Patience key to lush gardens

Q: I’m fairly new to perennial gardening, but in five or six years I’ve managed to create a few small garden beds with lots of different types of plants. I still don’t seem to have the lush effect you see in photos in magazines. What is the secret to getting gardens that look like that? – B.H., Hinckley

A: There are probably many secrets to achieving the showiness of gardens we see in magazines, but here are a few points to ponder.

First, gardening, perennial gardening in particular, is both an art and a science. It may take years to grasp the art of placing and planting perennials in an arrangement that is favorable from many perspectives throughout the growing season.

Remember that perennials have a season of bloom: They may bloom in spring, early summer, midsummer, late summer or autumn, for example. Any given perennial should be planted not only with its season of bloom and flower color in mind, but with its mature height and foliage texture and color considered. The challenge of gardening with perennials is to plant in an arrangement that offers a complementary pattern and succession of blooms over the entire spectrum of our growing season – April to October.

As for planting techniques that maximize showiness, a good rule to follow if your garden size permits is to plant and mass together at least three and up to seven plants of a kind. This practice contributes to that effect adored in colorful gardens. A mass of three plants is much more lush and eye-catching than a single plant, even if that plant is in its best form.

Don’t forget to intersperse annuals in your perennial garden, particularly in the very front and very back of the bed. Whereas perennials have a distinct period of bloom, annuals bloom all summer long. Use annuals to provide color throughout the growing season and allow the perennials in the midground of your flower bed to shine at their peak.

In your quest for lush gardens, one pitfall to beware of is this: Do not be tempted to pack plants too closely together, thinking that tightly placed plants equate with massive, flourishing gardens. On the contrary, plants can achieve their best form only if allowed the necessary room to grow and thrive.

Along those same lines, be sure to provide the essential nutrients required by your plants. Soil fertility plays a major and fundamental role in the health and beauty of your garden. Fertilize and amend your soil as recommended by the results of a soil test. Testing is easy. For more information on testing, contact your local University of Maine Cooperative Extension Office.

Q: Can you grow rosemary from seed? Is that the best way to get a few plants? I’m interested in having it both as a houseplant and as a source of the fresh herb for cooking. – M.W., Stillwater

A: Rosemary may be propagated from seed, but that method is not the quickest or most reliable way to produce plants. Seed may germinate sporadically if not kept under optimal conditions. Germination takes place at about 55 degrees Fahrenheit, and may take 18 to 21 days. Rosemary should be grown only in light, well-drained, slightly moist soil. It prefers full sun or partial shade in the garden or a sunny window in the home.

Instead of starting plants from seed, you may consider buying mature plants, dividing an established one, or by taking root cuttings from a plant in summer. Start new plants from cuttings by snipping off 3-inch stem tips from a mature plant. Strip the leaves from the lower half-inch of the cutting and dip the end in rooting powder available at a garden supply store. Place the cuttings in a tray of growing medium and keep them misted until roots begin to develop. When a nice branching network of roots is visible, transplant the cuttings into individual potting containers.