GREAT GRILLED CHEESE: 50 INNOVATIVE RECIPES FOR STOVETOP, GRILL, AND SANDWICH MAKER, by Laura Werlin, Stewart, Tabori & Chang, New York, 2004, 136 pages, $16.95.

What is it about a grilled cheese? Even in these carb-weary times, it’s hard to deny the certain culinary magic of melty cheese layered between two crunchy slabs of bread. It’s cheap, easy and filling. But most importantly, it’s mighty tasty.

And if you thought that waxy American cheese slices and Wonder Bread were the best, sole elements in these sandwiches, think again. These days most supermarket chains carry a veritable cornucopia of specialty breads and imported cheeses, so why not experiment a little? And for those in need of little thoughtful guidance to get started, look no further than Laura Werlin’s book,

“Great Grilled Cheese: 50 Innovative Recipes for Stovetop, Grill and Sandwich Maker.”

In it, Werlin offers up some excellent recipes that put more than a few fresh spins on this comfort food staple, as well as tips on ingredients (“go wild with bread”) and cooking technique (“grate, don’t slice”) to help ensure perfect taste, crunch and melt – all complemented by Maren Caruso’s full-color photographs. One leaf through the book is enough to make even the most hardcore Atkins diet devotee weak in the knees for a bit of ooey-gooey, bready goodness.

The book’s 50 recipes run the gamut from tried-and-true “classics,” such as the aptly named Best Grilled Cheese (Cheddar on sourdough bread), to innovative but satisfying “modern” combinations, including the Grilled Ricotta and Shrimp with Cilantro Pesto, as well as selections spotlighting the use of seasonal ingredients, such as Summer Plums with Brie and Blue Cheese.

Werlin also expands the traditional notion of “grilled cheese,” devoting a section of the book entirely to its popular, south-of-the-border-inspired cousin, the quesadilla, and another to sweet grilled cheeses such as Grilled Brie with Apricot Jam, and Goat Cheese and Honey on Cinnamon-Raisin Bread. There’s even a recipe for a “breadless” portobello mushroom and provolone sandwich.

And while taste is no doubt the leading factor here, another consideration in gauging how great a grilled cheese really is has to be how easy it is to prepare. Most of the recipes get high marks for ease and efficiency; however the extra ingredients and steps involved in making the more unique sandwiches (and even in a few simple ones such as the yummy, Reubenesque Dutch Grilled Cheese) do make for extra time-consuming hassles. But as Werlin points out, a lot of the prep – like the all-important grating of the cheese – can be done hours (even days) in advance.

If you give yourself a little lead time, any of the book’s recipes can give any quick meal at home some gourmet flair with a side of homey comfort.

And while some recipes might prove a tad complex flavorwise for some family dinner tables – most kids probably wouldn’t beg for second helpings of sandwiches such as the Buttery Fig and Blue Cheese Melt, or Grilled Goat Cheese with Tapenade – they could be unique and tasty fare for mom and dad’s next dinner or holiday party.

But perhaps best of all, “Great Grilled Cheese” serves as an easy starting point to discovering the myriad types of breads and cheeses now available. And once you get the hang of the flavors, textures, types and technique, it opens up a world of possibilities for putting your own twist on Werlin’s recipes and making a little grilled cheese magic that’s all your own.

George Bragdon can be reached at gbragdon@bangordailynews.net.

The Best Grilled Cheese

Makes four sandwiches

8 slices sourdough bread (1/4 inch thick)

2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

6 ounces best-quality Cheddar cheese (orange or white) coarsely grated

To assemble: Butter one side of each slice of bread. Place four slices on your work surface, buttered side down. Distribute the cheese evenly over the four slices. Place the remaining bread slices on top, buttered side up.

Stovetop method: Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat for two minutes. Put the sandwiches in the skillet (in batches if necessary), cover, and cook for two minutes, or until the undersides are golden brown and the cheese has begun to melt. Uncover, and turn the sandwiches with a spatula, pressing firmly to flatten them slightly. Cook for one minute, or until the undersides are golden brown. Turn the sandwiches again, press with the spatula, and cook for 30 seconds, or until the cheese has melted completely. Serve immediately.

Sandwich maker method: Preheat the sandwich maker. Follow directions for sandwich assembly, and cook according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Gas grill method: Brush the grill rack with oil and preheat the grill to medium-high. Follow directions for sandwich assembly. Put the sandwiches on the grill and follow directions for stovetop method.

Garlic Crusted-Sourdough with Cheddar

Makes four sandwiches

3 cups water

2 medium cloves garlic

2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

1/4 cup very finely grated Parmesan cheese (about 1 ounce)

8 slices sourdough bread (1/4 inch thick)

8 ounces Cheddar cheese, coarsely grated

In a saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Add the garlic, boil for five minutes, and drain. In a small bowl, mash the garlic with the back of a fork (or use a garlic press). Add the butter and Parmesan cheese, and mix well.

To assemble: Butter one side of each slice of bread with the garlic butter. Place four slices on your work surface, buttered side down. Distribute the Cheddar cheese evenly over the four slices and top with the remaining four bread slices, buttered side up.

Stovetop method: Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat for two minutes. Put the sandwiches in the skillet (in batches if necessary), cover, and cook for two to three minutes, or until the undersides are golden brown and the cheese has begun to melt. Uncover, and turn the sandwiches with a spatula, pressing firmly to flatten them slightly. Cook for one to two minutes, or until the undersides are golden brown. Turn the sandwiches again, press with spatula, and cook for 30 seconds, or until the cheese has melted completely. Serve immediately.

Sandwich maker method: Preheat the sandwich maker (if your machine has adjustable heat, set it to medium). Follow the directions for sandwich assembly, and cook according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Watch the sandwiches carefully, as the garlic butter on the outside of the bread can burn easily.

Gas grill method: Brush the grill rack with oil and preheat the grill to medium. Follow directions for sandwich assembly. Put the sandwiches on the grill and follow directions for the stovetop method.

Chocolate-Hazelnut and Goat Cheese Melt

Makes four sandwiches

8 tablespoons (about 1/2 cup) Nutella (or other hazelnut-chocolate spread)

4 ounces fresh goat cheese, at room temperature

8 slices country white bread (1/4 inch thick)

2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

In a small bowl, stir the Nutella and cheese together.

To assemble: Butter one side each slice of bread. Place four slices on your work surface, buttered side down. Spread the cheese mixture evenly over the four slices so that it is about 1/4 inch thick (if it’s any thicker, the sandwich will be too gooey). Place the remaining four bread slices on top, buttered side up. Cut off the crusts (this helps pinch the bread together to create a tight seal).

Stovetop method: Heat a large, nonstick skillet over medium heat for two minutes. Put the sandwiches in the skillet (in batches if necessary), cover and cook for two minutes or until the undersides are golden brown and the cheese has begun to soften. Uncover and turn the sandwiches with a spatula. Cook for one minute or until the undersides are golden brown. Turn the sandwiches again and cook for 30 seconds, or until the cheese is soft and creamy. Serve immediately.

Sandwich maker method: Because of the creaminess of the filling, a sandwich maker does not work for this sandwich.

Gas grill method: Brush a grill rack with oil and preheat the grill to medium. Follow directions for sandwich assembly. Put the sandwiches on the grill and follow directions for stovetop method.