December 22, 2024
BY HAND

Dye house price list gives peek at history

If you lived in Bangor in the early 1900s, the Bangor Steam Dye House at 71 Central St., E.S. Baker, proprietor, was in business to “cleanse and dye” clothing and household items. J.H. Gould established the business at 40 East End Central Bridge in 1858, and employed seven people on two floors in 1888.

A copy of a Bangor Dye House price list given to me by Bangor Daily News colleague and Bangor historian Richard Shaw offers a glimpse, not only into the services the business offered, but also into the fashion history of Bangor in the early 20th century.

Women wore tea gowns, chiffon and crepe de Chine gowns, silk gowns, opera cloaks, silk hose, silk gloves and kid slippers. That suggests Bangor women had active social lives, that they went out into society in the evening to hear concerts, to see plays and to attend balls where Pullen’s orchestra played the latest waltzes. In Bangor, 100 years ago, it seems a band was always playing somewhere.

The cost to clean or dye women’s evening finery ranged from $1.75 to $8. Owners of those dresses and cloaks must have been what today are referred to jokingly as “high-maintenance women.” Most certainly they were stylish. The economy of Bangor must have been strong enough then to enable men to provide their wives and daughters with such fine wardrobes.

Women, according to the list, also brought to the dye house dresses in summer fabrics of linen, gingham, mull, Swiss and organdy, which cost $2-$3 to be cleaned.

Shawls mentioned on the dye house list were primarily of wool; some were knit. No mention is made of paisley shawls. Golf capes were on the list, which may suggest that ladies’ fashions were being influenced by the growing popularity of the game. Perhaps women were out on the links hitting golf balls down the fairway attired in proper ladylike outfits befitting the occasion – when women were just beginning to take up sports of all kinds.

Another item the Bangor Dye House cleaned and dyed was plumes, including feather boas, which women sometimes wore as an accessory over a coat. You could even get your feather boa curled. It wasn’t cheap to have a boa cleaned, dyed and curled. That service cost $1.75 per yard.

The dye house would clean and dye lace, but declined to quote a price because lace varied “so much in value that prices cannot be fixed without seeing articles.” Some lace may have been so delicate or intricately made that cleaning risked damaging it.

Young girls and infants early in the 20th century wore cloaks and capes, plain and fancy dresses, silk hoods and hats, muslin and lace bonnets and leggings. Prices to have these items cleaned or dyed ranged from 15 cents for leggings to $1.50 for a fancy dress.

Men went to the dye house to have suits, overcoats and vests – fancy, duck or pique – taken care of, pretty much what they take to the dry cleaners today.

The Bangor Dye House cleaned and dyed household items, including mantel draperies, chenille table covers, wool blankets, down quilts, Marseilles bedspreads, imported rugs, fur rugs and portieres.

When spring or fall housecleaning time rolled around, Bangor housewives could have their draperies attended to at the dye house, including Irish point lace curtains; Swiss, Brussels, applique and lace curtains; draperies of madras cloth, silk, satin, brocatelle or damask; lace bed sets; and cord and tassels, which were used to tie back draperies and portieres.

If nothing more, the Bangor Dye House price list is testimony to the fact that textiles and their upkeep played a role in Bangor’s economy, that a segment of Bangor’s population could afford fine things and keep them maintained.

Snippets

A member of the Bear Paws Quilters called to say that it still has about 24 copies of “Quilts Have a Story to Tell” by Persis Messer. The book is available from BookMarc’s in Bangor and the University Bookstore in Orono.

Ardeana Hamlin welcomes suggestions. Call 990-8153, or e-mail ahamlin@bangordailynews.net.


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