MexiGo! Traveling on a budget means spending less, not skimping on the fun

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Sometimes, simple is better, and cheaper.

My wife and I had our sights set on going to Mexico this winter and with some patience and diligent Web surfing, we found airline tickets that we could afford. A few mouse clicks, some strokes of the keyboard and, voila, tickets to paradise.

That’s where the preparations ended. Being twentysomethings with a mild penchant for adventure, we decided to wing the rest of our trip last month. No hotel bookings. No packages. No itinerary. No resolute plans. Two tickets and Frommer’s “Cancun, Cozumel & the Yucatan 2005” (and of course mucho Imodium AD) was all it took to escape the winter doldrums on a fixed budget of $1,600.

Though the bottom line for us was the bottom line, fortunately we are minimalists by nature. This “less is more” approach is not for everyone, but for those willing to go with the flow, book your tickets online and see where your travels take you.

Our odyssey took us from Boston, where a mix-up in flight schedules landed us in First Class, to Cancun. At the Yucatan Peninsula resort, the warm sun greeted our pale, winter-worn faces with an unexpected strength that made my wife, Julia, smile and got me rummaging through my pack for SPF 45 sun block.

Emerging from the Cancun Airport, we were assailed by wave after wave of cabbies, shuttle bus drivers, hotel booking agents and others trying to catch our attention. Young men approached wanting to help carry our luggage. Taxi drivers attempted to usher us toward their cars. Some were aggressive, almost pulling us by the arm to whatever they were selling. A bit of advice here. Learn to say: “No gracias” or you’ll wind up paying for services you never wanted.

Isla Mujeres

Just off the coast of Mexico, within sight of Cancun’s sprawling hotels, Isla Mujeres (Island of Women) was our first destination by way of shuttle bus from the airport to the ferry in Puerto Juarez. Isla Mujeres was named after the island’s many female figurines that were discovered by Francisco Hernandez de Cordoba in 1517. They are believed to have been offerings to the Mayan goddess of fertility. (Unfortunately none remain because of theft and destruction.) There are many ferries and water taxis to get you to Isla Mujeres. Recommendation: Open-air ferries in Puerto Juarez cost only $4 and allow you great views of the island and Cancun’s coast.

As we drew closer to the 5-mile-long isle, the white sand beaches and turquoise waters along Playa Norte were pleasing reminders of why we had traveled so far from the barren north. The 30-minute ride was refreshing with the ocean breeze and new scenery to take in. Stepping off the ferry, luggage in tow, we were ready to find a hotel and do some exploring.

Hotels abound on Isla Mujeres, including the Avalon, a resort that requires prior booking, a few hostels and several medium-priced hotels. Consulting our Frommer’s guide, we booked one night at Hotel Francis Arlene only to be disappointed by the lack of amenities for $60. But sticking to our approach of going with the flow, we found another hotel with everything we wanted for $5 less. Another recommendation: Meson de Bucaneros is a clean, friendly, moderately-priced (about $55 a night during peak season) hotel that has kitchenettes in some rooms. In the end, the ability to cook some of our meals saved us muchos pesos.

Besides soaking up the hot sun on the beach, which is empty compared to those in Cancun, we rented bicycles for a trek across the island. Rental shops for bikes, mopeds, golf carts (the preferred mode of travel on the island) and autos are interspersed throughout the town. Traversing the island is relatively easy with only a few hills on the very southern tip, but be sure to bring water and an extra shirt as you will get sweaty. El Garrafon Natural Park rests at the end and offers a winding hike along the craggy coast. Underground tunnels allow you to cross between the island’s east and west shores. Our minimalist ways hindered us a bit on this outing as we forgot to bring our camera to capture the park’s breathtaking rugged beauty.

This side of Isla Mujeres also hosts a turtle sanctuary, with guided tours and a meager admission price, as well as Dolphin Discovery, where you can swim with the marine mammals.

Isla is well known for snorkeling and inexpensive shopping, especially for silver jewelry and trinkets. The streets teem with locals selling everything from maracas and T-shirts to pottery and wind chimes. Vendors are extremely aggressive in trying to make a sale so browsing is difficult without being pressured.

Having not budgeted much for shopping, we spent our money snorkeling the crystal clear waters. Guides are plentiful, so shop around for prices. A four-hour trip to three separate reefs was by far my favorite. The water was warm and the brightly colored tropical fish were plentiful. We even caught sight of barracuda, lobsters and sea urchins. And for $20 a person, including lunch and equipment, this is one activity not to miss.

Chichen Itza

Located in the northeastern corner of Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula, Chichen Itza is about 21/2 hours from Cancun and is well worth the ride. This heavily excavated city, first settled around 432 AD by the Maya, is rich in mythology and history. Walking in the shadows of its towering stone ruins conjures thoughts of the ancient people who once lived, worked and died there.

Entering the city from the park’s main gates is humbling, as dense foliage gives way to the immense 75-foot tall Chichen Itza castle. Our Mayan tour guide took our group of about 30 people to one side of the stepped structure. Explaining how the Mayan-Toltec culture paid homage to its serpent God Kukulcan, he had us clap our hands in unison as they used to. A shrieking echo vibrated back, as if someone was blowing a horn from atop the castle. The sound was so amazing that people were still talking about it on the bus ride back to Cancun.

After the tour, our guide set us free to explore on own. My wife and I strolled around wondering what it must have been like to have lived there during its glory days. We visited one of two cenotes (sink holes) that flank the city. These massive holes in the porous Yucatan bedrock provided the Mayans with fresh water, which is why they settled the area. We walked between the thousand columns at the Temple of Warriors. We climbed the inner pyramid of the castle, a dark, steep and narrow passage with stone stairs moist from visitors’ perspiration. Step after step, oxygen levels diminished. By the time we reached the top, I was short of breath and light headed. A jaguar statue, another Mayan deity, inlaid with jade and jewels greeted us at the summit.

The castle’s outer steps are steep as well, but the open sky and fresh air makes the climb much easier. At the top, with the ruins and forests stretched out below, it’s easy to see why up to 50,000 people visit the city each day.

Recommendation: Stay in the nearby town of Piste the night before going to Chichen Itza. This will allow you to get to the ruins early in the morning before the tour buses arrive. It is a more expensive way to go, but having the ruins to yourself will be reward enough.

Cancun

Cancun is broken up into two parts: the hotel zone and Ciudad de Cancun (Cancun City). Going on a budget inevitably steered us to the city. We found hotels there much cheaper, from $150 to $300 less per night, and they were located conveniently close to grocery stores, the city bus route and restaurants. Booking in the hotel zone is almost exclusively for all-inclusive packages and was way out of our price range. Still, with bus fares at about $2, getting to the shops, beaches and restaurants in the hotel zone was inexpensive. Note: All beaches in Mexico are open to the public. If there is a beach you have in mind, you may pass through a hotel’s lobby to get to the water.

We found the hotel zone too touristy for our liking and the beaches too crowded. But if shopping and a lively nightlife are your aim, this is the place for you. It also is easier to get around because most people in this district speak English.

Mexico’s Cancun region has it all, from the inexpensive to the extravagant. As we found out, going on a shoestring budget doesn’t mean having less fun or adventures. It’s all about doing things in an unconventional way, and always going with the flow, which with the warm sun and friendly locals wasn’t a problem.

For booking tickets online, www.orbitz.com, www.hotwire.com and www.expedia.com are among reliable Web sites. Set a reasonable price and shop around. Aaron Plourde can be reached at aplourde1979@yahoo.com.

If you go?

Drink only bottled water available in restaurants and grocery stores.

Bring Imodium AD to fend off Montezuma?s revenge.

Hotels with kitchenettes save you from eating out all the time.

The sun is strong, so bring at least SPF 30 sun block.

Exchange currency at money exchanges.

Have smaller bills and change handy when riding buses or shopping.

Take city buses; they are much cheaper.

Always travel with at least one other person.

Never bring all of your money with you when going out.

Have fun and relax.