It is time for a simple supper. I was thumbing through some of my old Maine Rebekah’s cookbooks, of which I have two or three vintages. One is a fourth edition of the 1939 book, printed in 1944. I like all the little jingles and quotes that precede sections of recipes like this one:

Bread, men say, is the staff of life,

But they will oft concede,

That were it not for our dainty desserts,

The staff would be heavy indeed.

Or this sentimental little number:

The very nicest sight

I ever hope to see

Is my mother making cookies

And a’smiling down at me.

Awwww.

I like desserts and cookies just fine, but for some reason, it was a Welsh Rarebit that caught my attention. I bet I haven’t made rarebit in about 14 years. At least. Whatever happened to rarebit, anyway? Does anyone make it anymore? Or are we all busy dunking tortilla chips in nacho cheese sauce instead? Mable B. Gerry in York No. 3 chapter donated her rarebit recipe to the cookbook.

The Rebekahs, by the way, especially for you younger people, is the women’s branch of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows. “The Maine Rebekah’s Cookbook” has been around for most of the 20th century, and is lots of fun to read and cook from. I thought Mrs. Gerry’s recipe sounded as good as any rarebit recipe I found in Fanny Farmer or any other classic cookbook. It is creamy and delicious and the cayenne gives it a bit of snap but you could put more in if you like that kind of bite in a dish.

It is worth using a good sharp cheddar for it. In fact, you can find those nice big two-pound blocks of New-England-made seriously sharp cheese in the dairy section of the store or use some of our good made-in-Maine cheddar. Just make sure your cheese has character. If you grate it, it will melt more quickly.

We had our Welsh Rarebit with a bit of freshly steamed broccoli from the garden (probably the last of this season) and a salad. Serving it on saltine crackers is the orthodox fashion, but I bet it would be good on baked potatoes.

Welsh Rarebit

Serves 3

1/2 pound cheese

2 tablespoons butter

2 eggs beaten

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1 level teaspoon dry mustard

1 cup milk

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Melt the cheese and butter in the top of a double boiler over boiling water. Beat together the eggs, cayenne, mustard, milk, and salt. Add to the melted cheese. Whisk together until it is all mixed, and then add the Worcestershire sauce. Cook until smooth and serve at once on saltines or toast.