York’s Dairy Bar

North Road, Houlton

532-6079

As I was driving around the Shiretown on a recent Saturday, looking for somewhere to grab some lunch, I spied a squat little building sitting in between a gas station and a car dealership. A row of cars was parked out front, and a long line of folks getting their food had formed. Perfect, I thought.

York’s Dairy Bar is one of the few Maine eating establishments run in the traditional way: drive up, place your order, and then wait for it to be announced over the loudspeaker. First, staff lift open one of two windows and stick their heads out to get your order, and give you a popsicle stick with your number on it, just so you don’t forget. Some nights when they have “car hop” service, they’ll bring the food right to your vehicle.

Burgers, fries, shakes, clam rolls and ice cream. No, it’s nothing original. Yes, it’s comfort food, and as I carried my lunch over to one of the picnic tables scattered around, I saw parents with kids who precariously balanced sky-high spirals of soft-serve, an older couple noshing on hamburgers and teenagers crammed into a car, laughing and digging into their food. Family-friendly isn’t the half of it.

And for $6.95 I got two small cheeseburgers, crisp fries and homemade coleslaw, which really hit the spot, since I’d skipped breakfast. Washed it down with an ice-cold Coke, which was great for the hot, muggy afternoon and made me feel pleasantly American. Too bad I didn’t have room for some of that soft-serve.