Pork a substitute for veal in most recipes

A few weeks ago we had a very spiffy recipe for veal scalloppine. At the time I observed that pork might be a tasty substitution for veal – well, actually, tastier. After the recipe appeared, Jane Jennings in Brunswick wrote to say, “I make a dish similar to your veal scalloppine recipe but I substitute thin slices of loin of pork, pounded thin and sauteed very briefly.” Then she went on to describe a sauce she makes for them using green peppercorns, saying, “I suppose you could substitute capers for the green peppercorns, but I like that ‘bite’ you get from the peppercorns.” She describes the result as a “quick but elegant meal” just the ticket for company supper (and who doesn’t have visitors in Maine in summer?)

The only catch to this recipe is going to be finding the green peppercorns, which are pickled in a brine and come in tiny bottles. Just root around in the specialty food items at the store or go to a gourmet food store.

Almost any time capers appear in a recipe, green peppercorns can be substituted or added. In the past, I have used green peppercorns to give a bit of zing to vegetable dishes. I crush them lightly and mix them in with roasted summer squash or add them to salad dressing. Chicken or tuna salad is more interesting with green peppercorns. Get a jar full and live it up for a few weeks.

So here are Annie’s Pork Medallions with Green Peppercorn Sauce. Jane wrote that, “Actually my sister and I came up with this one while we were making up our family cookbook. I’m sure it is based on somebody else’s recipe (there’s no such thing as an original recipe.)” She added, “We serve this over wide egg noodles.”

Annie’s Pork Medallions with Green Peppercorn Sauce

Serves four

1-1 1/2 pounds of pork tenderloin or pork cutlets cut 1 inch thick

Flour for dredging cutlets with a shake of salt and pepper added

3 tablespoons butter (or half butter, half olive oil)

2 shallots (or half an onion and half a garlic clove)

1/2 cup dry vermouth

1 1/2 cups low sodium, fat free chicken stock

1 tablespoon green peppercorns in brine, drained

1 teaspoon dried leaf thyme

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/3 cup whipping cream

Pound the pork cutlets thin. Dredge both sides in flour, salt, and pepper. Melt two tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add pork and cook until browned, approximately three minutes per side. Transfer cutlets to a plate and keep warm.

Melt remaining butter (or olive oil) in skillet and add shallots. Saute two minutes. Add vermouth and boil until reduced to a glaze of jam like consistency. Add stock, peppercorns, mustard, cream and thyme. Boil until reduced to a creamy consistency. Return pork to skillet and simmer until pork is cooked and sauce thickens.

Looking for…

A really good marinade or sauce for barbecued ribs. I know that this is often proprietary information, the sort of recipe fathers on their deathbeds whisper to the eldest son, but maybe someone out there will share?

Send queries or answers to Sandy Oliver, 1061 Main Road, Islesboro 04848. E-mail: tastebuds@prexar.com. For recipes, tell us where they came from. List ingredients, specify number of servings and do not abbreviate measurements. Include name, address and daytime phone number.