Relocating shrubs will require care

Q. We are making renovations to our home and I will have to move several small shrubs in my yard that are in the way. The problem is, I’ll have nowhere to immediately plant them. I wonder, can you offer help as to how I would treat these plants during this period?

A. Thankfully your shrubs are small! Hopefully you’ll be able to locate plastic potting containers large enough to accommodate their root mass during the transition. If not, you’ll need to make a trip to your local hardware store or nursery-garden center and purchase some burlap.

Once you have a means of containment handy, you’re ready to dig the shrubs. First, trace a circle in the soil around the outer edge of the shrub’s canopy. This is your digging line. Next, using twine or cording of some sort, gently lift the branches of the shrub upward and, wrapping the twine around the branches, tie them up out of the way of the cutting area. The point is to expose the base of the plant and the soil around it.

In general, you’ll want to dig a root ball that is at least two-thirds the shrub’s diameter. (Naturally you’ll need a container to adequately match this size.) Using a digging spade, cut directly downward through the soil profile around the cutting line. Next, dig a trench around the outside of this cutting line. Removing soil from the trench will help keep the root ball intact and allow you space in the hole to work at removing the plant or applying the burlap.

Now you are ready to sever the anchoring or tap roots of your specimen. Moving around the circumference of your shrub, thrust your spade repeatedly on an angle from the original cutting line downward and toward the center of the root mass. This will sever the lower roots of the plant.

If the specimen is small enough to place in a plastic container, use a spade to lift the plant from its hole. If the plant is too heavy, use a long board or plank for leverage to lift it. Place the plant in the plastic container, keeping as much of the soil mass as possible intact.

If the plant requires burlaping, you may need to call on another person for assistance. First, cut the burlap to size, allowing enough area to be able to fold up the burlap around the entire soil ball to the woody stem of the shrub. Place your square of burlap on the ground and roll it up halfway.

Next, have your helper apply gentle leverage to the plant, tilting the plant away from you. Kneel at the edge of the trench and place the rolled-up side of the burlap under the shrub so that the center of the burlap is approximately at the bottom center of the root ball. Exchange places with your helper and have him or her tilt the plant in the opposite direction. Reach under the plant and roll out the burlap. Gathering the edges of the burlap, enclose the root ball completely with the fabric. Tie it off with twine around the stem of the plant or hold it in place by inserting long nails through the folds of the coarse material, anchoring them in the soil mass.

Move your containerized or balled and burlapped plants to a shady area and keep them well-irrigated until you are ready to transplant them. When transplanting the balled and burlapped specimens, remove the fabric simply by reversing the application process. After transplanting, help your shrubs ease their shock by continuing to keep them well-irrigated until they are well-established.

Q. We would like to plant some “exotic” trees, particularly either peaches or pears, if possible. Can you shed some light on the topic? – B.H., Harrington

A. While many books have been published regarding cultivating a home orchard, when it comes to trees, probably nothing would be more educational than perusing a local nursery that has a knowledgeable staff. Plants that will grow well in your area most likely will be found at a local nursery that has overwintered fruit trees at a physical location close to you. Peaches and pears can be a bit fussy when it comes to difficult winter weather. Hardiness, of course, is only one important factor in determining the success of plants in your orchard. But finding varieties that will endure the winters in your area is a good starting point for selecting acceptable “exotic” trees.

If you are having trouble locating a nursery that offers unusual fruit specimens, I would recommend getting on the Fedco Seed Cooperative’s mailing list. You can reach them at P.O. Box 520, Waterville 04903 or by calling 873-7333. Fedco holds a tree sale each year (which happens to be wrapping up on May 8 this year) and offers an interesting selection of woody plants. Their Web site offers a nice set of references for learning more about fruit trees. Visit www.fedcoseeds.com/trees/treesweblinks.htm.

Diana George Chapin is the NEWS garden columnist. Send horticulture questions to Gardening Questions, 512 North Ridge Road, Montville 04941 or e-mail dianagc@midcoast.com. Selected questions will be answered in future columns. Include name, address and telephone number.