Have you noticed how during the last 25 years or so that outdoor sports have become far less pedestrian and more motor dependent? Four-wheel drive trucks, four- and six-wheel ATVs, snowmobiles, and personal watercraft are all transporting sportsmen to areas that used to require a good deal of walking to hunt or fish. In many situations I’m grateful for the wide variety of mechanical assistance, but one traditional pastime is waning due to modern technology and I don’t care for that trend.

Fewer and fewer anglers are wade fishing any more. Boats, canoes, kayaks, and float tubes create casting platforms and floating transportation for most saltwater or freshwater fishing exploits and there’s little need to don waders and walk waterways. I understand the necessity of watercraft for spring trolling, lead-core lake fishing, casting over deep ponds in remote wilderness, and deep sea fishing, but for local rivers and streams nothing makes the casting and catching more intimate between game fish and fisherman than getting out in the water.

Some of my most precious memories as an adolescent angler involve wading a woods-lined creek in jeans and hightop Keds with a bait rod and tobacco can full of worms. It was like being part of nature, and on sunny summer outings it was downright refreshing. I still wade at every opportunity, albeit with hip boots or chest boots, and I enjoy a more personal satisfaction and closer ties with Maine’s fly fishing heritage when I’m afoot rather than afloat. Perhaps more sports would revert to wade fishing if selecting the right set of boots from the growing myriad of options weren’t such a chore.

Which waders?

Let me be straight right from the start. If you’re a multisport early spring to late fall outdoorsman who plans on fishing big rivers, small brooks, pond edges, and seacoast ledges, as well as waterfowling or big-game hunting along waterways, one set of waders isn’t going to fit the bill. Let’s review a few of the available options that are dependable, durable, comfortable, and multipurpose, and then we can discuss advantages and disadvantages of specific styles. After that we’ll give some thought to special features and safety. Just for argument’s sake, let’s pretend one set of waders will suffice and make decisions accordingly.

First, each sportsman needs to consider what depth of water will be visited most often and decide on hip boot, waist-high waders, or chest-high waders. Hip waders are cooler in hot weather, easier to don and doff and less expensive, but they are only effective in 3 feet of depth, give or take a few inches depending on the wearer’s height.

Waist and chest models allow deeper wading but are more cumbersome to transport and wear. They are much more confining, and many styles trap and hold body heat. High-rise waders have the plus of allowing the wearer to sit on the bank or a midstream rock with no fear of a wet rear end. Hunters can walk through wet brush, sit or crawl through mud, or stand out in a heavy rainstorm with most of their body kept dry and clean thanks to chest boots. Only a few companies manufacture waist-high waders, but they are a good compromise for many cast-and-blast situations. One salient point to consider is that chest waders can become waist height by simply rolling them down to their belt level.

Step two in the selection process is deciding what wader material best fits individual needs, and this is where comfort and durability become prime requisites. Spring ice-out anglers and late-fall fishermen and hunters will get notably more warmth from neoprene waders, which come in 3- and 5-millimeter thicknesses. Heavier neoprene not only holds in more heat and resists cold but is far more durable as well; in fact, many duck and goose gunners wear their chest neoprenes for field hunts in frosty or snowy conditions.

Heavy rubber or layered canvas and rubber is a second material option. While these waders are strong and resilient in all water and weather conditions, sun exposure and ozone tend to cause a breakdown in material over the years. While most popular in hip boots, rubber and canvas-rubber combos are available in a few waist and chest styles as well. Since most rubber boots are meant for use in extremely cold weather and water conditions, many have an insulated lining, Thinsulate for example, to assure warm feet.

Breathable waders are the up-and-coming trend. Slanted especially toward fishermen and warm-weather use, they allow excellent mobility and comfort in the warmest conditions. Most breathable waders are constructed of four layers of materials: nylon, polyurethane, and tricot are commonly sandwiched around a breathable membrane to keep the boots thin and lightweight yet fully waterproof, abrasion resistant, and cool and dry inside via water vapor exchange. Top-of-the-line models have extra layers of material in the seat, knees, and lower legs for extended wear. Some waders use a brushed fabric outer layer for softness and stealth in case the boots are used for hunting in brushy confines.

One caveat to purchasing chest or waist waders is that proper fit is crucial. This is more of a problem with breathable canvas or rubber versions than the body-hugging neoprene variety. Too much slack in the legs and ankles, and any bagginess in the seat or waist, will only serve to billow out in fast current and put undo pressure on the legs. It’s possible to actually be swept off your feet while taking a step in rapid water or have the extra material bind the leg leading to a trip or misstep on slippery, uneven rocks. Top-of-the line waders will have a wide range of options for every shape and size of sportsman, with chest, inseam, height, weight, and foot size all criteria in various combinations for a more perfect fit. Select carefully and try on the waders and move about, sit, and kneel on land before heading for water.

Safe and sure-footed

Staying upright and dry while wearing waders of any style is very important to enjoying an outing, and that’s where selecting a foot style comes into play. Boot foot and stocking foot are the two choices, and opinions are vast and varied and debate a certainty among sportsmen on which style is better. Boot-foot models feature a heavyweight rubber boot, of a size to fit the wearer’s foot while wearing a moderate-weight stocking, as the terminal part of each leg. Stocking-foot waders have a soft neoprene, foot-hugging bootie below each wader ankle and require a separate set of wading shoes or boots to protect the feet.

Boot-foot models are quick and easy to slip on, are packed as one piece so there’s no chance of leaving parts behind, and tend to be somewhat less expensive. Stocking-foot and wading-shoe combos boast a better fit with no slip or slide in the boot, more ankle and foot support on uneven ground or streambeds, and all-day comfort due to lighter weight and exact sizing. Possible drawbacks to the stocking foot design are the chance of forgetting one or both boots, breaking a lace with no replacement at hand, the need for gravel guards, and, of course, the extra cost. Despite these potential drawbacks, stocking-foot chest waders or waist waders and wading shoes are the big sellers among fly fishermen and waterfowl hunters who often spend as much time walking in mud, reeds, and rough terrain to reach an area as they do wading once they arrive. Velcro-closure boots are my favorite for quick on and off with no broken laces.

Whether boot-foot or wading shoes are the final pick, now outdoorsmen must choose the best sole material for their particular style of wading. Ocean casting along sandy beaches, clambering and casting from saltwater shoreline ledges, slogging through mud bottom pond edges, or tip-toeing over uneven, slippery brook bottoms and rolling, unstable river rocks all can be overcome with the right boot-bottom tread. Deep-grooved rubber treads, metal-studded boot soles, or felt-lined boot bottoms are the basic options. Each has a particular forte and sportsmen must match the assets of each to their most prevalent wading situations.

Now that the three main criteria have been settled on, a few more features and accessories need to be considered. Be sure chest and waist waders have a firmly attached, easy-to-use wading belt. A set of wide, comfortable suspenders are essential, elastic with Velcro fastening makes hookup easy, and if suspenders are detachable and multiadjustable, so much the better. Attached gravel guards are better than separate pull-on sleeves that can slide around or get misplaced between uses. I like a zippered inside storage pocket in the front chest area. I call it my kangaroo pouch for small essentials such as clippers, leaders, magnifying lens, or a small flashlight.

How about colors? Waders for fish and fowl outdoorsmen should be some pattern of camouflage or at least a marine green shade to help blend into the background. For fishing waders, a tan or brown shade is fairly common in breathable models, while dark brown, gray and olive are prominent neoprene and rubber boot colors. For those who can get past the stigma of looking old and see the true benefit, a folding wading staff is a true asset for any wading venture and hangs innocuously on the wader belt when not in use.

Safe wading

Go down in high, fast water wearing a set of waders and it can spell disaster, yet most anglers seldom consider such an incident. Avoid going too deep. At chest level the body becomes somewhat buoyant in waders and slips and missteps become more likely. It may seem better to shuffle the feet along stream bottom to prevent slipping, but in truth this often leads to tripping, not to mention extra noise and motion stirring up debris and mud that alerts downstream fish to your presence. Take short steps, lift and place the forward foot and slowly apply weight, in case a rock moves or proves slippery.

Cross streams at an angle, upstream and cross current when possible so the brunt of moving water isn’t directly behind or full at the side. In clear water, look before placing each step and take distortion into consideration. When brooks are muddy or off-color, use short, feeling steps and a wading staff or sturdy walking stick from a shoreline tree.

Few angling outings are as tranquil and satisfying as wading a forest-lined creek, listening to the birds, spotting wildlife, and casting a fly to native brook trout. No noisy motors, no boat wakes, and seldom another fisherman; wading offers solitude and camaraderie with nature. Once you get past the chore of selecting the right waders, the rest is all enjoyment. But don’t forget, it may take more than one set to meet some sportsmen’s needs. I have at least three varieties, and you know what? Every once in awhile on a bright summer day, I’d like to just forget the new-fangled waders and go back to the blue jeans and hightop Keds that I fished in as a kid. Either way, wading is a great way to fish Maine’s waterways.

Outdoor feature writer Bill Graves can be reached via e-mail at bgravesoutdoors@ainop.com