weekend of bird study, and Dave would bring us back on his lobster boat Sunday evening. But before then, we had harlequins to spot and bands to read.

Next week: More about the trip and the harlequins.

Chris Corio, a volunteer at Fields Pond Nature Center in Holden, can be reached at fieldspond@juno.com