Circuit of Vinalhaven makes perfect day trip

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Head Style: head48 – 48 Point, 1 deck, Minion-SemiboldBDN95, Plain; 51; 6 col

Body Spec: Body Text; colw: 11p0; depth:36.68 (in.)

Darkness was just giving way to a cold gray duskiness of morning when I rolled (literally) out of bed last Saturday morning. It was dark enough that the bathroom light was in order but my eyes advised against turning it on, telling me instead to rely on the faint luminescence from the window.

I squinted out into the backyard to check the weather as I brushed my teeth wishing I were the type who could jump out of bed and hit the deck running. Instead, I tend to wander about in a daze, creaking and groaning, realigning numerous joints until I can stand up straight and get my face wet and my ruffled hair rearranged.

My wife and I had met friends at the Whig and Courier Pub in Bangor Friday evening after our torture session at the YWCA weight room. Over a light supper and drinks we cemented plans for an early departure in the morning for Vinalhaven on the state ferry out of Rockland. The 7 a.m. run was out of the question, but we agreed to pick up Dave and Deb Morrill at their Orrington home at 7 a.m. and catch the 8:45 a.m. That would put us on the island around 10 a.m.

We would have until 4:30 p.m. to explore on foot. (Taking a car along boosts the entry fee from $12 per person by another $34.50, or you could take your bikes for $11.50 each.)

Early morning departures for me require some preparation the night before. Lunch was stuffed into small, insulated bags then into the refrigerator. An extra sweater, binoculars, and assorted doodads would fill the backpack in the morning. In theory all that remained before leaving was to make a pot of coffee, grab a bite, walk the dog, and scoot -in theory…

But we made it out the door close to the time we needed to, and thanks to very little traffic and a slight stretching of the speed limit, we pulled into the Morrills’ yard exactly on time and we were off.

Route 15 and Route 1 traffic was light and we had time to spare after arriving at the ferry terminal.

Despite the chill of the morning, we opted to ride on the top deck for the crossing. Settling on the leeward side in the sun, we broke out our binoculars so to bird watch. Black guillemots (many have changed from their gray flannels to their tuxedos), eiders, long tails, and buffleheads entertained us even before leaving Rockland Harbor.

The blandness of an open water crossing of six or so miles belies the beauty you’ll see on approaching the outer islands that guard Vinalhaven. And when the ferry skirts Laireys Island close enough that you can almost reach out and touch it, the real beauty begins. To your left is Leadbetter Island, then you’re into Hurricane Sound rounding Cedar and passing Harbor and Crane islands. To the south lies Hurricane Island and to the east you pass Bartoh, Dyer, and Burying islands that stand guard just off Vinalhaven’s western shore. Then the ferry threads its way past Greens Island through The Reach and around Norton Point into Carver’s Harbor surrounded by the town of Vinalhaven. Hats off to the captain who has to maneuver through this scenic obstacle course – think what it must be like in the fog!

Seemingly hundreds of lobster boats lie at anchor, neatly aligned sentinels to arriving visitors. A flock of gulls and eiders watch as the ferry noses into the pen. The transfer bridge groans to deck level and the apron clangs onto the steel deck. A lone harbor seal pops his head up to greet us. We walk the metal grate to shore while a motorist in a new looking Range Rover struggles to restart his recalcitrant beast. It takes some fiddling but he makes it to dry land where someone with a real estate brochure is waiting.

Our first stop was Carver’s Market in town. We had most of what we needed for lunch, but there are always those “wants” that make themselves evident in a stroll around the store – say some locally made chicken salad or a scrumptious strawberry shortcake. My wife picked up a canvas shopping bag with the store’s name on it for a souvenir and a handy carryall.

We resumed our stroll through town, stopping at a bookstore for a quick purchase and continued around the harbor and across a short bridge to Lane Island, much of which is a Nature Conservancy property. The southeastern point proved to be the most sheltered from the day’s brisk winds, so we scouted out a friendly set of ledges and boulders and settled in for a leisurely picnic in the sunshine.

Aside from one lobster boat that buzzed by and another couple who showed up about the time we were packing up to leave, we had the place to ourselves. After a couple of glasses of wine, I could have stayed there for the rest of the day. We had to move, though. Any longer and I’d have come home looking like a lobster! As it was, my winter-white face got slightly toasted.

With an eye on the clock, we completed the circumnavigation of Lane Island and headed back into town. We had time before the 4:30 p.m. ferry departure to check out a couple more stores. Only two vehicles were making the trip to Rockland, and there were only a half-dozen of us as passengers. Again we opted to stay on deck at least until we cleared the islands. The brisk north winds and fading sun combined to make the on-deck experience brisk. We opted to go inside the cabin once we made open water.

For anyone looking for a great day trip and island cruise, this ride out to Vinalhaven (population 1,300 year-round) could fill the bill nicely. Should you want to see more of the island (and I’m sure there is much more to see), a bicycle or car would be in order. There’s a motel in town, the Tidewater Motel, that is built on a bridge separating Carver’s Harbor to the south from Carver’s Pond. The plus here, if you like the sound of rushing water, is that the changing tides are constantly moving water under the motel between the harbor and Carver’s Pond. If you go between May 15 and June 15 the room rates are $85-$115. After that through Labor Day the rates are $115-$256. You could even rent a bike or a car at the motel. Check out www.tidewatermotel.com for more information.

I did a little exploring on the Web after I got home and I’ll pass along these names and phone numbers for lodging and restaurants: Tidewater Motel, 863-4618; Fox Island Inn, 863-2122; Libby House B&B, 863-4696; Payne Homestead B&B, 863-9963; and the Chatfield House B&B, 863-9303. Here’s the restaurant list: Harborside Restaurant (breakfast only), Mill Race Restaurant (lunch and dinner), Granite Caf? (dinner); Tibbs Restaurant (all meals); Lazaro Lanes Bowling Alley and Restaurant (dinner), and The Black Dog Pub.

There’s even a kayak touring business, Sea Escape Kayak. For more information or a brochure call at 863-9343 or e-mail them at seaescapekayak@att.net.

Want to be a Bay Steward?

The Maine Coastal Program has created a Penobscot Bay Stewards program that will meet twice weekly for classes. The goals are: to provide information to people about their local cultural and natural resources which will give them the knowledge they need to protect and conserve their coastal environment, and to create a network of educated and committed volunteers working together to conserve and protect the natural and cultural resources of the Penobscot Bay area. Topics include island ecology, geological and maritime history, sustainable fisheries management, marine mammals and birds, water quality monitoring, estuaries, stewardship, and interpretive skills.

The Maine Coastal Program is sponsored by the Maine State Planning Office. Classes will be held on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. starting May 2 for four weeks. Classes take place at various locations in the Penobscot Bay region and vary from discussions to field tours to projects. Participants will work directly with a variety of conservation organizations such as local land trusts, the Lobster Conservancy, Maine Audubon Society, Maine Maritime Museum, Chewonki Foundation, and the Maine Coastal Program. After completing the course, participants commit 30 hours of volunteer service to the protection of the Penobscot Bay region’s natural and cultural resources.

Sound interesting? The application deadline is April 18. The application can be downloaded at the Maine Coastal Program Web site (www.maine.gov/spo/mcp/projects/coastalstewards.php) or call the MCP at 287-1486. Other questions? Call 287-2351 or e-mail Theresa.Torrent-Ellis@maine.gov.

Help clear Baxter State trails

Baxter State Park rangers are looking for volunteers to help clear trails of blown-down trees on National Trails Day, June 3. An early snowfall and high winds created a larger-than-normal windfall this past autumn.

Space is limited, so sign up today! Individuals, groups, and outing clubs are encouraged to participate.

To volunteer or for more information, contact Stewart Guay, deputy chief ranger, or Paul Sannicandro, trail supervisor, at 207 723-9616.

Paddling Picture Show tour

Building on the momentum and popularity gained during last year’s successful tour, No Umbrella’s Paddling Picture Show is once again bringing its brand of entertainment to colleges and universities throughout the state.

The show’s collection of four films and one multimedia presentation was created by New England kayakers, rafters, and outdoor enthusiasts with a passion for filmmaking. The films focus primarily on paddle sports with an overall emphasis on Maine.

Sponsors include Northern Outdoors, Teva Sandals, N’east Magazine, Captain Eli’s Soda, and the Skowhegan Run of River Project.

In addition to the evening’s entertainment, information about Maine paddling programs will be available. Highlighted programs include the intercollegiate canoe/kayak racing series, regional paddling clubs, the proposed whitewater park in Skowhegan, Maine-based whitewater guide school, and tips on getting outdoor writing and photography published.

Dates and venues include: 7 p.m., March 23,Student Center, Unity College; 8:30 p.m., March 27, Harold Alfond Building, University of New England, Biddeford; 7 p.m., March 28, Lincoln Auditorium, University of Maine-Farmington; 7 p.m., April 13, 101 Neville Hall, UMaine, Orono; and 7 p.m., April 19, UM-Presque Isle.

Jeff Strout’s column on outdoor recreation is published each Saturday. He can be reached at 990-8202 or by e-mail at jstrout@bangordailynews.net.