Schoodic area magical in winter Trip down peninsula reveals austere beauty of Maine coast

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In winter, there’s something magical about looking out over a harbor. Thick chunks of ice are cast like broken glass along the shore. Snow fills dinghies stacked up along the docks. And the few fishing boats left in the water to brave the weather sit in the bay like silent ghosts.

A frozen harbor gives you a true sense of the strength of Mother Nature. It’s a peculiar mix of peacefulness and power, serenity and severity.

A trip down the Schoodic Peninsula offers dozens of coves and quiet places to glimpse the austere beauty of a Maine winter.

The trip begins at the start of the Schoodic National Scenic Byway, just after the Taunton River Bridge, on U.S. Route 1. A short detour down Route 185 will take you to Sorrento. With about 280 residents, the picturesque hamlet is one of Maine’s smallest towns. While it isn’t technically part of the Schoodic Peninsula, Sorrento is a nice place to look out over Frenchman Bay. Snow-capped Cadillac Mountain looms in the distance.

Farther east is Winter Harbor, a picturesque community where the harbor rarely freezes in the winter. To stretch your legs after the long car ride, explore the aisles of the Winter Harbor 5 & 10, which is open year-round. The Main Street store is a mix of unique gifts, such as hand-painted buoys and lobster-shaped candles, and necessary objects, including film and toiletries. They also have craft supplies, greeting cards and souvenirs.

No trip to Winter Harbor is complete without stopping at Chase’s Restaurant for lunch. It’s the kind of place where the staff knows what you want before your fanny hits the vinyl seats. The menu includes chowder, fried clams, tuna rolls and other simple fare. Their shepherd’s pie, which makes an occasional appearance on the list of daily specials, is perfect on a cold day.

You’ll want a belly full of warm food as you explore the Schoodic section of Acadia National Park. It’s blustery on the park’s 7-mile loop road this time of year. Those who feel hearty can walk it. Others might prefer to drive.

The one-way road winds along the rocky shoreline, past snow-covered trees and around inlets. You might see eagles, loons and maybe even a moose. At the southern point of the peninsula, waves crash over the granite ledges, especially on stormy days. On a clear day, stop at the Blueberry Hill turnout, where you might be able to spot the Petit Manan Island lighthouse 8 miles away.

Route 186 winds through Gouldsboro and the villages of South Gouldsboro, Gouldsboro, Birch Harbor, Prospect Harbor and Corea.

Just past Stinson’s sardine cannery (look for the giant fisherman), you’ll see Prospect Harbor Light and the keeper’s quarters, Gull Cottage. The lighthouse is on Navy property, so access is restricted. But you can get a great picture from the road along the harbor or from the road leading to the base, which is accessible from Route 195.

If all the exploring made you hungry, stop at Downeast Deli, a gourmet pizza and sandwich shop, for a snack. Their homemade peanut-butter-chocolate-chip cookies might give you just enough energy to make the trip back home.

If You Go …

How to get there:

From Ellsworth, take U.S. Route 1 over the Taunton River Bridge. Route 185, on the right, will take you to Sorrento. Farther down Route 1, Route 186 goes through Gouldsboro to Winter Harbor. Bear right at the waterfront to get to the Winter Harbor 5 & 10. Bear left to get to Chase’s and Acadia National Park. Continue north on Route 186 to Prospect Harbor. Route 186 connects back to Route 1.

What to bring:

Warm clothing, especially on a windy day. You might also want binoculars and a camera.

Other activities:

There are many unique shops throughout the Schoodic Peninsula. This time of year, most are closed but some are open by chance or by appointment. If you are interested in visiting a particular store, call ahead to make sure it will be open. The Schoodic Peninsula Chamber of Commerce has a good list of shops and eateries, including telephone numbers, on its Web site at www.acadia-schoodic.org.