Way down at the southern tip of Hancock County, out in the ocean just before Knox County begins, there’s a little island you and I own called Steves. It’s on the charts, but it may not be named on some because it’s so small.
And unless you know where you’re going, it’s pretty easy to get mixed up, what with all the other islands laying about like toys scattered on a child’s bedroom floor.
Take the time to find it, if you like exploring, that is. Pack your sea kayak with a couple of days’ worth of food and water, and check it out. The Stonington islands in Merchant Row are a wonder to explore, and because there are so many of them, it’s relatively protected. Steves is one of 11 public islands near Stonington that are on the Maine Island Trail. (If you join the Maine Island Trail Association for $45 per year you’ll have access to another 11 or so you could explore.)
A good breeze can pop up, like it did last Saturday night. And there may be some waves, but they’re not insurmountable if you have intermediate kayaking skills. The islands provide sheltered lees, so you basically hop from one to the next. And if you’re lucky, you can get a tailwind going out and one returning.
I got invited to go out with a guide class that Karen Francoeur of Castine Kayak Adventures was teaching on the water over the weekend. Deb Merrill, of Glenburn and Joe Slocum, of Castine, guides as well, came along for the ride too.
We gathered at 9:30 a.m. Saturday at Old Quarry Ocean Adventures in Web Cove just around the corner, so to speak, from Stonington. Owner Bill Baker has a launch spot for kayaks and a parking area. Parking fees are $5 per night and the launch fee is $5 per boat.
Six candidates were in this class, all with paddling experience, looking to learn the finer points of navigation, Leave No Trace ethics, setting up camp and preparing meals for a group of 10. All of us had a contribution for the “table” while the guide candidates each had a meal to prepare.
The first order of the day was to go over safety gear and camping gear checklists to be sure everybody had what they needed including enough fresh water for two days – for cooking, drinking and cleaning. Keep in mind camping on ocean islands usually means no fresh water is available. Not only does water take up valuable packing space in a kayak, it weighs 8 pounds per gallon.
In the confusion of packing the boats on shore I didn’t get a good idea of what folks were taking, but as the day progressed the things that came out of various hatches was eye opening. There was a large, circular fire pan, a folding chair, a hammock made of snow fence and scavenged ski poles, as well as the whole gamut of camping gear, tents, sleeping bags and cooking utensils. And then there was the Newman’s lemonade and several bottles of wine for the evening meal.
And what a banquet there was. Vegetarian fare was the dominant theme for lunches (fine cheeses, sprouts, baby spinach, bread and avocado dip), while a salmon and vegetable medley cooked in aluminum foil was the Saturday night fare – preceded, of course, by cheese and crackers and a fine (cheap, since it was my contribution) white merlot. Sunday breakfast featured brewed coffee and French toast, complete with a sweet, dark maple syrup.
We even got several chances to demonstrate proper cleanup practices using biodegradable soap and filtering the wash water to remove food scraps which were packed out.
After our pre-trip briefing that was shared by the guide candidates, we hit the water in time to be serenaded by a bagpiper who was playing for a wedding party dockside at Old Quarry Ocean Adventures. I think it’s the third or fourth time I’ve been in a kayak on the ocean when a bagpiper played for us. It’s amazing how far the tunes carry over the water. And what a sendoff!
Each of the guides-to-be helped navigate our trip to Grog and Bold Islands and eventually over to Hell’s Half Acre, one of the public islands on the Maine Island Trail. Lunch – guacamole, crackers, cheese, humus, cucumbers, sprouts and chocolate – was a welcome surprise. The stop also provided a chance to get in more class time, some navigation practice and before too long we were off.
Bare Island with its rocky nub provided the next waypoint on our paddle past Wreck and on to Steves. A lone seal, an eagle, an osprey and numerous gulls provide entertainment for he nature watchers among us.
At Steves we circled the island once looking for an appropriate place to land. The northeast side has a small shell beach accessible on the outgoing tide. We formed teams of four to heft the loaded boats up the granite incline, away from the water and on a most durable surface – a large flat outcrop.
Passing showers made setting up camp on the four campsites a bit of a challenge, but they passed and the resulting double rainbow made it all worthwhile. Of course the salmon and vegetables for dinner helped too.
For dessert we had a big helping of building winds that provided excitement. I mean they really, really built up. When I crawled into my little tent around 10:30 p.m. I was thinking I should have tied it to a tree! It blew all night and it blew into the morning. I was beginning to think the northeast blow was going to make returning a real challenge.
But guess what? By the time we finished our classes and lunch, the wind shifted to the southeast, just the direction we needed for pushing us home. And the waves in a couple of places provided some minor surfing opportunities and a challenge for the guides who struggled at times to keep the group together.
It was a good opportunity for brushing up on our guiding skills and a fine time to be on the water, despite it’s rather frigid temperatures. And our welcoming committee of one – a doe -on a summer home’s front lawn was the icing on the cake.
Jeff Strout’s column on outdoor recreation is published each Saturday. He can be reached at 990-8202 or by e-mail at jstrout@bangordailynews.net.
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