Winter’s beauty is intense. Among the most striking beauties of winter are the majestic deciduous trees throughout the yards, streets, pastures and forests of our state. The nearly perfect symmetric branching pattern of a mature oak is as strikingly beautiful as the loveliest iris in the summer garden.

Winter is an excellent time to study the trees in your yard. Exposed to the scrutiny of every passer-by, trees seem particularly vulnerable this time of year. If trees have interesting winter features, such as striking bark or a pleasing shape, and if they are healthy and in good condition, they can be a joy as a focal point in the landscape during the winter months. If, however, we have never quite taken care of the now leafless plants, winter can reveal a lot about what has been neglected.

If you have unhealthy, dying or nonproductive trees in your landscape, you’ll want to dedicate serious effort to evaluating whether the tree should be pruned or removed from the landscape and replaced with a younger, more vigorous specimen. Investigate the individual condition of each tree. As you evaluate and prune, here are a few things to keep in mind:

. Study the tree before making any cuts. Decide what the tree needs and what the result should look like. Look at its branching pattern. Evaluate the condition of the branches, the proportion of alive to dying branches, and consider the species you are working with and what value it has in your landscape or to your family’s needs.

. If drastic pruning must be undertaken, don’t plan to do it all in one year. Set a two- or three-year course of action for trees that have never been pruned. Excessive pruning puts too much stress on a tree, especially if nutrients and water are lacking. Plan to take the pruning slowly, evaluating the tree’s response during the growing season to the work you’ve done over the winter.

. Make the proper type of cut. “Thinning cuts” are used to eliminate branches that are damaged, dying or diseased. A thinning cut is made when a branch is removed at the site where it originated as a bud. “Heading cuts” are used to cause more extensive branching (and a more bushy appearance) on a tree or shrub. A sound evaluation of the current state of growth and reflection on the desired appearance of the tree will help you decide what type of cut is appropriate for each branch that requires your attention.

. Cut properly. Cut the branch at the branch collar, the calloused area near (but not touching) the trunk of the tree or the original branch. At this location the tree can heal most effectively and quickly. For heavy branches, make a preliminary cut about a foot away from the trunk of the tree or original branch, and then cut the stub in the proper place to avoid tearing the tissue of the collar and the trunk of the tree.

. Don’t treat the wounds with a paint compound. Painting wounds or sealing them may retard the tree’s ability to fight off damaging bacteria and fungi. If properly cut with appropriate equipment, trees compartmentalize or “wall off” their wound sites very well without the application of compounds.

. Finally, remember safety. Never operate power tools or chainsaws overhead or without adequate safety equipment. Call a professional when a job is too big for you or when a tree is too close to utility lines.

It’s easy to focus on how trees benefit the landscape and to ignore the needs they may have. After all, they are pillars of the landscape, easily overlooked during the summer months when we focus on more colorful attractions. Pruning is perfect winter’s work! Don your warm clothing and sharp saw, and treat your trees to a healthful winter trim.

Diana George Chapin is the NEWS garden columnist. Send horticulture questions to Gardening Questions, 512 North Ridge Road, Montville 04941, or e-mail them to dianagc@midcoast.com. Selected questions will be answered in future columns. Include name, address and telephone number.