Friends Chris Lander of Orrington and BDN outdoor columnist John Holyoke spent several years trying to convince me to accompany them on a fishing trip to northeastern Quebec.
Finally, we synchronized our schedules and I committed to last month’s lengthy (18-hour) jaunt to Lac Barbel in the former mining town of Gagnon.
After having camped out on the same spot during previous visits to the area, Tim Lander of Eddington, one of Chris’ older brothers, obtained a lease and built a cabin on the scenic shores of Barbel.
That has blazed the trail for Tim Lander’s family members, friends, and acquaintances to enjoy fishing some of Quebec’s most picturesque rivers and lakes. Because of the diversity of the waters, we had to be prepared to hook onto brook trout, northern pike, salmon, lake trout, or whitefish.
Not knowing was half the fun.
In the simplest terms, the trip was about fishing.
Because of the remoteness of the area, we usually had gorgeous (and productive) spots all to ourselves. Reaching many of those areas required bouncing along gravel roads, raking the vehicles through alder trees, and negotiating bushes, rocks, and streams on foot.
Then there were the black flies, which were large and numerous. Fortunately, breezy conditions and a $1.47 Wal-Mart mosquito head net often helped keep them at bay.
I think we caught at least one fish at almost every spot we wet a line, and some produced beautiful brook trout.
There was one incident on our final day in Quebec where a French-speaking fisherman rudely barged down into our already cozy group of four and further congested a tight fishing area at the base of a small set of rapids.
He caught several brook trout (and inexplicably kept every one). While raising our ire, it didn’t to diminish the productiveness of our efforts.
John did his best to carry the banner for dedicated fishermen everywhere. He fished almost exclusively with his fly rod, even while we spincasters were pulling in more fish.
While I don’t have much patience (and no skills) for fly fishing, John showed me the basics and helped me learn to get a fly somewhere in the vicinity of some of the numerous rises we encountered.
Perhaps the most rewarding moment of the trip for me was when I actually caught a small brookie while flycasting. It has inspired me to consider doing more fly fishing in the future.
In retrospect, the fishing was only part of the experience.
When you spend eight straight days in the company of five other guys, the most important skills needed are communication, cooperation, and a sense of humor.
Life at Timbukto Lodge, as Tim Lander has dubbed his cozy camp, was simple yet sensational.
The six of us who shared the building – the group also included Bill Lander Jr. of Green Lake, the eldest of the Lander brothers, and Dale McDonald of Clifton – all contributed to the success of the operation.
We arrived well-stocked with food for the week and all of us took turns cooking, doing the dishes, and cleaning up. That spirit of cooperation and unselfishness was a hallmark of the outing.
Among the tastiest meals we devoured were Chris’ perfectly barbecued ribeye steaks, the pork loin Tim cooked on the grill, and the brook trout feed fried to perfection by Dale.
We also helped work off our rent by doing a bit of yard work, clipping and hauling off the burgeoning alders that had grown up near the camp. Keeping the surrounding area clear takes on increasing importance in Quebec, where forest fires sparked by lightning strikes routinely lay waste to thousands of acres of forest.
For me, the best part of the whole trip was the delightful company of the Tibukto crew.
These guys have a collection of fishing and hunting stories rivaling those of the most avid and experienced outdoorsmen. Tim was, hands down, the funniest guy in the group.
He delighted in recounting his many exploits in Quebec and Labrador.
I hope I contributed enough to the cause during our stay to receive a return invitation to Timbukto in the future.
Now that I know the drill, I’ll be much better prepared to help make the expedition successful.
With Tim Lander ever on the prowl, I know there are plenty of pristine fishing spots left to be explored and many more stories to be shared in and around Lac Barbel.
Pete Warner can be reached at 990-8240, 1-800-310-8600 or pwarner@bangordailynews.net
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