Man, I feel like a Woman Flattering fit, colorful accents give menswear basics feminine flair

Hey, ladies, do you remember the power suits of the ’80s?

Ugh.

How could you forget? With their big shoulder pads, boxy lines and no-nonsense fabrics, suits and separates sent a strong message: Take me seriously.

This fall, more than 20 years later, pinstripes, wide-legged pants, tailored shirts and structured jackets have resurfaced in women’s fashion. But this time, the message they send is only as serious as the wearer wants it to be.

“What we’re seeing now is a different approach to it,” said Mark-Evan Blackman, a professor in menswear at New York City’s Fashion Institute of Technology. “We’re seeing suitings much more on women’s terms than in the past. What we’re looking at now is a much more feminine version.”

And the femininity is in the fit. Structured jackets and cuffed pants flatter most any figure, at any age – princess seams and wide-leg trousers that taper at the waist can make a slender woman look curvy, while pinstripes, tailored tops and rich fabrics can be slimming if they fall properly.

“The pants are more flowy and not as fitted, which is great for women concerned with their butt, hips and thighs – the straight leg is in.” said Candace Dhakhwa, a fashion editor at Glamour magazine. “And trench coats in pinstripes and tweeds tend to be very flattering because they cover everything and they tie at the waist, which gives the illusion of a curvy figure.”

The menswear trend isn’t so fly-by-night that you’ll be sitting around next fall wondering what to do with the pieces you buy this season, either. A well-made suit or a tailored blouse will last for years, and you always can update it with accessories. A pair of brown or tan tweed pants will go with items most women already have in their closets – a white oxford or a bright crewneck sweater by day, or a camisole or sequined top by night. And the best part is, you can find what you don’t already own almost anywhere in the Bangor area, in every price point.

The look is classic and clean, with a twist. Tweed and pinstripes can feel a bit stodgy if you wear them head-to-toe, but if you add a flash of color, a spunky hat, or a silk shirt with a luxurious drape, you can make these menswear basics your own. And don’t forget the heels.

“We’re not seeing menswear shoes,” Dhakhwa said. “We’re seeing it sexed up a bit with moc-croc or real crocodile heels, or round-toe heels. Definitely the shoes are a way to make the trend really sexy.”

But even with a pair of high boots or pointy-toe pumps, the look is restrained enough to wear to the office. These menswear basics still mean business – but now, business doesn’t have to mean boring.

“That personal interpretation of the look, that controlling of the larger picture, is what is different from 25 years ago,” Blackman said. “Then, she couldn’t call any of the shots. Today, she’s calling very different shots than she did 25 years ago.”

And those shots aren’t confined to the office. Sure, a well-made suit is always in style at work, but at play, the trend can be interpreted a million different ways. Take Avril Lavigne’s grunge-girl tie and suspenders. Or the young women Blackman has seen who take vintage men’s jackets with narrow lapels and pair them with a great pair of jeans or a pencil skirt. In Manhattan’s Upper East Side, Blackman has seen women wearing high-end denim with a silk shirt and a men’s tie as a belt.

“It’s a more insouciant approach to it,” Blackman said. “It’s not like she went home and studied it. It’s more a devil-may-care attitude, and that’s the brilliance of it because it really does work.”

What’s even more brilliant is the fact that women don’t need to dress like corporate linebackers to be taken seriously anymore. So you can lose the shoulder pads. Add a peek of lace if you want. Or a bright-red blouse. Or a sexy shirred shirt.

“What we’re seeing now is a real body-consciousness under these tailored jackets and structured suits,” Blackman said. “It’s come full-circle.”

Special thanks to our model, Jackie Farwell, and Filene’s, which loaned the clothing for our photo shoot.