Kayaking gives paddler view of ‘front yard’ Hidden homes a sight to sea

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While I may not be pushing the envelope anymore, I still find adventure in getting out on the water in a skinny little kayak and taking in the scenery.

Part of the satisfaction is just being on the water. And since I’ll never have the wherewithal to have a craft of larger proportions, I’m content in knowing I can satisfy that little bit of Leif Erickson in me. When I rode my mountain bike (back when), I could satisfy that same explorer in me on land.

Of water and land, however, I think I like water just a tad better. Why? On water you can see a side of people’s lives they often don’t want you to see – no one builds a fence on the shoreline, it’s always on the road side. That leaves the front yard wide open. I’ve paddled through Cap Weinberger’s “front yard” in Somes Sound, Parker Stevenson’s “front yard” on Dark Harbor in Islesboro, John Travolta’s on Sabbathday Harbor in Islesboro, and through the front yards of hundreds of the well-to-do along our coast.

As nice as some of these trophy homes might seen, however, the real gems of our coast are the places where no building has taken place. And while the number of these places is diminishing, there are still places to paddle where you can feel like you’re the first person to be seeing them.

For example, about 10 years ago I paddled down the Penobscot River from Bangor to Bucksport and even today there are memories of how surprised I was to see stretches of riverbank that were not developed. The same feeling comes when I paddle up to one of the islands on the Maine Island Trail. While in my heart I know hundreds have been here before, there’s a feeling that I’m the first.

Ever-expanding development, however, is taking its toll.

Last weekend when my brother Dan was visiting Milbridge from Chicago, we took a paddling trip south from our parents’ place to the southern end of Tom Leighton Point. It has been a couple of years since I made this three-plus-mile paddle. While there are still a few stretches of coastline that appear untouched, there are a surprising number of huge houses dotting the shore. It was eye opening.

After the family left Saturday morning, I walked the 21/2 miles down the Tom Leighton Point Road to the end of the point and noted the number of new “driveways” that have been hacked into the woods. Not one of those new roads revealed a building from the road, but they each wound up at one of the estates we saw from the water.

Later in the day when the fog had burned off, I hopped in my kayak and paddled north, up the point to Milbridge. Closer to town the development is older, although there are four or five new places that have sprung up in the past few years. I predict it won’t be long before the whole shoreline of the point is developed.

An outgoing tide helped offset the stiff on-shore breeze as I headed southward toward my launch site. Near shore the water was relatively calm, but in the channel the whitecaps pointed out the strong current. I chose a route about halfway between that took me through the moored fleet of lobster boats, back from their morning haul.

By the time I got back to my car I was ready to get out of my boat. I needed to get back to camp, clean up gear, and finish some chores. Some heavy weather was heading east from Bangor and I wanted to be buttoned down before it hit. It turned out I ran into the worst weather just as I crossed the Chamberlain Bridge in Bangor. It looked as if someone had lowered a giant wet curtain along Main Street.

Coastweek Cleanup

The State Planning Office’s Maine Coastal Program will celebrate the 20th annual Coastweek Sept. 16-23 beginning with the highly popular Coastal Cleanup today.

According to Theresa Torrent-Ellis, Maine’s Cleanup Coordinator, each year some 2,000 volunteers turn out to scour beaches and harbors – in all some 111 miles of coastline – picking up more than eight tons of trash.

“Besides being unsightly on Maine’s beautiful coastline,” said Torrent-Ellis, “trash in our coastal waters is dangerous to fish and wildlife, threatens our high quality coastal habitats, and damages boats and engines.”

Coastweek is part of an international effort – some 140 nations – to keep trash out of the ocean. In the past 20 years, some 6.2 million volunteers have removed a total of 109 million pounds of debris from the world’s beaches and waterways, according to John Phillips, director of the New England office of the Ocean Conservancy.

Having participated in numerous Maine Island Trail Association cleanups, I can attest to Torrent-Ellis’ next comment: “Most of the debris in the ocean is plastic.”

She said that “plastic does not decompose, but rather breaks down into smaller and smaller pieces – in sizes that are easy for fish and wildlife to ingest.”

“The threat from plastic pollution in the ocean is not yet well understood,” she said, “but it could prove to be a substantial source of toxic contamination for marine life. … In studies in California (www.mindfully.org/Plastic/Synthetic-Sea-Moore.htm and Plastic Debris, Rivers to Sea Project California Coastal Commission), bits and pieces of plastic actually outnumber phytoplankton – microscopic floating plants that are the most important food source for marine life.”

If you would like to participate in a beach cleanup during Coastweek 2006, visit the Maine Coastal Program’s Coastweek Web site at www.mainecoastweek.org. If you need assistance with registering your cleanup, call Torrent-Ellis at 287-2351.

Northern Forest Canoe Trail

Perhaps you saw last weekend’s New York Times spread on the Northern Forest Canoe Trail. If you didn’t, try to catch it online. While it is written from the New York perspective, it still gives you a taste of what this 740-mile paddle and portage trail from Fort Kent to Old Forge, N.Y., (through New Hampshire, Vermont, and Quebec) using mostly Native American water trails.

In Maine the trail crosses 347 miles, while in New Hampshire it crosses 72 miles, Vermont and Quebec have 174 miles, and New York has 147 miles.

If you were to travel the whole trail, you’d paddle 22 rivers and streams, 56 lakes and ponds, portage 62 times for a total of 55 miles, and pass through three National Wildlife Refuges and 45 towns.

Should you contemplate such a journey, or if you’re just interested in reading about the trail and the philosophy behind it, check out the organization’s new book, “Paddling Through Time.”

This 64-page book invites readers to explore the heritage of the 740-mile water trail, following geographical, human, cultural, and natural currents. Paddlers, historians, and anyone with affection for the powerful combination of humans and boats will find information, insight, and inspiration in this full-color, lively book in a 6-by-9-inch format.

“Our intent in producing this book,” said Kate Williams, NFCT’s executive director, “is to share with a wide audience the fascinating heritage that is such a vital aspect of our recreational Trail. We hope the book will serve to forge deeper connections between paddlers, visitors, and residents, and the rich and storied Northern Forest region.”

NFCT plans to donate copies of “Paddling Through Time” to local schools and historical societies in the communities along the water trail route as a way to foster these connections with place and to spark programs that educate and inspire young and old alike about the history flowing just outside their backdoors.

To learn more about the Trail, and to order a copy of “Paddling Through Time,” visit www.northernforestcanoetrail.org or write to P.O. Box 565 Waitsfield, VT 05673.

Local hike

Here are two opportunities for taking a hike in the Bangor area. The Maine Outdoor Adventure Club meets every Wednesday at 5:30 p.m. at City Forest Parking Lot for a chance to explore City Forest trails. Also, the Bangor Land Trust is meeting once a month for a short trek. This month they meet Thursday at 5:30 p.m. They meet at Epic Sports and then decide where to go. Last month was Prentiss Woods.

Jeff Strout’s column on outdoor recreation is published each Saturday. He can be reached at 990-8202 or by e-mail at jstrout@bangordailynews.net.