Fit for a queen, blackwork embroidery has roots with Catherine of Aragon

Traditionally, blackwork embroidery is done with black silk thread on cream-colored linen using a backstitch or double-running stitch. Sometimes it is embellished with gold metallic thread.

Erica Wilson’s “The Craft of Black Work and White Work,” published in 1973, which I found lurking on one of my bookshelves, was a good source of inspiration for designs, but Web sites gave a lot more history about the art.

An article on the Web by Michele Palmer and another by Rissa Root say that the origin of blackwork embroidery goes back to North Africa and was brought to Spain by the Moors circa 711. Arabs and Moors dominated Spain for nine centuries. The first blackwork designs were based on geometric patterns.

Eventually, the craft became embedded in Spanish culture, where the designs became more scrolling in form. By 1524, it was known as “Spanish work.”

Catherine of Aragon, the daughter of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella of Spain, is said to have introduced blackwork to England in 1501 when she traveled to that country to marry Prince Arthur, who died six months after the marriage. Catherine then married Arthur’s younger brother, Henry VIII, and became Queen of England. Catherine stitched blackwork on sleeves, collars, cuffs, ruffs, coifs and other items of clothing, and on cushions and other household items.

Blackwork is done with a backstitch if the embroidered item is not reversible, or the double-running stitch if the design is to show on both sides of the piece. The double-running stitch also is known as Holbein stitch after artist Hans Holbein the Younger, court painter to Henry VIII. Besides painting royal portraits, Holbein was responsible for designing the king’s robes, buttons, linens and household goods. He incorporated blackwork into the king’s wardrobe.

Depictions of blackwork may be seen in Holbein’s portraits of royalty and his paintings document that type of embroidery, a boon to needlework historians.

The Internet abounds with information about blackwork, its history and technique. My favorite Web site is www.blackworkarchives.com. It offers free pattern charts and designs include flowers, fruit, roses, leaf borders and pea pods. I am especially fond of the oak leaf and acorn design.

Dover Publications has available two classic works on blackwork, “Blackwork Embroidery” by Elisabeth Geddes and Marya McNeill; and “Blackwork” by Mary Gostelow. Check local libraries and bookstores for these titles, or visit www.doverpublications.com to find out how to receive a catalog.

Snippets

. Those of you who have knitted or crocheted a poncho like the one Martha Stewart wore when she was released from prison in March are invited to be a part of Martha Stewart’s new daytime television show, “Martha.” The “Martha” poncho show will be taped live in New York City at 10 a.m. Tuesday, Sept. 13, with everyone in the audience wearing the ponchos they have made. To apply for tickets, to obtain information, or to find a free pattern for the poncho, visit www.lionbrand.com.

. The loon will be in the spotlight when the Pine Tree Quilters Guild presents its 28th show 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday, July 29-31, at the Augusta Civic Center. The loon is this year’s symbol, and the show will offer a special exhibit of loon, or “loony,” pieces.

The quilt exposition will feature quilting workshops with Joyce Becker, Sue Campbell, Pepper Cory, Kathy Delaney, Nancy Eha, Jo Morton, Nancy Prince, Paula Reid, Kathy Sandbach, Elly Sienkiewicz, Kathyanne White and Connie Drinkwater Young.

On exhibit will be the Hoffman Challenge Traveling quilt, art quilts, antique quilts, judged quilts, display quilts and raffle quilts.

Other activities include lectures, demonstrations, quilt appraisals and a merchants mall.

Proceeds from the mini-quilt silent auction will benefit programs focusing on women and heart disease.

To obtain a quilt show brochure, send $2 to Maine Quilts 05, P.O. Box 286, Cutler 04626. For information, visit www.mainequilts.org.

Ardeana Hamlin may be reached at 990-8153, or e-mail ahamlin@bangordailynews.net.