Last year’s parsnips sweet in spring stew

Perhaps you have dug your parsnips, or have seen fresh ones at the farmers or vegetable markets, or were lucky enough to have a neighbor give you a few. I think of them as both the last thing and the first thing out of the garden. Last because we let some of ours winter over in the ground, heavily mulched and so they are the last thing we harvest from the year before, and first because they are the first new vegetable we can eat in the spring.

They benefit terrifically from being left in the ground, truly sweet when they’re dug up. There’s little reason to harvest them in the fall, except maybe that you need something to eat or maybe you like earthy parsnips instead of sweet ones, or perhaps you are moving to new property and want to take your parsnips with you.

It is practically a ritual with us to eat parsnip stew on the day we dig them although stew is only one of several good things to make with them. Every time I make it I am reminded of chowder. In fact, to arrive at a decent parsnip stew, veteran chowder makers out there might just want to substitute parsnips for whatever amount of fish they customarily use. Though I usually make parsnip stew with salt pork or a couple of pieces of bacon, I have also made a vegetarian version with the substitution of butter, olive or other vegetable oil.

You can make a deluxe version by using heavy cream but I think milk is fine. Half-and-half, light cream and evaporated milk are also suitable. The proportion of parsnips to potatoes is variable; I like an even amount myself. If you decide to measure it in cups, remember to round it up to the nearest whole vegetable.

If you make this stew very thick, you can consider using it as a vegetable side dish. If it is thin, serve it as you would soup or stew with a salad and bread.

Parsnip Stew

Serves 3-4.

3 slices bacon or 1-inch square of salt pork, diced small (or 2 tablespoons

vegetable oil or butter)

1 medium onion, chopped

4 medium potatoes, peeled and sliced

5 to 6 medium parsnips, peeled and sliced

Salt and pepper to taste

Water

Milk or cream

Over medium heat, fry the bacon or salt pork until the fat runs. Remove 2 tablespoons or more and add the chopped onion to the fat. You may choose to remove the bits of bacon or salt pork to use as garnish, or incorporate them in the stew. Cook the onions until they are slightly softened, about five minutes. Add a layer of potatoes alternately with a layer of parsnips. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper on each layer. Pour in water just enough to see it through the vegetables. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, and let simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Add the milk or cream and let it get hot through. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.