EASTPORT – Capt. Robert J. Peacock pilots ships through Head Harbour Passage, a controversial swath of Canadian waters that leads to this easternmost deep-water U.S. port.

He knows better than most what’s involved when the subject turns to the possibility of large tankers filled with liquefied natural gas navigating this waterway en route to proposed LNG facilities Down East. Peacock, 58, has guided 926 ships into and out of the main artery into the port at Estes Head.

At the port, ships are loaded with pulp from the nearby Domtar pulp and paper mill in Baileyville and sent around the world.

Until a few years ago, not many people were interested in the passage located between Campobello and Deer islands in New Brunswick, other than fishermen and recreational boaters.

But Peacock is vitally interested in the area – it’s how he makes his living. He piloted his first ship through the waterway in 1976 – years before liquefied natural gas was even an issue in the area.

For months now, the strip of water has been at the center of a roiling controversy as LNG developers seek to send 950-foot LNG tankers through there. The cargo has stirred a raging debate.

Those who favor LNG say each tanker is just another loaded ship heading to port.

Opponents say the ships’ cargo of supercooled fuel is a danger to nearby communities.

Two developers are working feverishly to make their projects a reality. Oklahoma-based Quoddy Bay LNG wants to build at Pleasant Point near Eastport. Washington, D.C.-based Downeast LNG is focusing on building its terminal farther away in Robbinston. The projects are still at the permitting stages.

Both developers have drawn lines in the water, saying they have the right to access to that area.

Canadian government officials have disagreed, arguing that Head Harbour Passage is located in their internal waters so they have the right to restrict access, especially to hazardous materials.

Their U.S. counterparts say Canada has agreed to something called the “right of innocent passage,” which allows ships to travel through foreign waters on their way to ports.

People who are paid a lot of money in Washington and Ottawa now are deciding that question.

In the meantime, Peacock and his counterpart pilot Gerald Morrison of Perry quietly pilot ships into and out of the port.

The Bangor Daily News recently traveled with Peacock aboard the Star Ismene, a Norwegian flagship owned by Star Lines, to see what is involved in navigating Head Harbour Passage.

The Star Ismene is a nearly 650-foot open-hatch bulk carrier. It is sleek, slicing through the water like a duck and turning responsively.

The captain, Gregorio B. Abenasa, 61, and the crew of 20 are from the Philippines. The vessel had just been in Baltimore where it had picked up cargo and was headed to Saint John, New Brunswick, after a stop in Eastport where it would pick up 20,600 metric tons of pulp destined for markets in Japan, China and Korea.

The pilot boat Medric II touched the Eastport dock shortly before 2:30 p.m. for the beginning of a 9-mile trip to rendezvous with the bulk carrier.

Three BDN staff members boarded the PVC-hulled boat captained by Ralph Dewitt. His crewman is his son James Smith. The boat takes Peacock to work. The first order of business is to slip into a red or orange life jacket.

It was a gorgeous day, the sun high, the water rippling. But not all travel in that area is on such gentle seas. At times the ocean is furious and mean; other times it’s cloaked in fog.

Weather and sea conditions play a major role in the judgment call made by the pilot, governed by soon-to-be approved U.S Coast Guard rules, on whether a ship can proceed or must wait.

“So far their working documents show that they have to have two miles visibility,” Peacock said of the LNG ships. “The other issue is [no passage] at night time. That will be at least for a year.” The Coast Guard will revisit that later, he added.

High seas also can stop a ship. “There are times when it’s blowing 25 knots and we can’t board a ship,” Peacock said. “They [LNG companies] know, and we’ve made it very clear to both companies that there are going to be times that there will be a week you’re not going to have a ship come in here because it’s going to be foggy. And during the winter months it’s going to be too windy for a week.” That’s why both companies are planning to build large storage tanks, he said.

Opponents also have expressed concern about right whales in the area. Peacock said he has never seen one in that area. “I’ve seen a lot of finbacks, minkes. I’ve seen one white beluga – he comes every four or five years. He is really friendly. He comes around the boat; you can reach out and scratch him. It’s got to have been trained somewhere and got away,” he said.

The plan was for us to pick up the ship just beyond East Quoddy Head Lighthouse on Campobello Island.

From there we would travel through Head Harbour Passage where porpoises and seals could be seen. Our trip would end near the Estes Head port.

If we had been on an LNG tanker, we would have continued two miles farther on, turning right at Cherry Islet and traveling the Western Passage to Pleasant Point or another seven miles to Robbinston. “This is the only big turn and from here you can see right to the Robbinston site,” Peacock said. “So it is a straight shot there.”

Peacock and his crew left the downtown Fisherman’s Wharf around 2:30 p.m. and headed toward the Star Ismene. Just after 3 p.m. the Medric II pulled alongside, and, with ship and boat moving, it was a long climb up a hemp rope and wooden-rung ladder to the pilot’s entrance, a hole in the side of the ship. Then it was up a metal ladder and a long run through beige-colored hallways to stairs that went up and up and up, finally reaching the bridge some 140 feet above the water.

The ship’s captain was there, along with a helmsman and two other crew members. There was a 180-degree view of the bay and nearby land. Peacock readied himself to take over. Maine law requires local pilots to be on board to steer a ship safely into port.

The captain and crew were hospitable. They spoke English, a little broken, but clearly understandable. They offered cold bottled water and cupcakes. The captain said his tour of duty was for six months, the crew’s for nine months.

Then it was time to get down to business. There was a safety check – engine and steering were working fine.

Time to head to port. “The key to all of this is cooperation,” Peacock said, studying his computer.

“Hard to starboard,” Peacock ordered the helmsman.

“Hard to starboard,” the helmsman repeated.

At 4:32 p.m. East Quoddy Head was to our left. It looked like a miniature lighthouse from the lofty vantage point of the ship’s bridge.

Four minutes later the ship sailed past Black Rock.

As the minutes clicked by, there was absolute silence on the bridge.

At 5:06 p.m. the ship sailed past Cherry Islet. Peacock had hoped to tie up at Estes Head, but there was a ship in port.

He pointed to a place on the computer screen and told the officer on the bridge he was going to anchor there. The path of the ship could be tracked on the computer screen. The ship inched forward.

“2-3-0,” he told the helmsman.

“2-3-0,” the helmsman responded.

The ferry that travels between Campobello and Deer islands passed behind the ship. “We didn’t interfere with him at all,” the pilot said.

Minutes ticked by. The ship continued to inch forward. “Slow ahead,” Peacock said.

“Slow ahead,” the helmsman repeated. The whole time Peacock was watching the direction and speed of the tide. “She’s screeching,” he said.

“2-1-0,” the pilot ordered.

“2-1-0,” the helmsman repeated.

“Salamat [Thank you],” Peacock said.

At 5:20 p.m. the ship was six-tenths of a mile to anchorage. “Dead slow ahead,” he said.

This time the captain, speaking to the engine room, repeated Peacock’s order into a two-way radio.

After a little more maneuvering, Peacock said, “Stop thrusters.” The ship vibrated.

It was 5:44 p.m. Peacock ordered the captain to drop anchor. “I want that anchor to go right down in that hole,” he said pointing at the computer screen. There was more than 70 feet of water below us even at low tide.

Then it was time to leave the ship. There were handshakes all around. Peacock would be back at 8 p.m. He needed to finish the job. The other ship in port was due to leave and the Star Ismene would tie up at Estes Head.

The run down the long stairs was fast, the trip back through the long hallways quick. Then it was out through the hole in the side of the ship and onto the swaying ladder. Back on board the Medric II, it was a quick turnaround and back to the downtown port.

The gigantic Star Ismene was soon a much smaller yet impressive silhouette a mile distant on the bay.