Flash in the pancakes Simple breakfast staple a cinch to prepare, a delight to eat

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Pancakes are simple foods that have been providing nourishment for thousands of years. As one of the oldest form of breads, the versatile pancake has hundreds of variations. Pancakes can be served for breakfast, tucked into a lunchbox, served with fruit for dessert or creamy sauces for a light supper. Making pancakes is really a simple process and even if you never cook, I guarantee you can whip up a batch and sit down to a meal that is hearty and healthy.

“The Pancake Handbook: Specialties from Bette’s Oceanview Diner” by Steve Siegelman, Bette Kroening and Sue Conley, offers delicious recipes for perfect pancakes and several helpful tips. Your most important tool is the griddle. Years ago, when I had a restaurant, I made thousands of pancakes on a classic sheet grill or flat-top. If you are like most home cooks and don’t have a griddle built onto your stove, Lodge makes a beautiful cast-iron griddle that spans two burners. For a smaller family, a large, well-seasoned, cast-iron skillet works well. I have never had much success with steel or nonstick pans, producing pancakes that were burnt on the edges and raw in the middle.

The griddle should be lightly greased, wiped clean with paper towels when done, and never washed with soap and water. The patina of age and baked-on grease makes for perfect pancakes: golden brown, beautifully round and evenly risen, light and fluffy. The temperature of your cooking surface needs to be right around 375 degrees. To test, sprinkle a few droplets of water on the griddle. If they jump and dance, the heat is just right. However, if the water vaporizes instantly, the surface is too hot. Water that boils and steams listlessly indicates that your surface is too cool. I sometimes test with a small pancake to make sure … my dogs are always happy with the results.

The consistency of your pancake batter is important, too. Batter that is too thin runs all over and makes flat, thin pancakes. Batter that is too thick doesn’t spread properly and the pancakes are doughy in the middle. The age of your flour, the type of flour, how long the batter sits, even the weather contribute to the consistency. Don’t over-mix the batter, just add the wet ingredients to the dry ones all at once. Stir until just combined and don’t worry about small lumps. Batters made with wheat flour tend to thicken as they stand. To thin a batter, gently stir in a small amount of milk. Test by trying a pancake and add a bit more milk if needed. Batter that is too thin makes better crepes!

As “The Pancake Handbook” says, “a good pancake, like a bad politician, is full of hot air.” What makes pancakes rise and makes them light and fluffy are the bubbles of air trapped in the batter that expand during cooking. There are three basic methods of getting air into batter: using yeast, folding in egg whites, or using baking powder or baking soda. Traditionally, the leavening agents used in pancakes are baking powder or baking soda, making pancakes a type of “quick” bread.

Waffles are another form of quick bread that are also leavened with baking powder and often have beaten egg whites folded into them. I must confess that I have had a love affair with waffles for more than 31 years. Michael, the best man at our wedding, gave us a rectangular waffle iron. Since then, my iron collection has expanded to include a heart waffler, a round waffle iron, and just recently a Belgian waffle maker made by Cuisinart. Whatever shape they take, I find the melt-in-your-mouth buttery flavor and crisp, light texture of waffles habit-forming. They are the ultimate in comfort food: golden savory crust wrapped around a soft, billowy center adorned with melted butter, warm Maine maple syrup, wild blueberries, sauteed crisp apples … what could be more heavenly?

Waffles are the perfect breakfast food, particularly when made with a whole-grain flour and topped with fruit. Extra waffles freeze beautifully in a zip-lock plastic bag and can be popped in the toaster for breakfast on the run. I make savory waffles for brunch, serve them for supper, even build fabulous parties around waffles. The combinations are endless, but just like pancakes, there are a few tricks of the trade.

First, read the manufacturer’s instructions that come with your waffle iron. Some irons need “seasoning,” all need preheating, and most need to be lightly greased before baking. Some waffle batters need a little help spreading evenly over the grids. Pour the recommended batter amount into the center of the iron and spread with a spatula to fill. Don’t peek during the first two minutes of baking! The result may be that your waffle separates. Waffles are best eaten hot off the grids, but they may be kept warm on the rack in a 200-degree oven.

My favorite topping for waffles and pancakes is Maine maple syrup. Often I’ll saute apple slices in syrup or gently heat frozen wild blueberries in a pan on top of the stove. Peach or pear slices are also good, as are pecans and walnuts. For the banana lover in your family, gently cook banana slices in syrup, or try making Banana Upside Down Pancakes for a real treat. Almost all recipes for pancake batter can be baked into waffles. The additional step of separating the egg yolks from the whites, beating the egg whites until stiff and folding them into the batter produces a more tender waffle.

Pancakes and waffles are the ultimate convenience food. To make them perfectly requires only a little practice and patience. The ingredients cost very little and the extras freeze wonderfully. Before you know it, you’ll be bypassing those cardboard packaged waffles in the supermarket and creating your own masterpieces. In today’s busy world, what could be more satisfying than that?

Bette’s Diner Buttermilk Pancakes

Makes about 24 4-inch pancakes

2 cups all purpose flour

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoons baking soda

2 eggs

2 cups buttermilk *

1/2 cup milk

1/4 cup butter melted or canola oil

Optional: 1 cup chocolate chips or 1 cup blueberries folded into the batter

In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and baking soda. In a separate bowl, lightly beat the eggs, buttermilk, milk and butter. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients all at once, stirring just to blend. The batter should be slightly lumpy and quite thick. Let the batter rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

Heat a lightly oiled griddle or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Pour 1/4-cup measures of the batter onto the griddle, spacing them apart. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until bubbles cover the surface of the pancakes, and their undersides are lightly browned. Gently turn them over and cook for about 2 minutes more, until the other sides are browned.

*Cook’s note: No buttermilk? Substitute 2 cups of yogurt or sour cream for the buttermilk. You may need to add a little extra milk to thin the batter.

Cornmeal Waffles with Creamy Mushroom Sauce

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup cornmeal

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/3 cup corn kernels (optional)

2 eggs, separated

1 1/4 cup buttermilk

1/4 cup canola oil

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder and baking soda. Stir in the corn kernels. Separate the eggs, and beat the egg whites until stiff. In a small bowl, beat together the egg yolks, buttermilk and canola oil. Stir into the flour mixture. Fold in the beaten egg whites. Pour the manufacturer’s recommended amount of batter into a hot waffle iron and bake until it stops steaming and is nicely browned. Serve with Creamy Mushroom Sauce.

Creamy Mushroom Sauce

Makes four servings

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 pound button mushrooms, thinly sliced

1/4 pound shiitake or Maitake (Hen of the Woods) mushrooms*, chopped

1/2 cup white wine

Sea salt and fresh pepper to taste

1/2 cup low-fat sour cream

2/3 cup shredded Fontina or Gruyere cheese

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

In a saute pan over medium heat, heat the olive oil until just under the smoke point. Add the onions and stir, cooking until they start to brown. Add the mushrooms and saut? until they are soft and give up their water. Pour in the wine, bring to a boil, and cook, scraping off the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Reduce the liquid, stir in the sour cream and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and stir in the cheese and chopped parsley. Serve atop a Cornmeal Waffle.

*Cook’s note: Maitake or Hen of the Woods mushrooms grow wild and are also cultivated here in Maine. Look for them at your health food store, farmers market or local food co-op.

Applesauce Pancakes

Makes about 16 4-inch pancakes

2 cups all purpose flour

3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon cinnamon

2 eggs

1 1/2 cups skim milk

1/2 cup applesauce, plus more for serving

In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, sugar, baking powder and cinnamon. In a small bowl, lightly beat together the milk, eggs and applesauce. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients all at once, stirring just to blend. The batter should be slightly lumpy. Let the batter rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

Heat a lightly oiled griddle or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Pour 1/4-cup measures of the batter onto the hot griddle, spacing them apart. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until bubbles cover the surface of the pancakes, and their undersides are lightly browned. Gently turn them over and cook for about 2 minutes more, until the other sides are browned. Serve with warm applesauce.

Recipe adapted from “The Pancake Handbook.”

Banana Upside Down Pancakes

Makes about 24 4-inch pancakes

2 cups all purpose flour

2 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

2 eggs

2 cups buttermilk

1/2 cup milk

1/4 cup melted butter or canola oil

3 ripe bananas

2 tablespoons sugar

Slice the bananas crosswise into 1/8-1/4 inch slices into a bowl. Toss with 2 tablespoons of sugar. Set aside.

In a large bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and baking soda. In a separate bowl, lightly beat the eggs, buttermilk, milk and butter. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients all at once, stirring just to blend. The batter should be slightly lumpy and quite thick. Let the batter rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

Heat a well-oiled griddle or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. For each pancake, place 4 or 5 banana slices directly on the griddle in a circle slightly smaller than your finished pancake will be; immediately pour 1/4 cup batter over the bananas to cover them. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until bubbles cover the surface of the pancakes. Gently turn them and cook for about 2 minutes more, until the other sides are browned. When you flip the pancakes, the sugared banana slices will be face-up and become deliciously and attractively caramelized. Serve with Maine maple syrup.

Adapted from The Pancake Handbook.

Cottage Cheese Pancakes

Makes about 12 to 16 3-inch pancakes

3 eggs separated

3/4 cup cottage cheese

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

Sour cream and jam for serving

In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks until thick and pale. Stir in the cottage cheese. Add the flour, stirring just to combine. Place the egg whites in a separate bowl. With an electric mixer or egg beater, beat the whites until stiff but not dry. Gently fold the egg whites into the yolk mixture, just until combined.

Heat a lightly oiled griddle or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Pour the batter by heaping tablespoons onto the hot griddle, spacing them apart. Cook for about 2 minutes, until bubbles cover the surface of the pancakes and their undersides are lightly browned. Gently turn them over and cook for about 2 minutes more, until the other sides are browned. Serve with sour cream and jam.

Adapted from “The Pancake Handbook.”

Cheryl’s Basic Waffles

Makes about 4 6-inch waffles

1 cup whole meal or all purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup skim milk

2 eggs, separated

1/4 cup canola oil

Maine maple syrup for serving

Optional: Fold 1/2 cup chocolate chips or 1/2 cup blueberries into the batter

Preheat the waffle iron.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, sugar and freshly grated nutmeg. In a small bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff. Without washing the beaters, beat the egg yolks, oil and milk together in a medium bowl. Stir into the dry ingredients. Fold in the egg whites.

Pour the manufacturer’s recommended amount of batter into the waffle iron. Bake until crisp. Serve with warm Maine maple syrup.