We all scream for ice cream

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When I was growing up in the ’60s on a dairy farm in Winslow, my mother would make homemade ice cream as a summertime treat. We all would take a turn at the crank, churning the canister in the salty, icy mixture.

As the canister rotated, the dasher scraped the frozen cream from the sides, incorporating air into the mixture, producing delicious frozen concoctions such as grapenut, blueberry-strawberry and coconut chocolate chip. Long before Ben & Jerry’s hit the scene, I became hooked on being able to create so many different flavors – at home.

My first ice cream maker was a wedding present: a hand-crank, bucket model that made 1 gallon of ice cream by using 21/2 pounds of rock salt and nearly 10 pounds of ice. When the gears stopped turning from so much use, I purchased a Donvier countertop model at a yard sale, eliminating the mess of rock salt and ice, but decreasing the yield to only 1 quart. My latest love, a Cuisinart Supreme ICE-50BC, allows me to make 11/2 quarts of outrageously delicious flavors whenever the whim strikes.

Homemade ice cream fans have several options when selecting a machine, which come in three basic styles. Bucket ice cream makers, the old-fashioned kind like the one I grew up with, use a combination of rock salt and ice to freeze the cream. They are either hand-cranked or driven by an electric motor.

Bucket ice cream makers boast a large capacity, producing 4 quarts or 1 gallon. Disadvantages include the noise (they are more suitable to the back porch or picnic table), and the quantity of ice required. Hamilton Beach makes a moderately priced model, while the White Mountain ice cream maker is the high-end version, primarily because of its looks and wooden bucket.

An entertaining “toy” is the UCO Play & Freeze ice cream maker. This model makes 1 quart in a canister placed inside a plastic ball filled with rock salt and ice. Rolling and shaking the ball provide the action that freezes the cream.

Countertop models have canisters that must be prefrozen, usually overnight. These canisters are insulated freezing chambers – a bucket with liquid suspended between inner and outer walls, which, when frozen, act as the chilling agent to freeze the ice cream.

Countertop models also may be hand-crank or electric-motor driven. These models’ capacity is less – only 1 or 11/2 quarts – but they are much more convenient. Krups and Cuisinart both feature electric models that make 11/2 quarts of delectably smooth, creamy ice cream in less than 30 minutes. The ice cream is a bit soft, and I like to harden it for a few hours in the freezer before serving. Donvier, which I used for several years, makes a hand-crank countertop model that yields 1 quart. Compared to the ice cream I made with my sister’s Cuisinart Ice-20, I found the Donvier’s ice cream texture to be more grainy, icy and dense. The Donvier price is similar to that of the Krups or Cuisinart, so unless you live in a place with limited electric power, I recommend one of the other models.

Canister-free ice cream makers have the distinct advantage over countertop models as their “cooling power” comes from a compressor. They don’t require prefreezing and you can make endless batches, but they come with steeper pricetags. The Lussino Dessert Maker is the Cadillac of all machines, while the Cuisinart Supreme ICE-50BC is a more moderately priced version. Both models make 11/2 quarts of high-quality, ready-to-serve ice cream. My Cuisinart Supreme ICE-50BC made five varieties of ice cream in one day! Specialty cookware stores such as Rooster Brothers in Ellsworth and The Good Table in Belfast sell all three styles of these ice cream machines.

Ice cream originated in the mountains of ancient China where snow was used as the base. Today there are countless varieties of frozen desserts. “Ice cream,” by federal standards, is any product that contains at least 10 percent milk fat. Most premium brands contain a much higher percentage.

Overrun is the term used to define the amount of air whipped into the mix. Without air, ice cream would be a solid frozen block and totally unpalatable. Commercial manufacturers may pump air into the mix after it’s frozen, a technique used to increase the yield. Premium ice creams and homemade ice creams have low overrun, or less air. The trade-off is an ice cream with a creamier texture and superior flavor but more calories and higher fat content.

Homemade ice cream is prepared from a base or mix. Mixes containing cream, milk and flavorings, such as Espresso Heath Bar Crunch, can be frozen immediately. Ice creams with a custard base, eggs cooked in heated milk and cream, such as Peppermint Stick and Maple Walnut, need to be chilled before freezing. Manufacturers will often chill the mix overnight, a process known as aging. This aging allows the proteins to swell and bind with the water molecules, producing a creamier product with a more satisfying texture.

My middle daughter loves ice cream, but just discovered she is allergic to milk. Strawberry Tofu Ice Cream and Chocolate Fudge Chunk are two delicious versions using silken tofu as a base. As they contain no eggs or dairy products, they can also be enjoyed by people who observe a vegan diet. For the lactose intolerant, try Orange Creamsicle Frozen Yogurt. Prepared from no-fat yogurt and frozen orange juice concentrate, its tart flavor reminds me of the creamsicles I used to buy from the ice cream truck and eat as a child, and it is a snap to make.

Sorbets are frozen desserts made of sweetened juice and water. Their origin can be traced to the popular Middle Eastern drink charbet. I like to experiment with infusions of herbs, such as mint and rosemary, and sometimes even incorporate champagne and wine into my sorbets. Grapefruit Mint Sorbet is a refreshingly light dessert. My latest sorbet is a sweet and sour, ruby-red treat made from the juice of beets. Nutritionally, beets play an important role in detoxifying homosysteine, the amino acid linked to heart disease. I like to serve heart-healthy Beet Sorbet as a palate cleanser in a multicourse meal.

Ice cream machines bring the fresh, just-churned flavor of ice cream parlor ice cream right to your kitchen. You can create whatever flavor combinations you crave: mint and Oreo cookies, chocolate and peanut butter, even banana-strawberry. The process is simple to master, so indulge your passion, invite me over to sample your creations, and enjoy!

Beet Sorbet

Makes four 1/2-cup servings

1 pound beets, trimmed and scrubbed

1 tablespoon champagne or white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup orange juice

1/2-3/4 cup sugar

Sea salt to taste

Boil beets in a large saucepan with 4 cups of water until they are pieced easily with a fork, about 30-40 minutes. Remove from heat. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine mesh strainer and reserve. Store the beets in the refrigerator for another use.

Add enough water to the liquid so you have 3 1/2 cups. Stir in the vinegar, sugar, lemon juice and orange juice. Taste and correct the seasonings. The taste should be a refreshing sweet and sour. Cool the liquid. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions.

Grapefruit-Mint Sorbet

Makes 8 servings

3 cups strained fresh grapefruit juice

3/4 cup sugar

1 cup fresh mint leaves

In a small saucepan, combine 1 cup grapefruit juice with the sugar and heat until the sugar is dissolved. Cool the mixture. In a blender, puree the sweetened grapefruit juice with the mint leaves, then add the remaining 2 cups grapefruit juice.

Taste and correct if necessary. Freeze the mixture in an ice cream freezer according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes a little less than 1 quart. Serve the sorbet garnished with a fresh mint leaf.

Peppermint Stick Ice Cream

Makes about 1 1/2 quarts

1 cup skim milk

1/2 cup light cream

1 tablespoon corn starch

3/4 cup crushed candy canes or candy peppermints (6 ounces)

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup cold light cream

2 egg yolks, slightly beaten

2 cups heavy cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 teaspoon peppermint extract

1 -2 tablespoons crushed peppermints

Heat 1 cup milk and 1/2 cup light cream in a medium saucepan on top of the stove. Stir in the crushed candy canes and 1/2 cup sugar, blending until well dissolved. Whisk the corn starch into the cold light cream, then slowly add to the hot milk. Cook and stir for about 10 minutes, then whisk in the egg yolks. Cook for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and strain into a bowl. Let the mixture cool slightly, then add cream and flavorings. Refrigerate mixture until cool. Freeze in an ice cream freezer according to manufacturer’s directions. About 5 minutes before the ice cream is set, add the crushed peppermints.

Orange Creamsicle Frozen Yogurt

Makes about 1 1/2 quarts, or 12 1/2-cup servings

1 32-ounce container fat-free vanilla yogurt

1 12-ounce container frozen orange juice concentrate

Combine yogurt and frozen orange juice concentrate in the bowl of food processor. Scrape mixture into bowl of ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer’s directions.

Strawberry Tofu Ice Cream

Makes about 1 1/2 quarts

1 pound silken tofu

1 cup sugar

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 quart fresh strawberries or one 16-ounce package frozen strawberries

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Wash and hull strawberries into a medium bowl. Cover with sugar and fresh lemon juice and allow them to sit at room temperature while juices marinate.

Drain the tofu. In bowl of food processor fitted with stainless steel blade, process the tofu until it is quite smooth, scraping down the sides. Scrape the tofu into a medium bowl. Without washing the food processor, pulse and puree strawberries until sugar is dissolved and they are almost a mush. Scrape into the bowl with the tofu. Add vanilla extract and mix to combine.

Taste mixture for sweetness, and, if necessary, add more sugar to taste. If desired, raspberries may be used instead.

Add the mixture to the bowl of your ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer’s directions.

Chocolate Fudge Chunk Ice Cream

Makes about 1 1/2 quarts

1 1-pound package silken tofu

3.5 ounces good quality chocolate (such as bittersweet or semisweet), chopped fine

1/3 cup cocoa powder

1 cup sugar

1/3 cup hot water

2 teaspoons vanilla

1 cup chocolate soy milk

1/2 cup toasted pecans, lightly chopped

1/2 cup chopped good-quality chocolate

In bowl of food processor fitted with stainless steel blade, puree tofu until it is completely smooth, scraping sides. In a medium glass bowl, combine the 3.5 ounces chocolate with cocoa powder. Add hot water and stir to melt. Stir in sugar and stir well until sugar is dissolved. If necessary, warm mixture slightly in microwave to finish melting. Add chocolate mixture to tofu in food processor. Pulse to combine. Add chocolate soy milk, mixing well. Scrape mixture into bowl of ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer’s directions. About 5 minutes before ice cream is set, add chopped pecans and chopped chocolate.

Maple Walnut Ice Cream

Makes about 1 1/2 quarts

1 cup skim milk

1 cup light cream

1 cup Maine maple syrup

3 egg yolks

1/2 cup sugar

2 cups heavy cream

1 tablespoons maple-flavored extract

1/2 cup toasted walnuts, coarsely chopped

Heat skim milk and light cream in medium saucepan on top of stove until it just starts to simmer. Stir in 1/2 cup sugar, mixing until dissolved. In small bowl, whisk egg yolks into maple syrup. Add egg mixture to hot milk, whisking and cooking until mixture just starts to thicken. Remove mixture from heat and strain into a bowl. Stir in heavy cream and maple extract. Taste and adjust sugar or extract if necessary. Refrigerate mixture overnight for best flavor, or until cold. Pour into bowl of ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer’s directions. About 5 minutes before ice cream is set, add the chopped walnuts.

Espresso Heath Bar Ice Cream

Makes about 1 1/2 quarts

1 cup skim milk, warmed slightly

1 1/2 cups sugar

4 tablespoons instant espresso (available at health food store) or instant coffee

1 cup light cream

2 cups heavy cream

1 cup, about 5 ounces, Heath Bar bits or four regular-size candy bars, broken into bits

Warm skim milk slightly and dissolve sugar in the milk. In large bowl or blender, combine sugared milk with the light cream, 4 tablespoons instant espresso, light cream and heavy cream. Pour into bowl of ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer’s directions. About 5 minutes before ice cream is set, add Heath Bar bits.

Cuisinart Supreme ICE-50BC

Type: motor with a compressor, no canister

Yield: 11/2 quart

Price: $225-$249.95

Musso Lussino Dessert Maker 4080

Type: stainless steel machine with built-in freezing unit, which doesn’t require ice or salt.

Yield: 11/2 quarts

Price: $594.95

White Mountain Ice Cream Maker

Type: wooden bucket with electric or manual crank

Yield: 1 gallon

Price: $149 (manual), $199.95 (electric)

Hamilton Beach Ice Cream Maker 68330

Type: bucket-style, electric crank

Yield: 4 quarts

Price: $23-$37.45

Krups Ice Cream Maker

Type: bowl-style, electric-driven

Yield: 11/2 quarts

Price: $49.95

Cuisinart ICE-20

Type: canister-style, electric-driven

Yield: 11/2 quarts

Price: $27-$80

UCO Play & Freeze Ice Cream Maker

Type: Soccer ball-shaped machine that can be shaken, rolled and passed around

Yield: 1 pint

Price: $28-$30