Most big game, waterfowl, and even upland bird seasons sadly come to an end this month or next. This means that except for varmint rifles and rabbit hunting guns, it’s time for most of our favorite firearms to be cleaned and stored until this cold spell is over. A generation ago, a few barrel-cleaning patches, a soft rag for exterior cleanup, a bottle of Hoppe’s No. 9, and a small can of oil were all the ingredients necessary to prepare a gun for winter layaway. Currently, a good quality deer rifle and scope cost more than my dad’s first car, and prices on top-of-the-line rifles, shotguns and handguns set up for hunting can equal the down payment on our parents’ first home.

With this in mind it’s easy to understand that top-quality shooting equipment needs and deserves above-average care and maintenance to assure dependability and preserve value. Long gone are the days of running a ramrod and solvent-soaked patch through the bore a couple of times, then giving the wood and metal exterior a quick once-over with oil and a rag before leaning “Ole Betsy” in the hall closet until next bird or deer season. Now, not only must function, accuracy, interior integrity, and exterior appearance be maintained at the highest level, but storage and safety during the offseason are major issues as well.

Cleaning materials

Compared to just 10 years ago the array of gun cleaning supplies has exploded in variety, and more importantly, the products have greatly improved in quality and effectiveness. Every gun owner needs a full selection of cleaning equipment, which I refer to as hardware, as well as an assortment of rags, patches, solvents, lubricants and protectants, which I call software. Obviously, the number of guns owned and the diversity of gauges and calibers will determine just how extensive a stockpile of hard and soft cleaning supplies are required.

Multisection ramrods are a great convenience for storage and travel compared to one-piece cleaning rods, and there should be one small-diameter brass rod with a sturdy handle for rifles and pistols and a thicker rod for shotguns. Interchangeable screw-in tips to fit each individual rod should include a bronze or nylon (never steel) bore brush to fit each caliber and gauge gun; a set of screw-in bore-mop tips with multiple sizes; an assorted set of brass jags; one each brass muzzle guard for rifle and shotgun; a set of three double-end brushes that resemble a toothbrush with steel, bronze, and nylon bristle selections; a set of plastic, slotted tips for patches; and a set of breech, bore and choke cleaning utility brushes.

In the way of soft supplies, it’s wise to have 1-, 2- and 3-inch-square cleaning patches for interior cleaning, and a half-dozen larger rags for exterior use. Old T-shirts, washcloths, and even bed sheets can be cut up into soft, absorbent cleaning rags that can be discarded after one or two uses. A long-handled paintbrush with 2-inch soft bristles or a shaving brush are great for cleaning debris from small crevices and delicate mechanisms, and a brass nail punch to remove set pins is another necessity. Polishing cloths are rough surfaced and impregnated with a special cleaner to scrub away powder residue, burn marks, and corrosion from metal surfaces of the chamber and action, and they should be in every kit. Whether you use a tool bench in the cellar or the dining room table as a gun cleaning space, it’s imperative to have a protective mat to work on. Several layers of newspaper or a thick towel will do, but for 10 bucks, a 11/2-foot by 4-foot nonslip absorbent cleaning mat can be purchased and will last for years.

Part two of the software includes liquids, sprays, gels, oils and greases. Some are for cleaning and others for protection and all assure a dependable firearm when used correctly. Proven products include Gun Scrubber solvent and degreaser, Super Strength Bore Scrubber spray for copper and nitro fouling, and Sheath spray or individual wipes that repel water and prevent rust. All of these products are produced by Birchwood Casey and can be found at most sporting goods stores and gun shops. Shooters Choice Co. manufactures excellent MC No. 7 cleaner, lead and copper removal solutions, FP10 all-purpose lubricant to prevent friction and wear, and Quick Scrubber III. Add a can of light oil, a small tube of grease, and another of choke lube and you’re ready to clean anything short of a howitzer.

There are a number of preassembled cleaning kits available at reasonable prices, but none supply the complete range of cleaning hardware, software, and liquids I’ve mentioned. From experience let me suggest buying the largest assortment of quality rods, brushes, mops and jags you can find in one kit and then purchase patches, liquids and other paraphernalia separately. If you don’t have a permanent gun-cleaning bench to store all the tools and essentials in one spot, for easy access, try a medium-size fishing tackle box. Not only does it keep everything together, it’s very portable. Select one with a spacious, open-bottom compartment, and stair-step rows of multi-sized trays that elevate when the top is lifted.

Dos and don’ts

Thanks to advanced technology in recoil reduction systems, trigger and safety mechanisms, loading and ejection actions and smokeless ammunition, modern guns are nearly maintenance free – nearly. Although double-barrels and pump guns will continue to perform after a tremendous amount of neglect, autoloaders will not, and no gun should have to. Unlike old black-powder rifles and scatterguns that used somewhat corrosive and dirty early paper and plastic shells, cleaning contemporary firearms is a breeze. While a perfunctory cleanup every half-dozen outings or after being out in heavy rain or snow is a good idea, the year-end cleaning must be thorough and intense. Also, after any saltwater gunning trip, a complete dismantling and scrubbing is a must to prevent rust and corrosion. First and foremost, always make sure the gun is unloaded. A lot of dead men were cleaning “empty” guns!

Don’t attempt to disassemble a gun beyond the directions in the operator’s manual. Do remove the barreled action from the stock, take out the bolt system and trigger mechanism, and separate the gas or recoil system on semi-autos to clean them well. Check scope rings and mounts, and use lens cleaner and an eyeglass cloth on optics. If you’re not comfortable with a major disassemble, have the local gunsmith do the job. The cost will be minimal for a top-rate cleaning.

Do not overlubricate with oils and greases. A little on friction points and moving parts will help; a lot will just attract and hold debris, dirt and dust. During cold weather too much lubricant can slow the action or seize up the firing pin on semi-autos and lead to misfires. Use twice as much solvent and degreaser as you think you need to remove all the old oil and grease and all the extraneous powder, grass, twigs, and other detritus of a long season. Don’t spare the rust preventative, inside and out, spray it on and wipe the surfaces dry. After cleaning, stand the gun in a corner barrel end down on a piece of cloth so excess fluids drain out rather than down into the stock. Wipe the gun down again before storage.

Never store a gun in a zippered gun case since this only serves to trap moisture when temperatures change, which promotes rust. Invest in a gun safe, new models have humidity control units to protect expensive firearms. An average-size gun safe will offer theft security for more than a dozen long guns and half a dozen handguns, as well as keep guns away from young or inexperienced hands. Most top-quality gun safes offer fire protection as well. If you only own one or two long guns, at least consider silicone-impregnated gun socks to keep dust out and allow air to circulate.

Quality firearms not only require but deserve special attention. Clean them thoroughly and properly, store them correctly and they will not only dependably serve you but the next generation of hunters in the family as well.

Outdoor feature writer Bill Graves can be reached via e-mail at bgravesoutdoors@ainop.com