LUNCHBOX Pad Thai a delicious staple at Ellsworth’s The Bangkok

Editor’s Note: Here at the Bangor Daily News, we love to eat. And our work takes us all over Maine, which means we’ve eaten our way through the state – from tucked away hot dog stands to fine-dining oases – one meal at a time. Speaking of meals, lunch is a relatively inexpensive way to enjoy a real treat. In the coming months, we’ll highlight some of our favorite noontime noshes here in the Lunch Box. We dine anonymously, but we welcome suggestions about your favorite lunch spots. Send them to lunchbox@bangordailynews.net.

Beau Thai

The Bangkok

321 High St.

Ellsworth, 667-1324

When a friend suggested we dine at The Bangkok, I have to admit, I was a little sketched out by the location. Restaurants attached to motels always make me a little wary.

Once I walked into the tamarind-scented dining room, my fears dissipated. Even more so when our server brought hot Thai tea and ice water with lime. The brilliant purple napkins, folded into intricate lotus-blossom shapes, hinted at the beautiful things to come from the kitchen.

I consider Pad Thai to be a barometer, and when it’s dry or gloppy, that usually means the rest of the meal will disappoint. The Pad Thai at the Bangkok is neither. Fresh and bright with a smattering of ground nuts and more vegetables than usual, it stands out.

So I wasn’t surprised when the Chicken Yum ($6.50) – a warm salad of thinly sliced chicken, raw onions, carrots, lettuce and cilantro in a savory, spicy broth – lived up to its name. The combination of cool and warm, savory and sweet, piquant and mild made the dish burst with flavor, texture and color.

If you go, try the soups ($3.95) and the fresh spring roll ($3.95). And if you like your meals spicy, don’t be afraid to ask – the chef here understands that hot means hot, mild doesn’t have to equal boring and a great meal can cost well under $10.