Even scraps of venison offer promise in end-of-season chili

The odds and ends of venison given to us last season are mounded in one unmarked package; that’s how we know they’re odds and ends. The foreleg was labeled, as were the neck roast and loin chops. The last of the Magic Marker packages went into a tasty stew, complete with onions, carrots, potatoes and an essential parsnip or two.

But this wrapping says nothing about the mystery meat inside, so its destination will be chili, from a 1996 recipe by David Burke of the Park Avenue Cafe:

“In a large pot over medium heat, melt 4 tablespoons butter and saute 1 red onion and 4 cloves minced garlic, stirring occasionally, 3-4 minutes. Stir in 4 tablespoons dark brown sugar and cook until onions and garlic brown slightly. Stir in 3 cups red wine, 4 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 4 tablespoons tomato paste and 4 cups chicken stock (adding 1 teaspoon cumin, 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 1/2 teaspoon chili powder, 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro and salt to taste). Bring to a simmer and cook until reduced by half, 30-35 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large fry pan over high heat, warm 4 tablespoons canola oil and fry 1 cup diced bacon until it browns. Push bacon to the side of the pan, add 2 pounds venison pieces. Brown the meat, stirring until any liquid has evaporated, about 20 minutes. Add 2 cups cooked black beans and toss mixture together. Transfer meat and bean mixture to sauce and stir. Bring to a simmer and cook until thickened, about 20 minutes. Serves 6. (If you serve over a bed of rice, serves 8.)”

Which brings us back to our empty larder, here at the peak of hunting season. The way we figure is: The larger the deer the more meat you will get in proportion to the rough-dressed weight. From one buck, weighing 156 pounds hog-dressed, the estimates would yield: roasts, 40 pounds; steaks, 21 pounds; chops, 21 pounds; neck roast, 10 pounds; stew meat and hamburger, 24 pounds; and heart and liver, 5 pounds. A total of 121 pounds of meat, 3/4 of the dressed weight. From a smaller deer, say, weighing 90 pounds, the yield may only be between 40 to 45 pounds of meat, approximately 1/2 the dressed weight.

We mention this to remind our friends and neighbors to stalk the biggest bucks (duh), so there will be plenty of venison for all. And use care with the critter as well as with his rack. As an expert once said: “If venison were handled like beef – if it were not shot several times, not dragged over the ground, not shipped unrefrigerated on the hood of an SUV – it would taste better.”

Never mind that lecture. Just remember the one that says it’s always pleasant to give something to people if they like it as much as you do, and this holds true for presents of venison.

You see, around this household the chances are nil of actually shooting a buck. So this may be yet another no-load hunting season. But we’re not against a freeload one, no sirree.