During the formative years of my sporting adventures, especially when I was in my 20s and 30s, preparation generally took a backseat to impulsiveness. On a fairly regular basis, at least once a year, a fishing trip or water-oriented hunt would be delayed, cut short, or even postponed due to a problem with a boat, motor or trailer. Generally it was due to neglect, oversight or just plain headlong haste of youth; sometimes my own, occasionally a friend.

I’ve launched without putting the plug in the boat, and only noticed it when the water began to splash around my sneakers. More than once I’ve arrived at a lake or pond far back in the woods with no paddles for the canoe or no gas tank for the outboard motor. When my boat trailer experienced a flat tire the spare was too slack to use and when the pull cord to start the outboard broke while we were at the far end of the lake we paddled back for lack of a replacement rope.

There have also been several more embarrassing and sometimes painful boating faux-pas endured when spur-of-the-moment opportunities took precedence over of a few minutes extra time and preparation. But I’ve learned… Finally! My pride and my body each suffered greatly from some of those foolish exploits. Over the last decade or two I’ve developed a checklist, and nowadays before any of my boats, canoes, motors, or trailers hit the road or the water they are thoroughly checked over. As with any piece of outdoor gear, from rods to rifles and binoculars to bows, unavoidable malfunctions occur, but they are far less likely after a preseason marine checkup.

Trailer tinkering

Boat trailers are in and out of the water on a regular basis, and despite being built to withstand this abuse, certain features take a beating. This is especially true if the unit is frequently immersed in salt water for launching and reloading. Bulbs, wiring and connectors are very prone to failure and must be checked over each spring to assure safe over-road hauling.

One of the best and simplest methods of preserving bulbs is to unplug the electrical connector between the boat and vehicle before backing into the water. When this isn’t done, hot bulbs and filaments blow out upon submerging in cold water and any bare wire or exposed connectors may short out and blow a fuse. Signal and running lamp bulbs are simple to replace, as are clear and red plastic light housings, but tracing out wiring problems in the interior trailer frame is often time consuming and frustrating.

Most replacement bulbs, lamp housings and even full wiring kits can be purchased at local auto parts stores, Wal-Mart and Kmart. Don’t wait until the last minute to do light repairs and don’t ignore them, it could result in a traffic stop leading to warning or ticket. Since most anglers and hunters tend to travel before dawn and after dusk, running lights an blinkers on boat trailers are crucial.

Once trailer ball hitches are initially adjusted they seldom change from year to year, but it never hurts to check them for a solid clamp-down grip. A bit of lubrication, spray-on liquid or dry graphite around the locking latch assures smooth closure after sitting dormant all winter. Make sure you have a clevis pin or a locking style latch pin to secure the ball-hitch lever in the closed position once clamped in place. Last, but certainly of great importance, check the integrity of the safety chins just in case the trailer latch or ball hitch on the truck fails.

After being stored all winter, especially in an unheated building on a cement floor, it’s not uncommon for trailer tires to be slack or even flat. Use a pressure gauge to assure both road tires as well as the spare are optimally inflated before moving the outfit. Just this past week it cost me an extra round trip because I didn’t bring an air tank to the storage building and one of my tires was pancake flat. Compact, portable air compressors that operate from the vehicle’s cigarette lighter plug-in are a great asset anytime you’re hauling a trailer, and always have a trusty spare as well as a lug wrench that fits boat tire nuts.

Wheel bearings should be checked and possibly replaced or at least repacked with grease every year on boat trailers that are immersed in salt water frequently. Fresh water trailers can often go two to three years depending on miles traveled and number of launches. If grease packed around the bearings displays any gray or cream coloration it indicates a water leak into the usually glossy black grease and work needs to be done.

After the boat is launched for that first outing, take a few minutes after parking the truck and trailer to inspect the rollers or bunks that support and help load and unload the watercraft. Assure the angles and positions are correctly aligned and then tighten any loose bolts. Take note of any worn rollers and plan on replacing them on the next trip when the boat is off the trailer. Also look over the padding on the bunks that prevent rub and wear to the paint and metal of the boat exterior during transport, and replace where necessary. A squirt of WD40, silicone, or dry graphite on the inner shaft will help rollers move smoothly and quietly during launching and loading.

Boat check

Boat length will determine just how many features are present that need to be inspected before launch time each spring. Twelve- to 16-foot V-hulls and jon boats, as well s most canoes will have fewer working parts and things to go wrong than an 18- to 20-foot watercraft. I start off by making sure my drain plug still fits tightly, and if there’s any play once its seated I replace it with new one. During road travel and when the boat is parked I always leave the plug out, but I attach a foot or so of heavy monofilament to the cap end and tie the other end to the boat so the plug can’t be lost. Hard lessons have taught me to always carry a spare drain plug in one of the boat’s storage compartments.

Batteries need to be fully charged, posts free of corrosion, and wiring hookups firmly crimped and unfrayed. Once power is hooked up it’s time to try out the tilt and trim controls of the motor, cycle the bilge pump and test the running lights. If the boat has a live well the tank should be filled and the aerator fired up for a few minutes. In case one or more instruments fail, the first place I check is the fuse box, and I always carry an extra package of fuses in the boat.

When boats have pedestal , screw-in, or clamp-on seats it’s good to make sure bumpy roads or rough water travel haven’t loosened any screws or bolts securing the seats, a scenario that might lead to a sportsman being dumped on the deck.

Every watercraft should carry a full complement of high quality floatation vests, the type that keeps even an unconscious victim’s head out of the water. Also on board should be at least one floating throw cushion and a long length of rope. Larger boats are required to carry signal devices such as an air horn or flares, and also a fire extinguisher. Dry powder and some foam extinguishers are so compact and effective even smaller watercraft with gas motors should carry one.

Finally, look over the anchor and attached rope to be certain all knots are solid and the line isn’t frayed. Every boat and canoe should carry an extra paddle or two, and I go a step further and supplement my extra paddles with an 18-foot long fiberglass push pole. I don’t relish the thought of trying to paddle or push my 20-foot Lund Alaskan very far, but it can be done and is far better than just floating away.

Motor maintenance

I never have been much of a mechanic, but I am smart enough to hunt and fish with friends who are handy with machinery. I also am acquainted with some top-rate 2- and 4-cycle outboard engine repairmen, and that’s where I head if my motor problems extend beyond mere basics. It’s been my experience that well meaning amateur mechanics often do more harm than good, so consult a professional when your motor is really out of whack.

For motors that start with a hand-pull rope, carry an extra pull cord and handle because sooner or later at the most inconvenient time a rope will break. It’s always good to check over the attached pull cord before the season begins and replace it then if wear is questionable. I advise storing an extra pull rope on board even if you run an electric start motor because there might be power failure.

Extra spark plugs, a plug wrench, a few basic tools and can of starter fluid stored in a waterproof bag will come in handy sooner or later. Just a few years ago I also began carrying a wire cutting and stripping tool, electrical tape, end clamps and a few feet of extra wire. For old style motors that use a pin instead of a clutch on propeller mounts, carry a spare pin. If you are going on big water or a long distance off shore, carry a second propeller.

Fresh gas and a precise oil/gas mix is essential for top rate 2-cycle engine performance, especially for trolling at very slow speeds. Check over portable gas tanks to assure tight connections and proper air bleed to feed fuel, and then go over the gas hose and pressure bulb to assure there are no gas or air leaks. Finally, using a set of motor muffs attached to a hose or placing the motor in a barrel full of water, start and run the engine at home for at least 10 minutes at various speeds. That’s the time to pinpoint problems, not once you’re out on the water. By the way, don’t forget to register your boat and trailer, it’s easy to forget and suddenly it’s time for a weekend outing and the town office is closed.

Depending on boat, motor and trailer size and type, all of the checks I’ve mentioned can be accomplished in 30 to 60 minutes. Barring major malfunctions, most problems are an easy fix and always far simpler on land and near a parts store than when afloat. It may seem like a pain, but listen to the voice of experience when I tell you a little time invested now is far better than a shortened or cancelled trip. Get out early and often, motor safely, and remember that life jackets aren’t art, they re clothing,- don’t just look at them, wear them!

bgravesoutdoors@ainop.com