Recipe won’t spear you wrong

Meet asparagus. The food of love. Known as an aphrodisiac in some cultures (perhaps because of its suggestive shape), these slender spears are the ultimate finger food. Plus, they have a mild, seductive flavor if you can get past their woody exterior.

But that’s the easy part. A quick trim with a knife will remove stringy ends, or, simply break it with your hands – it’ll snap at precisely the right spot. But then what? And what about those weird white stalks at the market?

White and green asparagus come from the same plant. The white ones have been blanched by remaining buried underground. The flavor varies slightly, but for all intents and purposes they can be prepared the same way. Regardless of color, look for firm, slender spears. For a quick treat, steam them until they turn bright green (about 5 minutes) and dress simply with butter. If you have a bit more time, this soup makes an elegant first course.

– Kristen Andresen

Asparagus Bisque

Serves 6

2 pounds asparagus

4 tablespoons butter or olive oil

1 1/2 cups sliced leeks or scallions

3 tablespoons flour

6 1/4 cups chicken stock or water

1/2 cup light cream or plain yogurt

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

Salt and ground black pepper to taste

Cut the tips off the asparagus spears and boil for 5-6 minutes, until just tender. Drain; set aside 12 tips, and cut the rest into 2 or 3 pieces. Trim the ends off the remaining stalks and chop into 1/2-inch pieces.

Heat the butter or oil in a heavy pot or Dutch oven. Add leeks or scallions and saute over low heat, stirring occasionally for 5 minutes until softened but not browned. Stir in chopped stalks, cover and cook for 6-8 minutes more until stalks are tender. Add the flour and stir well to blend. Cook 4 minutes, uncovered, stirring occasionally.

Add stock or water and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Process the soup in a food processor and strain, if necessary, to remove any stringy bits. Stir in the chopped asparagus tips, the cream, and the tarragon. Serve in shallow bowls, garnished with 2 asparagus tips each.

Note: A lump of fresh crabmeat on top tastes divine and it turns the soup course into a meal in itself. This recipe was adapted from “Soups, Starters and Salads,” edited by Felicity Forster.