Superior deer mounts start with field care Pre-hunt preparation essential

Over the past couple of decades, moose, Canada geese and wild turkey seasons have truly allowed Pine Tree sportsmen to expand their hunting horizons. Not only are these three great game animals spread throughout the state, but each boasts at least two individual seasons, allowing outdoorsmen to spend more time afield throughout the year. Oddly enough, despite the expanded opportunities this trio of challenging quarries provides, year in and year out a bragging-size whitetail buck remains the most desirable trophy for most regional hunters.

There’s no question that a few whitetail wallhangers are taken through sheer luck, but most successful big-deer gunners will tell you there’s a lot of preseason scouting, dedication, desire and intense effort involved in tagging a big-racked buck. And there’s likely a story as well; some funny, a few sad, and others that are enlightening, bewildering and a handful of eventful outings that are almost unbelievable. For young and old whitetail enthusiasts alike, significant as the hunt and the shoot are, it’s the memories that last a lifetime. That’s why more and more deer hunters every year are turning to skilled taxidermists to help them preserve those special moments with a natural, eye-catching, breathtaking replica of that special whitetail.

Since the advent of youth day hunting, a lot of families make sure their young Nimrod’s first deer is mounted to commemorate the notable accomplishment. Most don’t have huge antlers, there are a lot of does and quite a few small bucks, but size is of little consequence for a boy’s or girl’s very first whitetail. Years later, regardless of size, that premier deer mount will help family relive that eventful outing, and no matter how many whitetails are shot after that, or how large they are, there’s still only one first deer. This is the reason that regardless of whether it’s a youngster’s first deer or a veteran hunter’s largest buck, the right taxidermist and proper field care are essential to yield the best mounted likeness.

Artistry first

To the uninformed and unconcerned, taxidermy is just another business, but to a true outdoorsman, a person who knows the woods and understands and reveres wildlife, an accomplished taxidermist is really an artist. When done with the utmost talent, a whitetail reproduction will seem almost alive; the eyes seem to watch you and an observer almost expects the deer to blow at him, then turn and bound away. That’s the effect a great deer mount should possess, and the first step is to locate an experienced taxidermist to achieve this goal.

Depending on location, many taxidermists develop specialties based on the prevalent game species hunted or fished for in their general region. Some shops specialize in upland game birds and waterfowl, others work exclusively with fish, freshwater species, salt water or both, and still others lend their expertise to big-game animals. Prospective clients need to get out and visit several studios, look over displayed deer mounts for workmanship, variety of poses, and realism. Ask questions, lots of them, and above all talk price and current turnaround time for your particular selection. Be forewarned, ability, artistry, and experience don’t come cheap.

Maine taxidermists build clientele, and repeat business, by welcoming sportsmen into their shops to observe displayed animals and ask questions; take full advantage of this during the offseason. I know it seems like putting the cart before the deer, so to speak, but rushing into a selection after a deer is downed seldom leads to a good outcome. Each taxidermist has a flair, and some individuals excel, with certain poses, as well as specific talents to finish off ears, noses, eyes and muzzles. Research will lead you to your personal favorite, and then the final trophy will be delightful rather than a disappointment.

Big bang theory

Large-caliber rifles and shotguns with slugs, or even buckshot, are not beneficial to hunters seeking a trophy to be mounted. They leave large holes that can be difficult for even the most experienced taxidermist to cover up. Rifle calibers such as .270, .30-06 or .308 with spire-point ammo rather than round-nose are sufficient to do the job without undue damage to the hide. Do not shoot a trophy buck in the head, neck or even the forward shoulder; if possible, always go for the heart/lung region behind the front leg. Head and neck shots can cause irreparable damage, and occasionally the worst-case scenario occurs and an antler’s tine is broken or an entire side is shot from the deer. Some damage can be hidden by using certain poses, an accomplished taxidermist can cover up most wounds, but there’s a point where the realism of the mount will be affected, so avoid the hassle and aim accurately.

Once the deer is down, place your tag around an antler or leg first, and then set about cleaning the animal. Limit your efforts to removing the viscera and avoid any cutting near the chest, neck or head. Drag the deer from the woods using the antlers as hand holds, keeping the head elevated and free from rubbing on the ground or from tree damage. Never drag against the grain of the fur and never use a rope around the neck to drag. A wide strap is acceptable and should be attached around the front legs and body, if not the antlers.

During vehicle transport, keep tie-down straps away from the head and shoulders, but secure the animal tightly to prevent rubbing during travel over rough, bumpy roads. If a deer must be hung at camp or at home before it can be delivered to the taxidermist, tie off to the antlers or hind legs. Hanging from the neck will deform that area and often leave marks and damage the hair. Avoid leaving a deer on the ground for long periods; birds, rodents and scavengers can damage the cape area (the head, neck and front shoulder hide which ends behind the front legs) and sometimes even the antlers.

Take plenty of photos as soon as possible, right in the field if a camera is available; if not, then as soon as the deer is back at camp or home. Make sure there are closeups of the head and horns in good lighting. While these pictures will be great to show friends later when it’s time to enjoy a bit of bragging, another purpose is to allow the taxidermist to ascertain features that may help render a more realistic reproduction. It’s natural to want to show a trophy deer to friends and neighbors, and perhaps to hang the buck at the house for a few days to help age the meat a bit before cutting it up for the freezer, but every day leads to natural breakdown in the whitetail’s body that while good for aging meat is detrimental to the quality of a finished mount. Getting a deer to the taxidermist in hours, not days, will yield a better finished product.

Cut carefully

Most quality taxidermists prefer to skin deer heads themselves at their shops, where they have the space, tools and time to perform a precise job. Generally this chore is included in the price of the final mount, but sportsmen need to verify this service and pricing on their initial visit. Some taxidermists will actually quarter the deer during the skinning process so the sportsman can take the meat directly to the butcher or home for the final processing. A handful of taxidermists actually cut and wrap meat for the freezer for an additional fee, but with business booming at this time of year, this service is becoming scarce.

Hunters who choose to cape out their own deer, either by choice or necessity, must make every effort to execute a precise job if the resulting mount is to be exemplary. Talk in detail to your taxidermist regarding this procedure and follow his directions to the letter. Having the correct cutlery and sharpening tools at hand is of primary importance, and never rush the job. Rest for a few minutes if hands become tired or cramped or if you even begin to lose focus on the close, precise skinning work. Plenty of light is essential and avoid shadows on the work site.

Some taxidermists prefer extra skin in the shoulder area when the caping is performed using the traditional Y-cut. Others are adamant about using a tube-style skinning method where the hide has no cuts other than around the rear of the shoulders. Have your selected mount person explain in detail, and even demonstrate if possible, the correct technique, especially if you’re a rookie at this task.

Any experienced hunter will confirm that it’s much simpler to skin out a warm carcass than a cold, stiff one, so if at all possible, do the caping within two to four hours of dispatching the deer. If for some reason a downed deer isn’t located for several hours, or must be left overnight, carry the animal out rather than dragging it because the skin is more susceptible to damage due to the stiffening and cooling process. Load it on an ATV if possible or use a person-powered wheeled deer carrier when available. Avoid any knife cuts near the head, neck, throat and forward shoulder regions and use paper towels or cloth rags soaked in water to wipe away any blood from the nose, mouth and cape hair.

Once the skinning chore is completed, fold the hide section in on itself but never around the head, and transport it to the taxidermist within a day. Do not treat the hide with any preservative, although it may be refrigerated overnight. If it’s not possible to deliver the head and hide within 24 hours, they may be placed in plastic bags and frozen. When the time comes to deliver the deer, be sure not to drop or bump the frozen head as damage to the delicate nose, lips and eyes may result. Placing the entire head and cape in a large, rigid cooler protects and keeps it frozen during transport, and be sure to advise the taxidermist upon arrival that the parts were and are frozen. At that point it’s time to sign wild game transfer papers and a contract, issue a down payment and leave your prize in the capable hands of an expert.

Then it’s time to sit back impatiently and wait, often six months to a year, for the wild-game artisan of your choice to render a realistic and naturally posed head or shoulder mount of your trophy. It’s kind of like waiting for your prize pointer or retriever to have a litter of pups, prolonged and trying but worth every lingering second of delay. Remember, precision work requires patience! After all, considering all the years you waited to bag that first deer or tag that biggest buck, what’s a few more months for a recreated lifetime of memories?

Outdoor feature writer Bill Graves can be reached via e-mail at bgravesoutdoors@ainop.com